With the freescale boards they come with a VGA connection and you SHOULD be able to add a standard touch screen that you would use on any other PC. I have both the older single core and the newer quad core Freescale boards and will be trying to get them working with the screens. If you get the Sabre Lite board from Boundry Devices they have 2 7" screens available. One is resistant for $175 and the other is capacitive for $225. I have one with the capacitive screen. I hope to have the latest Linux up and running on both of these boards this week. The Older Freescale board that is single core can be had for $149. Both of the Freescale boards have features you won't find on the other boards if you want to use them. The Freescale boards are development boards used to develop things such as tablets or other smart devices where as pandaboards are intended more for educational purposes. The freescale boards can use VGA, HDMI or LVDS as their inputs. They use I2C for the touch screens in most cases. I have one of the 7" touch screens from mo-so-co that I will be trying to get the touch screen working with USB but I have been told the eGalax drivers don't work properly in Linux although the touch screen came with a driver for my version of linux which I have to compile into the kernel. (Learning curve...)
Thanks redheadedrod for all the additional info, it is hard to keep track of all the new boards. I guess for my build anything other then LVDS/display expansion connection (as with the pandaboard) is not an ideal solution. It is one more layer of abstraction that is unnecessary. The panels listed on Boundry Devices are perfect for the i.MX6 boards, worth keeping an eye on.
Revival, ny news here, find this very interesting...
The project is not dead, even though I have not posted any updates lately..... I have been working on the second generation. As I mentioned a while ago I was planning to come up with my own front panel because I wanted to use a rotary knob for volume control. I just didn't like the small buttons for volume on my first build. In addition I have decided to go with a fully open source board: A13-OLinuXino-WIFI (this is the same board mentioned by SapporoGuy a few posts back). After all this is the open source thread. Besides that, this board has a lot of nice add on boards readily available (GPS, Realtime clock, IO and a lot more). But the most imported advantage over the Pandaboard is that it has 4GB of NAND flash. That way I don't have to deal with SD cards anymore.
Here is the cool stuff:
and button pcb board
both have to be cleaned up a bit but I will send them off in a few days and report back once I get them back.
Now, the biggest struggle was the power supply. I wanted it to be as close as possible to an OEM approach. That means I want to have power to it only if the ignition is on. Then while cranking it is not supposed to go off (that what most OEMs do). And I did not want to use a micro controller (too expensive and too much work). I ended up selecting a simple buck converter with a MP2307 (you can get those modules for $2 on ebay and they go up to 4A) and a couple of LM555 timers. By using the timers I ensure that it stays on while cranking but it would shutdown when the car is turned of. The shutdown sequence, however, can be canceled by the user. I am still working on that pcb board. I will post updates as I go along.
Nice work, keep us posted...
small update on the housing part... I placed the order for the screen housing and I should get them in a week.
Here are a few pics on how the screen assembly is going to look with buttons
It seems the decision to go with the A13 OLinuXino will make my power supply design a bit easier (still waiting on the buck converter). Since the OLinuXino has a power management chip (AXP209) I can use it to handle power and battery charging. This in turn will allow me to run the computer via an internal battery when the car is off. If I read the tech specs correctly it will not power the LCD but at least the board can be kept running (instant on without draining the car battery). It also enables me to handle the shutdown sequence a bit nicer. The only problem with the board is that the information is hard to come by so it is quite tedious to move forward but I think it is worth the effort.
Just a little over a week and I got my housing back. The 3D printing result is amazing... without any modification both part fit together perfectly. Even the front and back panel connection mechanism worked as planned.
Here are the unpainted and painted results
I know the second one is a bit dark. I'll add some more once I try it out in the car. In the meantime I am waiting for the button pcb board. According to batchpcb it should take anywhere from 12-20 days, so end of April should be possible. I will post updates as I move forward on this.
Nice job on the screen! Who did the printing?
Printing was done by sculpteo. I am very happy with the result and it was extremely fast.
Awesome, I want a 3D printer....