I've been reading and reading this forum and I've purchased a 7" Lilli TS (Ebay $198 shipped). This means that i am now commited and there is no turning back. I have decided on the following PC components:
VIA SP13000 (needs to be purchased)
512 MB Ram (spare ram i allready have)
30GB 2.5" laptop HD (old laptop HD)
Panasonic Slot Load DVD (needs to be purchased)
USB GPS (i already have this also)
I will run the audio from the via board to an aftermarket HU with aux in... working on custom dash fabrication at this point..
I am also adding a second vga (non ts) display 10-15.4" range for the backseat passengers.
My question is this: What is the best way for me to power these devices.
Before you flip out about searching and spoon feeding...I assure you, I have searched like a mad man and researched to death (I've been reading this forum for the better part of 2 years) Here is what I've come up with:
M2 ATX (more amps on the 12v rail than OPUS 150) to power the PC and all of it's components. I am assuming that I will have plenty of amps left and i can tap the 12v rail on the HD four pin connector to power my lilli, but I was wondering if it would be better to buy the m2 atx with the four pin P-4 connector and use that for my 12v rail to power the lilli, since i won't need it for the mobo connection? Now, will this likely leave enough amps on the 12v rail to power that second LCD, or should i get a 15w point of load dc-dc regulator? I'm also wondering if i really need the m2 atx, maybe the m1 atx would suffice, or OPUS 90 leaving me to buy a point of load for the second LCD. Further, I have a 2005 Ford F-150 that did not come with the overhead entertainment unit, but under the headliner, i can see a power supply line running to where it would have been mounted. If this is a ign switch 12v line, why couldn't i just use that to power the second LCD? Is it better to use the POL dc-dc to ensure clean steady power?
lastly, i have plenty of room to fit the mobo in the center console armrest where it will be fed AC from the rear seat ducts. I would like to make the pc easily removable to use in a second vehicle. How could i go about making a "quick release" power connection to the M2 ATX so i could remove the pc and transfer it to the other vehicle, leaving the PSU, DVD Slot Load, and Lilli in my F-150? In my work vehicle, i'm just going to use the car's cigarette lighter and a laptop style power brick - it doesn't need to look pretty, just using it for GPS and navigation. I'm going to buy another VGA Screen (non TS) for the work vehicle so i don't have to transfer the touch screen...
thanks in advance for any posts...and be gentle...after reading this forum for 2 years, all the information becomes a big blob in the brain that is difficult to extract information from. noobs with enough information to be dangerous are frequently dispatched with extreme prejudice
I was pretty sure about the 12v rail having enough amps, but I think i'm leaning towards the OPUS after reading some not so nice posts about the M2 ATX... If i need the additional amps for second lcd display, i will probably just add the 15 watt point of load. But i'm still wondering about the red power line running to the rear entertainment area from the factory wiring... i'm going to have to get out my voltage meter and see what it's outputting. if it is 12v, what is the danger in running my second LCD off this wire? can i assume that it's been fused properly by the factory? in all honesty, i would say a 30 dollar pol is worth the money to not have to worry about it...
Another thing i'm wondering, what is the "SB voltage modification" option on the OPUS 150? I'm assuming this is the standby (+5 rail) but i'm not sure what adding this modification does...opus is a little slow to respond to my question.
thanks for the reassurance...i'm really just double checking my setup at this point and it's nice to hear i'm on the right track before plunking down hard earned currency