bump...anyone?
not sure if this should go in power supplies or car audio, but i chose here because it has to do (in my opinion) with the PSU....
Im using the Opus 250W, and i have the remote lead from Jumper 2 (the remote jumper for the timing) set on pins 7 and 8 just as the manual tells me to (for 20sec turn on delay). The amp still turns on right as i start the car.
I, for the life of me, cant figure out how to make it so the amp does not turn on until after the sound card initiates to prevent that pop noise. when the pins are set to 7 and 8 on jumper2, it looks like this in the manual
Am I missing something? and can someone please tell me what i am doing wrong? I greatly appreciate it...and my speakers and ears do as well.
and yes, i did a search and came up with nothing on the forums on this...
Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
Subwoofer: removed
Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed
bump...anyone?
Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
Subwoofer: removed
Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed
bump...anyone at all? how do you make the amp turn on later using the Opus 250 to prevent the pop?
Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
Subwoofer: removed
Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed
OK. Quit bumping your thread every couple hours.
It's getting annoying.
What happens if you have jumpers on positions 7 & 8 in that jumper block. That should delay the amp turning on for 20 seconds.
that the way i have it set up...on jumpers 7 and 8. it should delay the amp turn on by 20 seconds, but thats not what it's doing...thats why i started the thread, because im hoping someone knows why. I have already send back my faulty Opus 250, and i just received this one back from you guys...i would like to make sure that this one isnt faulty as well...
Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
Subwoofer: removed
Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed
well, Darque...i didnt bump for over a year and still no reply.
I still have the problem. I have called Opus within that year, they couldnt help, either. Is there anyone that knows? I have tried a solid-state timer, and that didnt work since the piece was broken (a sincere thanks to whoever gave it to me...i forget who, but still...thanks...it was worth a shot). I tried pin 4 on the serial port with amp control, and that worked for maybe 2 months before the serial port died (i still havent figured out why).
any help is appreciated...thanks
Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
Subwoofer: removed
Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed
Is too much voltage being supplied to the amp? I know with my car the amp line needs to be 5V instead of 12V so you have to wire in a voltage regulator.
hello rijndael,
Are you using two jumpers? Meaning, you use one jumper to short the top and bottom pins for position 7, and another jumper to short the top and bottom pins for position 8.
Or are you using one jumper to short the two bottom pins?
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