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Thread: Igniton Fuse Keeps Blowing

  1. #1
    Variable Bitrate TeamRSX's Avatar
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    Question Igniton Fuse Keeps Blowing

    P.S. Sorry for the long post..

    I have had my carputer installed for just over a month now. I have been dealing with a little bit of a battery draining issue which i am currectly dealing with. Just have to wait and get a multimeter that can read amperage.

    I took my computer out of my car this weekend to change some of the settings on my dsatx with my brainstem. when i started the car after putting the computer back in the computer didn't boot.

    I checked the 20a fuse in my power distro block for the dsatx and it was blown. So, i put another 20a fuse in and everything booted fine.

    About an hour later the computer shut down on me while driving. I also noticed my amp was not getting power as the light was not on. Turns out the computer and amp were not getting acc when the car is on, still says 0.00.

    Opened my dash and checked the igniton wire on my harness and wasn't reading properly. turns out the fuse under my dash for the igniton was blown. Its a 7.5a mini fuse. After i replaced it everything worked for about 10sec and shutoff again. Same fuse blown.

    I take out the fuse in the power distro block for the dsatx, just leaving the amp fuse in and it still blows. Take out the fuse for the amp in the distro block and put the dsatx fuse back in. The computer loads. After a few minutes the same ignition fuse blows and computer shuts off.

    So, both my amp and carputer are making the ignition fuse under my dash which is a 7.5a fuse to blow each time.

    Not sure what to do from here..

    Here is my setup:

    I have my main power off my battery to a 60a fuse with 8awg wire. It then connects to a fused power distrobution block. I have a 20a fuse for my DSATX and a 60a fuse for my amp (i thin it only required a 50a, but couln't find one)

    I have 8awg power and ground for my computer and amp. I have a ground distro block for my dsatx and amp.

    For my amp remote i have it directly to the igniton wire on my harnes. For my DSATX i have the acc line going to a switch and the going to the same ignition as the amp.

  2. #2
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    Something is drawing way too much power on your accessory line. Without see a wiring diagram, I can't tell, but it sounds like you are somehow overloading the accessory line or there is an intermittent short in the accessory line wiring.
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  3. #3
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    Did you check to see if the fuse blows with the DSATX ACC input and the amp remote disconnected? And then one or the other. This is different than just pulling the power side fuses.

    If one of those two lines is touching ground (amp remote or dsatx acc) the 7.5A ACC fuse powering the circuit you've connected to will blow. However if there is a problem on the power side (of either amp or carPC) what you would be seeing is the distro block fuses blowing, ideally.

    What you could do is leave the 7.5 amp fuse removed, and check voltage to ground and eitther side of the fuse socket. One side should be hot with the ignition on, the other side should be at 0V. Then turn ign off, and measure resistance to ground on the other side of the fuse socket (with both the dsatx acc, and amp remote wires plugged into their respective components). Perhaps one will read 1.6 ohms or less. If so, disconnect one of the two at the load side, and re-check. If resistance didn't go up, disconnect the other and check again. If disconnecting one of the wires at the load side makes resistance go high (good) then you have a ground in one of the components (bad, but now the problem is localized). If, with both components unplugged from the ignition wire there is still low resistance to ground then the problem is in the wire going to the components (exposed bare wire touching ground) or it is another part of that ignition circuit (disconnect the wires where you initially connected them on the harness to be sure).
    If a low resistance was found only with a component plugged in, then check to see if internally somethinng is out of place or touching ground, if not, perhaps something blew on a PCB.
    If the problem only happens when a main power fuse to a component is installed, then there is something turrning on (relay or transistor) which is connecting the ignition sensing circuit to ground. That is likely internal and would require following the action specified in the paragraph above.
    Those two acc sensing circuits should not pull much current from that 7.5amp limited circuit in the car, but it may be that by changing the configuration on the dsatx, something changes which pulls just enough to overload the circuit. I would spend very little time entertaining this since it is very unlikely. But worth mentioning for completeness' sake.
    ... Lots of stuff to check...

  4. #4
    Variable Bitrate TeamRSX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by h3rk View Post
    Did you check to see if the fuse blows with the DSATX ACC input and the amp remote disconnected? And then one or the other. This is different than just pulling the power side fuses.

    If one of those two lines is touching ground (amp remote or dsatx acc) the 7.5A ACC fuse powering the circuit you've connected to will blow. However if there is a problem on the power side (of either amp or carPC) what you would be seeing is the distro block fuses blowing, ideally.

    What you could do is leave the 7.5 amp fuse removed, and check voltage to ground and eitther side of the fuse socket. One side should be hot with the ignition on, the other side should be at 0V. Then turn ign off, and measure resistance to ground on the other side of the fuse socket (with both the dsatx acc, and amp remote wires plugged into their respective components). Perhaps one will read 1.6 ohms or less. If so, disconnect one of the two at the load side, and re-check. If resistance didn't go up, disconnect the other and check again. If disconnecting one of the wires at the load side makes resistance go high (good) then you have a ground in one of the components (bad, but now the problem is localized). If, with both components unplugged from the ignition wire there is still low resistance to ground then the problem is in the wire going to the components (exposed bare wire touching ground) or it is another part of that ignition circuit (disconnect the wires where you initially connected them on the harness to be sure).
    If a low resistance was found only with a component plugged in, then check to see if internally somethinng is out of place or touching ground, if not, perhaps something blew on a PCB.
    If the problem only happens when a main power fuse to a component is installed, then there is something turrning on (relay or transistor) which is connecting the ignition sensing circuit to ground. That is likely internal and would require following the action specified in the paragraph above.
    Those two acc sensing circuits should not pull much current from that 7.5amp limited circuit in the car, but it may be that by changing the configuration on the dsatx, something changes which pulls just enough to overload the circuit. I would spend very little time entertaining this since it is very unlikely. But worth mentioning for completeness' sake.
    ... Lots of stuff to check...

    I only took out the fuse for the amp and dsatx too see if the ignition fuse would blow. I never tried disconnecting the acc on either amp or dsatx.

    I just dont understand, it was working fine a few days ago, why all of a sudden. But, i am having a battery draining issue as well, so maybe this has to due with that.

    As of right now the only fuse thats blowing is the 7.5a ignition fuse. The fuses in the pwrd distro block are not blowing except for the one time the dsatx fuse blew.

    But, i will check resistance as you mentioned above so we can isolate the problem.

    I dont think it had anything to due with changing the settings on the dsatx, but you never know.

    But, the amp blows the fuse immediately. If i have the fuse for the dsatx out and only the amp in, the fuse will blow as soon as i turn the car on. On the other hand if i have only the dsatx fuse in the fuse wont blow until after i reboot usually. Lasts much longer. But why all of a sudden the acc line cant handle those too things.

  5. #5
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeamRSX View Post
    I only took out the fuse for the amp and dsatx too see if the ignition fuse would blow. I never tried disconnecting the acc on either amp or dsatx.

    I just dont understand, it was working fine a few days ago, why all of a sudden. But, i am having a battery draining issue as well, so maybe this has to due with that.

    As of right now the only fuse thats blowing is the 7.5a ignition fuse. The fuses in the pwrd distro block are not blowing except for the one time the dsatx fuse blew.

    But, i will check resistance as you mentioned above so we can isolate the problem.

    I dont think it had anything to due with changing the settings on the dsatx, but you never know.

    But, the amp blows the fuse immediately. If i have the fuse for the dsatx out and only the amp in, the fuse will blow as soon as i turn the car on. On the other hand if i have only the dsatx fuse in the fuse wont blow until after i reboot usually. Lasts much longer. But why all of a sudden the acc line cant handle those too things.
    One important thing to keep in mind is: niether the amp, nor the dsatx should be pulling hardly anything (on the order of milliamps) in terms of current, from the ignition circuit.

    Based on that last paragraph, I would definately be sure to include running the car with the amp's remote line completely disconnected from the circuit in the troubleshooting.

    Based on the wire guage difference, I supposed there isn't any chance that you reconnected the battery connection on either device to ignition in the car. But that could cause a scenario like this.

    But if you do the stuff I put above, one step at a time, where the main power fuses are not the only isolation point, you should have some more definate clues to the actual problem.

    Good luck.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by h3rk View Post
    One important thing to keep in mind is: niether the amp, nor the dsatx should be pulling hardly anything (on the order of milliamps) in terms of current, from the ignition circuit.

    Based on that last paragraph, I would definately be sure to include running the car with the amp's remote line completely disconnected from the circuit in the troubleshooting.

    Based on the wire guage difference, I supposed there isn't any chance that you reconnected the battery connection on either device to ignition in the car. But that could cause a scenario like this.

    But if you do the stuff I put above, one step at a time, where the main power fuses are not the only isolation point, you should have some more definate clues to the actual problem.

    Good luck.
    I have my power lines for the dsatx and amp in my power distro block and have my grounds in my ground distro block. I dont have the acc lines going to power, but rather the ignition line on my harness. I doubled checked.

    I was told by a few other members to use a 30a relay and use the igntion as a trigger for my remote on. what are your thoughts on a relay for my acc lines?

    But i do have a quick question regarding my currect power. Not sure if i have the fuse and wire size correct.

    For my power, i have a 8awg wire from my + battery to a 60a fuse, which then connects to my power distro block. In my power distro block i have a 20a fuse for my carpc and a 60a fuse for my amp and both of these are 8awg.

    Now, since i only have a 60a fuse by my battery for the power and in my fused pwrd distro block i have a total of 80a(20+60). So, should i increade the fuse by my battery to be 80a instead of 60a for my power??

    I think the max fuse size for 8awg wire is 50amps. I am using 60a by the battery(which i want to increase to 80a) and 20a + 60a for my pwrd distro block. Am i going to have to increase my wire gauge to 4awg which has a max fuse size of 125 i think?

  7. #7
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeamRSX View Post
    I have my power lines for the dsatx and amp in my power distro block and have my grounds in my ground distro block. I dont have the acc lines going to power, but rather the ignition line on my harness. I doubled checked.

    I was told by a few other members to use a 30a relay and use the igntion as a trigger for my remote on. what are your thoughts on a relay for my acc lines?
    You can do that, just wire the relay's coil from ignition to ground, and then connect the two ignition wires to 87 and then connect the battery to 30 (through a fuse). You should choose a low value for that fuse though (and you can choose a small guage wire), as niether component is designed to draw very much through their ignition sensing lines. Which is why I suspect, at this point, will not solve the real problem or your batttery drain. A relay here, seems like a band-aid (that will fall off as soon as you connect the wire through a fuse to the battery and turn on the car). It is always nice to keep aftermarket circuits isolated from factory as much as possible though, imho.

    Quote Originally Posted by TeamRSX View Post
    But i do have a quick question regarding my currect power. Not sure if i have the fuse and wire size correct.

    For my power, i have a 8awg wire from my + battery to a 60a fuse, which then connects to my power distro block. In my power distro block i have a 20a fuse for my carpc and a 60a fuse for my amp and both of these are 8awg.

    Now, since i only have a 60a fuse by my battery for the power and in my fused pwrd distro block i have a total of 80a(20+60). So, should i increade the fuse by my battery to be 80a instead of 60a for my power??

    I think the max fuse size for 8awg wire is 50amps. I am using 60a by the battery(which i want to increase to 80a) and 20a + 60a for my pwrd distro block. Am i going to have to increase my wire gauge to 4awg which has a max fuse size of 125 i think?
    Yes, with this fuse selection you risk exceeding your 8AWG maximum allowable current rating, overheating that wire and slowing down traffic in ottawa unnecessarily.

    Your math seems right, but if you are not blowing the 60A, why increase it? It's ok to be conservative. If you do blow that 60A, and obviously exceed your 8AWG's 50A rating, then you probably need larger wire. You can upsize the wire, it would be a pretty good thing to do here, then increase the root fuse to 80A. That would be safest and most reliable.

  8. #8
    Variable Bitrate TeamRSX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by h3rk View Post
    You can do that, just wire the relay's coil from ignition to ground, and then connect the two ignition wires to 87 and then connect the battery to 30 (through a fuse). You should choose a low value for that fuse though (and you can choose a small guage wire), as niether component is designed to draw very much through their ignition sensing lines. Which is why I suspect, at this point, will not solve the real problem or your batttery drain. A relay here, seems like a band-aid (that will fall off as soon as you connect the wire through a fuse to the battery and turn on the car). It is always nice to keep aftermarket circuits isolated from factory as much as possible though, imho.
    Ok, for the relay i was going to do the following:

    Connect terminal #30 to + battery and fuse (for fuse i though you had to put a fuse large enough for all the amps you are supplying. So i would have to put in a 80a fuse.(20a for the dsatx and 60a for amp)
    Connect terminal #85 to ground, terminal #86 to the remote turn on wire from the ignition in the harness, and terminal #87 to each accessory.

    For #30 i was going to use 4awg wire and for #85,86,87 i was going to use 18awg wire.

    The reason i was considering the relay is because i thought i was overloading the ignition and though by just using it as a trigger would help, but as you mentioned the amp and dsatx should not be drawing enough amps to blow the fuse.

    So, you think i will run into the same problem with using a relay instead of tapping into the ignition wire itself.

    Quote Originally Posted by h3rk
    Yes, with this fuse selection you risk exceeding your 8AWG maximum allowable current rating, overheating that wire and slowing down traffic in ottawa unnecessarily.

    Your math seems right, but if you are not blowing the 60A, why increase it? It's ok to be conservative. If you do blow that 60A, and obviously exceed your 8AWG's 50A rating, then you probably need larger wire. You can upsize the wire, it would be a pretty good thing to do here, then increase the root fuse to 80A. That would be safest and most reliable.
    I want to replace the main 60a fuse with a 80a fuse and increase the wire gauge because i figured i was at the maximum limit for 8awg wire. I have never blown the main fuse, but figured i was over the max amp supported by 8awg.

  9. #9
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    Ok, I think you are mixing up 2 things. There are 2 circuits and they work together. One is through that main power connection you have coming from the distribution block. That current path is totally seperate from ignition sensing. A problem with pulling too many amps through the amp by cranking up the tunes, should not have any effect on the remote wire that comes from where you have it connected to the ignition circuit. The same goes with a similar scenario, where you would have the DSATX overloaded with too many computer parts.

    Think of it like there's already a relay inside bothe of those components. You already have the 4awg connected to 30 and the amps main power feed connects to 87, then the remote wire you see, or the ign wire on the dsatx are connected from ignition to the coil side of the relay (the other side of the coil is to ground). All of that is internal. See how they are isolated?
    turn on the ignition and the coil picks up, that is the only load on the ignition circuit, so it doesn't care how many main-line amps the device is pulling. connecting another relay to do the same job as the existing circuit isn't going to buy you anything. And you'll still have to power the remote turn on inside the amp (or ign wire for dsatx), which could be done by connecting them to battery or the same terminal on the relay that supplies main power to the amp/power supply. A very ugly band-aid, doing this I would feel as if I didn't solve the problem, but only skirted around it.. I would save that for 'last resort'.
    If you have any questions after doing the initial checks I mentioned, let me know. Post the results here if you like.

  10. #10
    Variable Bitrate TeamRSX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by h3rk View Post
    Ok, I think you are mixing up 2 things. There are 2 circuits and they work together. One is through that main power connection you have coming from the distribution block. That current path is totally seperate from ignition sensing. A problem with pulling too many amps through the amp by cranking up the tunes, should not have any effect on the remote wire that comes from where you have it connected to the ignition circuit. The same goes with a similar scenario, where you would have the DSATX overloaded with too many computer parts.

    Think of it like there's already a relay inside bothe of those components. You already have the 4awg connected to 30 and the amps main power feed connects to 87, then the remote wire you see, or the ign wire on the dsatx are connected from ignition to the coil side of the relay (the other side of the coil is to ground). All of that is internal. See how they are isolated?
    turn on the ignition and the coil picks up, that is the only load on the ignition circuit, so it doesn't care how many main-line amps the device is pulling. connecting another relay to do the same job as the existing circuit isn't going to buy you anything. And you'll still have to power the remote turn on inside the amp (or ign wire for dsatx), which could be done by connecting them to battery or the same terminal on the relay that supplies main power to the amp/power supply. A very ugly band-aid, doing this I would feel as if I didn't solve the problem, but only skirted around it.. I would save that for 'last resort'.
    If you have any questions after doing the initial checks I mentioned, let me know. Post the results here if you like.
    Ok, i ended up finding why the fuse for the igniton was blowing. As it turns out i checked the acc line for the amp just to make sure everything is ok and i noticed the bottom of the wire where it goes behind my seat i noticed the wire was stripped and completely touching metal. So, the wire was shorted causing an overload and blowing the fuse.

    I have fixed the wire and put in a new fuse for the ignition and works great. Fuse does not blow now and works great.

    Thanks for your help and you were very helpful. All i need to do is get a multimeter that can read amps so i can see what is draining my battery.

    Thanks again.

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