After much research and time I have finally bought a Voom Case and Via 15000G with 120gb drive and 1Gb ram, with a PicoPsu 60 WI connected to a 7" touch screen in my Jeep Grand Cherokee ltd. It worked well with my AC DC adaptor but to finalise I need to clarify (ie safely) the wiring for power in the Jeep. The way I wish to set it up is that it boots when power is switched on and it shuts down via windows manually.
My question is what is the standard wiring (guage etc) needed and can you recommend a configuration that will allow me to have a toggle switch to switch it back on & to isolate it from the dash.
I Really appreciate your input or where I can get simple guidence
Ditch the PicoPSU and get a real PSU like the M1-ATX or M2-ATX (fit in the VoomPC/Ampie case both versions). Then hook it up to power, ignition, and ground and voila. It is exactly as you want. The PicoPSU line is a horrible choice for the CarPC application, and last I checked it did not regulate the 12v+ line meaning when your car is on, you are sending 13.8v of dirty voltage through your brand new via motherboard when it is supposed to only have +12v stable. So bad idea.
As for the actually wiring, you need a wire stragiht from the battery (8awg or 10awg will be fine, but I suggest 4awg so you have plenty of extra room in case you decide to upgrade later). DO NOT POWER IT FROM YOUR CIGARETTE LIGHTER SOCKET. Then the igntion wire can be any source that comes on when the car comes on, usually found under the steering wheel. Then ground is your choice between the closest metal point clear of debris, or all to the same point. The grounding issue is a fierce debate about how to best prevent ground loops. You can even run it all the way back to your battery if you want. As long as the music sounds alright to you, then it doesnt matter.
As for the toggle switch, put a switch on the ignition line of your new M1/M2. You need an ON-OFF-ON toggle switch. Meaning the lever can be up, down, and in the middle. One ON pole should go to the normal ignition wire that is live only when the car is on. The second ON pole should go to a constant +12v source that is always live (can be from the radio harness as this is just a remote trigger wire and microamps are pulled from it). So if the lever is on ON #1, it will work normally and turn on and off with the car. If the lever is in the middle and connected to OFF, then the M1/M2 never gets the ignition wire on and the PC never turns on regardless of the state of the car. If the lever is on ON #2, then it will always receive the turn-on trigger and will remain on no matter what the state of the car is.
Oh, and all these questions are answered in the FAQ section too. I reccommend you check that out.
The 60W WI does regulate the 12v line, manual here : http://resources.mini-box.com/online...-WI-manual.pdf
Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster
If this is how the FAQ answers this question then the FAQ needs fixing...!
This version of the picoPSU only outputs up to 400mA on the 12v line though, so it's useless for powering a 3.5" hard drive or a screen. And it doesn't have any kind of shutdown controller. So overall I agree there are better choices for in car.
Thanks guys, I really like your input. Sound like you know what your talking about!
The Pico Psu 60 is 6-24 range so I understood variances are OK. In hindsight (after a dealer recommendation) I should have chosen an MX1 or MX2 but....Im stuck with it I suppose....(I can feel another ebay buy coming on soon)
As for the wiring i'll fit 8-10awg as you suggest unless someone else thinks differently. I did notice though that the wiring Voom case harness supplied is rated at 18awg or am I confused?
What sort of amp fuse do you suggest as I can't see any info from reading the EN15000G manual? It has a 2.5" hard drive and a bluetooth dongle, Garmin GPS via USB and a Blaze DTV dongle and a ELM OBDII unit via USB.
By the way - what is the advantage of M2 over M1?
Well as of March 2006, it didnt. I bought one when I was a newbie and in testing I found that the 12v rail just spat out exactly what was supplied to it. YOu give it 5v, 5v comes out the 12v line. You give it 20v, and it shoots out 20v down the 12v line. So I was just going off of experience. It is good that they improved it, but 400mA is nothing!
Originally Posted by Rob Withey
Things change...! Back then there was probably only one picopsu. Now there are many different types. The WI is a wide input variety that is quite happy to accept a wide voltage range.
The crappy original that passes the input straight through can still be bought, and is fine if you want to run it from a regulated power brick for example.
:eek: :eek: Change?! Run Away!!!!! :bolt::bolt::bolt:
Originally Posted by Rob Withey
Any one able to add further infor in regards to my wire rating and fuse rating? Thanks