Yes, already have a plan on dropping the single USB feed to the three front hubs. The thing to keep in mind is that when you reconnect the HUB there will be a sudden current draw from all devices on the USB line (caps charging) and once again dependent on hardware, and exactly what the PSU does with its +5 STB line in that situation will again be hardware dependent.
I have that situation mostly covered, so when I get a chance I’m going to do some tests.
As I suspected, my +5v STB line drops the instant any USB device is unplugged. Either MB or PSU is seeing this. When I get a chance I’ll find out which.
Found a way around the problem.
My FE monitors the position of the Auto/Manual switch in the centre console. This is the switch going to the IGN input (On/Off line) of the M4-PSU.
I had the FE set up so that if the IGN was fully on (ready to start the car or the car running) and the Auto/Man switch is depressed (turned off) then the FE will issue a shutdown cmd to the Car-PC. I have the M4 set for a 12 Seconds wait before signalling the PC motherboard – power on/off line.
I have that delay to give the FE time to stop Camera recordings, close the camera apps, stop the radio app and com-port if it’s open (that stops the PC going into sleep and sometimes in hibernate correctly) and all in a timely manner.
Anyway, I changed the code to Hibernate the PC instead of shutdown (I have a sub menu item button for shutdown anyway).
Now I can control when I don’t want the PC to go into “automatic” Sleep state (IGN turned off normally).
I just depress the Auto/Man button, wait a second until the FE announces it's going to hibernate and then turn the car off. Works perfectly. Solves long sleep/power usage times when I don't need them.
Here’s another brilliant feature (not) of the M4. If the PC is in sleep (or hibernate with +5v STB), any slight pulse on the IGN line (On/Off line to the M4) will instantly drop +5v standby on my unit, no matter how long you have the M4 set to NOT respond to the IGN line.
EDIT: Which takes me back to the original problem I had with sleep and the M4 a year or more ago, that’s when I posted that Cap and Diode mod for the M4 IGN line to stop it randomly causing resume from sleep to fail if the car was cranked.
What do you have your dip switches set to on the M4?
Do you have part numbers of the filter caps you put on it? My car radio is almost unusable when the PC is in the car, so I've got to start filtering as well.
I’m using Mode 1.
Hard Off timer is set to 7 hours.
Power off timer is now 5 seconds.
Emergency off is 60 seconds.
Windows setting for “what does the PC (hardware) button do” is set to “nothing” with this new mod.
I now have the system set up to:
Auto Shutdown if the Auto/Man switch is turned off while the vehicle IGN SW is in Full ON.
Auto Hibernate if the Auto/Man button is turned off while the vehicle IGN SW is in ACC.
Auto Sleep if the vehicle IGN SW is simply turned off.
BTW – A small device (almost no current draw) can be unplugged and 5v STBY stays. A HUB with a few devices that is unplugged will drop +5v STBY.
I’ll have to find the post I did on the forum in the M4 section for the mods and give you the link, the RF feed-through caps are getting costly and the M4-PCB has to be placed into an aluminium or copper case made from single or double side PCB cut and soldered together.
I know its a year later but I would like to know how you setup your system to boot from hibernate this fast , I have the same board and a silicon power T10 SSd 4gb ram and all usb connected through a powered usb hub.
Originally Posted by kegobeer
It takes me 40 seconds to boot from hibernate