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Thread: Help with Windows 7 power settings

  1. #21
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    10 hours wont drain your battery?

    why 10?
    '93 Toyota Celica - First Car PC install
    Current System Specs:
    ZOTAC GF8200-C-E AM2+ GF8200
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+
    1 GB DDR2 667
    LITE-ON DL-8ATS Slot-Load
    750 GB Seagate SATA HDD
    250W PSU
    19" Hyundai Monitor

  2. #22
    Mod - iPad Forums RipplingHurst's Avatar
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    I don't know! But it would be nice to have the option. Do you think it will? I once left one powered USB hub (for the GPS) on for 3 days, Friday to Monday, the car started (barely). That's your 5v 500mA...how much does the RAM needs? No clue.

    Why 10? That's how long the car stays parked everyday at work.

  3. #23
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    I would think it would drain your batter after 10 hours for sure. S3 mode powers only the RAM correct? if so, I read somewhere that a stick of ram consumes ~10W and I think that the avg stick of ram runs at 1.8V so that would calculate to about 5.5A... after 10 hours it'll have consumed 55A so depending on the size of your battery and the amount needed to start your car, I'm pretty sure it wouldn't happen. I'm not sure of my math tho.
    '93 Toyota Celica - First Car PC install
    Current System Specs:
    ZOTAC GF8200-C-E AM2+ GF8200
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+
    1 GB DDR2 667
    LITE-ON DL-8ATS Slot-Load
    750 GB Seagate SATA HDD
    250W PSU
    19" Hyundai Monitor

  4. #24
    Mod - iPad Forums RipplingHurst's Avatar
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    Humm, thanks, I think your math is right. My battery is rated at 75Ah though. In the end I think I'll have to test it anyway.


    I just checked the service manual (page SC-40), my battery (Nissan, made in Japan, model no 110D26L) is rated at 75 Ah, with a cold cranking (CCA) 720A (whatever that means).

    No sure why, but for future reference I'l write here: the starter needs 11v, where it draws 90A and spins the engine to 2880rpm.
    The alternator is Mitsubishi made, at least 110A at 5000rpm (and more than 37A at 1800rpm and more than 92A at 2500rpm - funny the FX45 is double that at 1800rpm and the same in all others). It outputs 14.1 to 14.7V.

    I think I'm definitely going to need a new alternator if I go for a 1000W amp as I once planned...and new battery too.

    Now the alternator outputs "more than" 37A at 1800rpm?! LOL that means I can barely keep up with the computer itself, if I leave it on idle (around 900-1000rpm) eventually the battery will run out anyway? That's crazy, didn't know that.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by RipplingHurst View Post
    I just checked the service manual (page SC-40), my battery (Nissan, made in Japan, model no 110D26L) is rated at 75 Ah, with a cold cranking (CCA) 720A (whatever that means).
    off the top of my head, I think these ratings are that the battery can output 75A before being dead without having any input. The CCA rating I know is used in starting cars (the amount of electricity it can output in cold weather to start the car) but im not sure exactly how its calculated.

    Quote Originally Posted by RipplingHurst View Post
    Now the alternator outputs "more than" 37A at 1800rpm?! LOL that means I can barely keep up with the computer itself, if I leave it on idle (around 900-1000rpm) eventually the battery will run out anyway? That's crazy, didn't know that.
    Assuming the alternator outputs half that (~18.5A) at half the RPMs, it should be able to sustain a higher end car PC (225 Watt PSU drawing 18.75A) while idling. Not forever, but id think youd run out of gas before you could drain your battery with those numbers and you have to drive th the gas station, so the alternator will output more
    '93 Toyota Celica - First Car PC install
    Current System Specs:
    ZOTAC GF8200-C-E AM2+ GF8200
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+
    1 GB DDR2 667
    LITE-ON DL-8ATS Slot-Load
    750 GB Seagate SATA HDD
    250W PSU
    19" Hyundai Monitor

  6. #26
    FLAC
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    i don't know where you guys are getting your ram power consumption from but it doesn't sound right to me. best way is to put your computer to sleep with an amp meter and check how much it draws depending on your I/Os.

    as for dsatx, there's a parameter (sleepenable) if it is set, the DSATX will keep you 5V rail on until your battery voltage reach the lowvoltage threshold parameter. So it's a bit smarter than the conventional timer approach.

  7. #27
    Low Bitrate bigbuffs's Avatar
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    I like this option for my setup but I want to make it so that the only way it will come out of sleep is if the power button (ignition) is turned on. Right now it will come out of sleep if it senses a mouse movement or a key press. I havent been able to find a way to change this. Does anyone know how?
    [||||||----] - 60% Complete

  8. #28
    FLAC SFiorito's Avatar
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    in device manager, check the properties for your keyboard and mouse. There should be a power management tab where you can disable waking the computer up.
    EWF, HORM, MinLogon on XP.

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