Fitting ring terminals for earth / power connections

**lez** · 08-12-2007, 04:33 PM

Ring terminals are a great way to get power from your battery or an earth at some point for your equipment, but if the connection is no good, you can run into all kinds of problems, I just had to fight a right monster of a job as some previous technician had done a wonderful job of crimping a wire by its insulation, which then came loose...

While it may seem common sense to some people how to fit a crimp terminal, I like to solder them, so here goes....

1) First strip and prepare ends of wires, don't forget to side plastic barrel over wires now!

2) Apply some solder to the wires, and then crimp into the connector

3) Apply more solder to the ring terminal, it should 'run' into the voids around the wire

4) slide plastic barrel over connection and clamp, its now secure for life.

**DarquePervert** · 08-12-2007, 04:49 PM

I would take the extra step of using electrical tape or heatshrink tubing (preferred) over the plastic barrel for an additional layer of protection. The plastic barrels have a tendency to slide back and forth along the wire.

**2k1Toaster** · 08-12-2007, 04:53 PM

Originally Posted by DarquePervert

I would take the extra step of using electrical tape or heatshrink tubing (preferred) over the plastic barrel for an additional layer of protection. The plastic barrels have a tendency to slide back and forth along the wire.

+1 for heatshrink. Allthough I am guilty of using duct tape for some of those temporary connections.

**Rob Withey** · 08-12-2007, 04:57 PM

+2 for heatshrink.

**TruckinMP3** · 08-13-2007, 09:48 AM

+3 for heat shrink.

**lez** · 08-13-2007, 01:05 PM

Originally Posted by DarquePervert

I would take the extra step of using electrical tape or heatshrink tubing (preferred) over the plastic barrel for an additional layer of protection. The plastic barrels have a tendency to slide back and forth along the wire.

That should not happen, as the barrel should be crimped, reducing its size so it cant move back over the thicker part of the terminal, but yes, I do agree some of them dont behave as they should and if you have some heatshrink, ditch the barrel piece altogether and just heat shrink it.

**FUBAR_NZL** · 08-24-2007, 09:49 PM

that is the worst or close to crimping i have ever seen
DONT use side cutters or plyers to crimp, spend (here in nz) $70 for the proper crimp ratchet controlled hand tool
you dont have to remove the sleeve to get solder to flow up the terminal, a good iron with heat will make it flow
i use a ratchet crimp tool for work just about every day cept weekends and never had any problems

**lez** · 08-25-2007, 04:49 AM

Originally Posted by FUBAR_NZL

that is the worst or close to crimping i have ever seen

Nice to see for only your third post on here you having a knock noob.....

1) I crimped it with the side cutters I admit, reason, they were to hand, it applies pressure in a thin solid line, just what you want with a crimp, not a broad area that reduces the amount of pressure, like you get with most $5 crimp tools, dont go even thinking of telling people to but $70 tools, its never going to happen among a group of people that are into self build.

I had a guy the other day telling me how good a mechanic he was as all his tools were snapon, makes no difference where the tools come form, its whose hands they are in that makes the difference.

2) its a 5c connector, If you dont move the sleeve up the wire, it melts. Doh!

**WiCKeD 5.9L** · 08-25-2007, 11:30 AM

Originally Posted by lez

That should not happen, as the barrel should be crimped, reducing its size so it cant move back over the thicker part of the terminal, but yes, I do agree some of them dont behave as they should and if you have some heatshrink, ditch the barrel piece altogether and just heat shrink it.

I agree with DP. Electrical tape is very easy and makes sure it is secure. Solder does not always adhere well and connections can break. Thick layer of electrical tape prevents bendage. Nice job of soldering though.

Don't you need a special heat gun for heatshrink?

**lez** · 08-25-2007, 11:58 AM

Originally Posted by WiCKeD 5.9L

Solder does not always adhere well and connections can break. Thick layer of electrical tape prevents bendage. Nice job of soldering though.

yes its 30 years of practice, which is why it does adhere well and does not break!

Once I had to solder some wires into a cabinet, all bared ends were to be 6mm in length and tinned for 4mm, the insulation of the wire must not show signs of heat at the end.

Once all the wires were prepared and passed, they had to be soldered into the board.

I hated those hundreds of wires I had to do...........

Don't you need a special heat gun for heatshrink?

Any old heat gun will do, but the original way is to hold the shrink above the soldering iron, because when heatshrink first came out, hot air guns were not around and took some finding.

Of course if you did it that way now, you would get hundreds of posts about how you were doing it wrong........