Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Installed PC in car, Opus 120 gets 1 flashing LED.. HELP PLEASE!!!

  1. #1
    Low Bitrate briderx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    64

    Installed PC in car, Opus 120 gets 1 flashing LED.. HELP PLEASE!!!

    Hey guys.. I JUST got my pc put into my car.. I am having problems.. I'm getting the 1 flashing LED error: Battery voltage is below normal operating range. How do I fix this?? I'm pretty sure my setup is right. I wired everything to where it should go.. Maybe a jumper issue?? I don't understand that manual that came with it, but followed it as closely as possible!

  2. #2
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Elsewhere
    Posts
    13,950
    A jumper isn't going to fix a low voltage issue.
    I suggest using a multimeter (they're cheap at any electronics store if you don't have one) and use it to measure the voltage on teh +12v line.
    You cvould very well have a flat battery or something. It could also be the wiring itself.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  3. #3
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    16
    How long is the cable you are running to power the unit? It could possibly be a bit long and have voltage drop.

  4. #4
    Low Bitrate briderx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    64
    Its about 6 feet long MAX. I have a volt-o-meter . I'll check the voltages when I get home. I was recommended by an installer (good friend) that I should wire the 12v and acc straight to my ignition switch.. bah.. I was so tired last night, i'll give it another shot later today! Thanks for the tips.. keep em rollin!

  5. #5
    Low Bitrate briderx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    64
    Checked voltages/amps and realized that there was a problem with my monitor cable.. I ended up taking off the "EGG" and reversed the wires on the cable (running it to a 4-pin molex) and it powered right up! I'm getting a steady 12.3 load on each wire while the car is off, and a 13.3 while the car is on.. No apparent differences in performance. Doesn't the OPUS 120 regulate the power going to the board?

    BTW: an easier way to power your system, instead of running the power to your battery, is to tap into the ignition switch on your steering wheel. It has your 12v + ACC in one place! No drilling through your firewall, or having extra wires running in your engine compartment (Can we say less noise??). Anyways, that was a tip from my buddy that does custom stereo equipment/alarm installs.

    Ahh.. One more thing to top off this thread: The 7" Lilliput SUCKS for reflection of light.. Don't know why we even bother with those! As soon as I can afford a better screen, I'm gonna be switching! (Can't hardly see anything in daylight!!)

    [Lilliput Screens]

  6. #6
    Low Bitrate
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    93
    Make sure you have both battery wires connected to batt seperately, don't slpice them into into one wire. Same with the two grounds. That fixed my low voltage issue, I have other serious issues with mine but that did fix the voltage. You also want to be careful tapping into any wire you are not positive goes directly to the battery, if you tap into one with a high draw and you add more draw to it(more draw than it was designed to handle) you can end up with a big smelly and sticky problem, not to mention the orange flames and black smoke.

  7. #7
    Constant Bitrate pate60's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand.
    Posts
    210
    [QUOTE=briderx;1056650]BTW: an easier way to power your system, instead of running the power to your battery, is to tap into the ignition switch on your steering wheel. It has your 12v + ACC in one place! No drilling through your firewall, or having extra wires running in your engine compartment (Can we say less noise??). Anyways, that was a tip from my buddy that does custom stereo equipment/alarm installs.
    QUOTE]

    Thats nuts can expect to tap on on those wires with several amps current draw and expect everything to work fine!

  8. #8
    FLAC W3bMa5t3r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    1,268
    Quote Originally Posted by malkamus View Post
    Make sure you have both battery wires connected to batt seperately, don't slpice them into into one wire. Same with the two grounds. That fixed my low voltage issue, I have other serious issues with mine but that did fix the voltage. You also want to be careful tapping into any wire you are not positive goes directly to the battery, if you tap into one with a high draw and you add more draw to it(more draw than it was designed to handle) you can end up with a big smelly and sticky problem, not to mention the orange flames and black smoke.


    This is especially true for hooking up power supplies. Most wires aren't made for that extra current you'll be drawing. Best for the Main +12VDC wire to be run to the battery or some other power distribution point created for that purpose. Hooking up the Switched / ACC +12VDC is ok, cuz that usually won't pull much, just a voltage sensor wire really.

  9. #9
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by briderx View Post

    BTW: an easier way to power your system, instead of running the power to your battery, is to tap into the ignition switch on your steering wheel. It has your 12v + ACC in one place! No drilling through your firewall, or having extra wires running in your engine compartment (Can we say less noise??). Anyways, that was a tip from my buddy that does custom stereo equipment/alarm installs.

    [Lilliput Screens]
    Thats not a good idea. I talked to Opus when I was doing my install and they told me that they do not advise to have any other devices on the main input lead that the PC is on, due to noise. Taking the power from the steering wheel doesn't sound like a safe option. First you have no clue what other devices are on it, and furthermore you have no idea what AWG wire ise used further down the line. Id be safe and invest the extra $10 and have a dedicated line straight to the battery.

Similar Threads

  1. Custom Controller for OPUS 120W
    By walttoinfiniti in forum Power Supplies
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 06-14-2007, 07:09 PM
  2. Car PC Power Package, 120 watt DC DC and ITPS Sequencer
    By deskcom in forum Classified Archive
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-10-2004, 04:19 PM
  3. In progress car PC install.
    By Arathranar in forum Fabrication
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-20-2004, 01:49 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •