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Thread: Custom USB tyre pressure monitoring interface

  1. #511
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rgarjr View Post
    Yeah JP3 is your ground and there's 2 pins. Which method are you gonna use, cutting the receiver part or pin method
    I have cut the board in half.... i couldnt deal with having to run more electrical wires.... So technically jumper 3 isnt really 2 pins, just a ground split into two. Im concerned about jumper 1 though.... there is a small diode or what ever you call it. It says 002 on the diode..... Do I pull this off then soder jumper 1 to both to make it one?
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  2. #512
    Variable Bitrate
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    MrBean was kind enough to snap some close up shots of the board
    pic

    I think you're talking about that small resistor on there. Yeah just leave that little guy there and solder your pin to the pad of it, nearest the cut.

  3. #513
    Constant Bitrate
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    PS: Thanks LYHTSPD, I got the 3rd eye kit in the mail today!!!!!!!!!!
    Nice!

  4. #514
    FLAC WuNgUn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    I know this is maybe a dumb question, but on the board is jumper 3 supposed to be together? Like soder wise? I noticed in Robby's picture of the board its together.... and the one I recieved from Jueve is also together...... Is this correct? Also what is the easiest way to sepearte what I need from the third eye kit? Aslo when sodering jumper 1, do I have to remove that tiny diode or soder with it on there?

    PS: Thanks LYHTSPD, I got the 3rd eye kit in the mail today!!!!!!!!!!
    I wondered the same thing...when I tested it with a meter, it was showing continuity, which concerned me a little! But after looking at the schematic, all was well...

  5. #515
    Maximum Bitrate Robby BMW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    I have cut the board in half.... i couldnt deal with having to run more electrical wires.... So technically jumper 3 isnt really 2 pins, just a ground split into two. Im concerned about jumper 1 though.... there is a small diode or what ever you call it. It says 002 on the diode..... Do I pull this off then soder jumper 1 to both to make it one?
    JP3 is double to ensure a better mechanical fastening.
    You can remove the small resistor and solder JP1 on both pads like in the picture below:

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  6. #516
    lez
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    soder
    grrrrrrrrrrrr

    wiki is your friend, it's got an L in it, pronounced SOLD - ER

    I blame Norm and his New Yankee workshop for this, I've heard him soddering so many times.............
    Lez, more widely known as flez1966

  7. #517
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    *slaps LEZ in the back of the head* This isnt english class..... I spelled it the way I say it, lol......

    Anyways, did I have to put the pins through the holes? I really wasnt able to get them through so I simply soldered (are you happy LEZ) them to the board without sticking through the holes. Jumper 1 I soldered to the end of the pad with the resistor, I was really scared of damaging the board. Jumper 2, I simply scrapped the green top layer off then soldered to the copper (was this right). When I insalled it into the PC it said, "New Human Interface Device Installed". So I guess I did it correctly, or will it install even if I did it wrong?
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  9. #519
    Maximum Bitrate Robby BMW's Avatar
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  10. #520
    Constant Bitrate
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    Anyways, did I have to put the pins through the holes? I really wasnt able to get them through so I simply soldered (are you happy LEZ) them to the board without sticking through the holes. Jumper 1 I soldered to the end of the pad with the resistor, I was really scared of damaging the board. Jumper 2, I simply scrapped the green top layer off then soldered to the copper (was this right). When I insalled it into the PC it said, "New Human Interface Device Installed". So I guess I did it correctly, or will it install even if I did it wrong?
    I had a hard time getting the J3 header pins through the holes, but eventually I got them through. As long as there are making an electrical connection you should be ok. It may not be as physically strong connection though. I would keep an eye on it and expect to re-solder it at some point.

    What you did with J2 is fine. That is really the only way you can make that connection. I left the resistor on J1 as well on my boards.

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