Thread: What hardware are you using for OM?

Well, I am getting itchy again. What can I do to this project while I wait for the new year.

I've decided that I also need to run 12V from the computer PSU, and use it to power the VGA. I do notice a little noise on the VGA as it is powered direct from the vehicle. And maybe this will also make the display a little crisper (if not by much). This is the 12V plug you see above in the storage bin.

Since I have made the previous power run using CAT5E cable, I have spare conductors for this job. The current 12V plug will remain intact. I will dig out a proper sized coaxial plug from my parts bin, attach to one end of the CAT5 cable and connect the other end at the PSU. This will leave me the existing cord for the future should I need to change out the display.

This won't take too long but should help take the itch off for a little longer.

To be continued, eventually......

Why, oh WHY are you using cat5 for any sort of Power? Please.. just.. don't do that...

and if you do at least follow the spec:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet

Originally Posted by justchat_1

and if you do at least follow the spec:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet

PoE has the advantage of higher voltage (50V), so the .5A limit on 24AWG wire can still supply up to 25W. At 12V, you're looking at losing a LOT of that power carrying capability (6W max). Seriously, automotive 14AWG wire is dirt cheap... use it.

Originally Posted by CraziFuzzy

PoE has the advantage of higher voltage (50V), so the .5A limit on 24AWG wire can still supply up to 25W. At 12V, you're looking at losing a LOT of that power carrying capability (6W max). Seriously, automotive 14AWG wire is dirt cheap... use it.

+1

if cost is the issue, all you need is stranded wire--i tend to use stranded speaker wire for most of my stuff--every home improvement store i have been in sells some version of it.. you porbably don't even need 14 ga. even 16ga should be fine.

Yikes! Again I bow to superior knowledge.

I knew the wire gauge was small, and solid conductor is not recommended. It's what I had and did it anyway. But I respect the collective intelligence here and I will pick up a few feet of better wire. You have convinced me to do a proper application sooner rather than later (which is probably a smart thing). I was relying on the PSU to shut down in the even of a short.

I should have looked it up, but I was sure the wire would safely carry 2A even though the spec might say 0.5A but I "usually" over design.

Thanks folks.

John

Alright, the list of future work is building:

• Ignition override switch to keep PC alive when car is off (when desired)
• Run a new heavier main power wire to the trunk (expanded below)
• Run three more USB extensions to the center console
• Run two new VGA extensions for the headrest monitors
• Change the CAT5 wire used to power hubs into something more responsible
• Improve how the board which the hardware is on is mounted
• Tidy up the wiring a bit more
• Install 2 headrest monitors
• Install 2 USB VGA adapters
• Install 2 USB audio adapters

I like the idea of the override switch. While I can put my remote starter into pitstop mode, thats just for a few minutes. If I'm somewhere for a while this switch might be handy.

I have a trailer light adapter box that seemed to run down my battery. I discovered this the other day when I needed to bring home a small trailer + ATV. This was the first time I needed it and the fuse feeding it was blown. The draining started when I put a new fuse in. Eventually the new fuse blew. I cut the line and used the main power feed I had run to the trunk. So I should beef up the capacity of that feed. I think the line the previous owners ran from the battery, under the car, and up through the trunk floor is probably leaking to ground just enough to not blow the fuse right away.

I need a dedicated USB run for each hub. As mentioned earlier, it seems that self-powered doesn't work too well if the hubs are daisychained. So one of the new runs will be for the added hub. Also, I will use dedicated runs for the audio adapters for each rear seat setup. I will run 2 additional VGA extensions direct from the PC for the monitors.

It is unanimous that the CAT5 cable for the USB hub power was kind of a dumb move, so I will replace that. I will run a new 5V line and a new 12V to provide cleaner power to my in-dash monitor.

The board to which my PC, Amp and HD Radio are mounted is fine in itself, but I want to better mount it. That will also entail re-bundling the wiring, especially since I am adding more. I may add a couple of terminal blocks and a fuse block (to replace the here-and-there fusing) to further neaten things up.

And then finally obtain and install the additional hardware needed to add the two rear zones.

Whew! I wish it was spring already (or I had the use of a garage)

John

Originally Posted by jmullan99

Alright, the list of future work is building:

• Ignition override switch to keep PC alive when car is off (when desired)
• Run a new heavier main power wire to the trunk (expanded below)
• Run ONE more USB extensions to the center console
• Run two new VGA extensions for the headrest monitors
• Change the CAT5 wire used to power hubs into something more responsible
• Improve how the board which the hardware is on is mounted
• Tidy up the wiring a bit more
• Install 2 headrest monitors
• Install 2 USB VGA adapters
• Install 2 USB audio adapters

It is unanimous that the CAT5 cable for the USB hub power was kind of a dumb move, so I will replace that. I will run a new 5V line and a new 12V to provide cleaner power to my in-dash monitor.

John

I had a bit of spare time, and it's above freezing today, so I took care of running better power wires (5V and 12V) to the center console. 16ga speaker wire. Plenty to handle the current demands (minimal), flexible, and good enough for the car environment. Unfortunately the short leads I direct-soldered into each hub is still 22ga from the CAT5 but that is a future change. And I'm sure the monitor will thank me for the cleaner power supplied from the PSU.

I also ran a microphone for the pending speech control feature of OM.

I should have gone out and bought a USB extension while I was working on it, but it's Sunday and the store didn't open until 11AM. No worries, leave it for another day.

I've decided I only need one more USB run to the console. I will run the future audio adapters from the hub inside the console. At least to start. And will still run 2 VGA extensions for the pending headrest monitors. I decided to try and cut down on the cable runs from trunk to console as it's starting to get crowed in there!


John

Yup. Me again.

My PSU is an M2ATX clone. Works fine. But I noticed it does not completely cut power, my USB hubs LEDs stay on. I draw power from a spare hard drive power plug. The 5V line is active. I assume that this is for when SLEEP is used instead of HIBERNATE although I would have thought hard drive plugs would unpowered after a hard off. Can anyone confirm this?

The "off" current consumption is about 3ma. Not unreasonable. The whole reason I tracked this down is since it got cold ( -10C ) my battery has been dead a couple mornings in a row now. So I wanted to verify none of my fiddling caused a drain on the battery.

Further to this, now my remote starter (after charging battery) does not function either. When installed I soldered everything up nice and tight. So I don't really think it developed a bad connection. It also draws about 3ma at idle. It is "alive" as the Valet / Diagnostic LED lights when it should. Its a two-way remote, so it will tell me when I put it in Valet mode. But it ignores door lock and start/stop signals. I don't know if I toasted it in any way and don't know how to tell.

I am going to replace the battery right away. But several little things all happening at once can make a person run in circles.

Any input from others would be delightful.

Cheers,
John.