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Thread: Everything You need to know about your M4 ATX

  1. #111
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    Another person on here said to ground the outer pin for the amp header, so I have wiring going out of the case already. Is it fine just to ground that? I'm just not sure why they would specify that the outer pin is ground if you aren't supposed to ground it.

    Also, when connecting the motherboard on/off pins, which is +/-? These connect to the power button header on the motherboard, correct? From the case power button, the black wire is on the far left of the 4 pins and the red is the pin to the right of this. But it doesn't show +/- in the PSU manual, only motherboard on/off. Is it safe to assume that the polarity doesn't matter in this case?

  2. #112
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    Polarity does not matter on the power switch. Basically you just short those two pins on the motherboard to start it. (I do it all the time with a flat head screwdriver for testing purposes)

    Also I've never gotten the amp turn on feature to work on any Mx-ATX series power supply.
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  3. #113
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    Good to know, thanks! Just to clarify, these connect to the same pins that the power button on a case would, correct? Just want to make sure that I'm talking about the correct pins on the motherboard.

    How do you control the amps without the turn on feature? Do you have a HU installed in addition to your carputer that controls the audio portion? Did you use the ground when trying the amp turn on feature? Did you connect your amps from the J6 header or the J8? Could this possibly be a firmware issue? What firmware version were you using? It looks like some thump issues were addressed in version 1.3 according to the changelog.

  4. #114
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    Yep, these pins connect to the same ones a power button would.

    I have not actually tried hooking up an amp remote to my M4, but I know my M2 wouldn't turn on my amps so I never bothered with it again. I just use a simple hard switch attached to the ignition that runs to my amp remote. Just turn them on manually after the PC is up. I know it's not for everyone but it's simple enough and it works for me.
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  5. #115
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    Has anyone gotten the AMP anti-thump turn on to work? and where do I connect the single remote wire from my amp to on the M4?

  6. #116
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    For installation reference:

    I studied the PC board quite a bit for installing this and noticed a design trait I really didn't like that much. Mounting pads on 2 of the holes are positive (+) flowing current from the primary input. You may notice they have an extra layer of clear insulation on them. I don't like this because if one was to use metal standoffs and tighten it down too much, the IC will short against ground. In my installation I used non conductive nylon standoff's just to be sure. Just though installers should know this since it's not marked anywhere in the manual.

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  7. #117
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    Power Switch

    I'm going crazy here... I tested my install a dozen times switching the motherboard on and off using a switch instead of the M4-ATX switch. I did this so I could test the computer on/off and function it when I wanted.

    ...anyhow, now I hooked everything up and when I start my car the M4 switches the motherboard on as it should, it stays powered for about 20-30 seconds and shuts down AHGHGHHGH... Ok, so I have tested this and I can start the car, M4 powers up fine and if I unplug the switch from J6 & J7 on the M4 the motherboard stays powered. What would be causing the M4 to shut off when the PC switch is plugged in? Again, if I just use a switch or a screwdriver to touch the on/off pins of the motherboard it works fine... so annoying!!!

  8. #118
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    I would say your ACC line is probably cutting out after 20-30 seconds?

    Test it with a multimeter to ensure 12vdc is present at the switch (middle input terminal) when the car is on
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  9. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by blk02si View Post
    I would say your ACC line is probably cutting out after 20-30 seconds?

    Test it with a multimeter to ensure 12vdc is present at the switch (middle input terminal) when the car is on
    Thanks but that's not it either... Tested all voltages. Power stays at a solid 14.34v when car is running and the ACC stays on entire time. The M4 stays powered and just goes to a flashing state (powered) so if I manually start the PC everything works. It also did this when I just touch the IGN from the M4 to the 12 v constant so it can't be the ACC. The M4 has auto latch so it should stay on for 60 seconds either way. Only ran 10 gauge wire for battery, I wonder if it isn't pulling enough on initial start/test so the M4 shuts down - Running 4 gauge when I get home

  10. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLIVER23 View Post
    Thanks but that's not it either... Tested all voltages. Power stays at a solid 14.34v when car is running and the ACC stays on entire time. The M4 stays powered and just goes to a flashing state (powered) so if I manually start the PC everything works. It also did this when I just touch the IGN from the M4 to the 12 v constant so it can't be the ACC. The M4 has auto latch so it should stay on for 60 seconds either way. Only ran 10 gauge wire for battery, I wonder if it isn't pulling enough on initial start/test so the M4 shuts down - Running 4 gauge when I get home
    I fixed this. Don't ask me why but I had my Lilliput monitor hooked up to the 4 plug wire coming out of the M4 going to the MB. The M4 did not like that... I tested anything wired to here and sure enough, same problem. Remove wires from there and it boots perfect/shuts down perfect everytime


    I wired the monitor up to an empty hard drive power plug as I should have done to start with and problem solved

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