Another person on here said to ground the outer pin for the amp header, so I have wiring going out of the case already. Is it fine just to ground that? I'm just not sure why they would specify that the outer pin is ground if you aren't supposed to ground it.
Also, when connecting the motherboard on/off pins, which is +/-? These connect to the power button header on the motherboard, correct? From the case power button, the black wire is on the far left of the 4 pins and the red is the pin to the right of this. But it doesn't show +/- in the PSU manual, only motherboard on/off. Is it safe to assume that the polarity doesn't matter in this case?
Good to know, thanks! Just to clarify, these connect to the same pins that the power button on a case would, correct? Just want to make sure that I'm talking about the correct pins on the motherboard.
How do you control the amps without the turn on feature? Do you have a HU installed in addition to your carputer that controls the audio portion? Did you use the ground when trying the amp turn on feature? Did you connect your amps from the J6 header or the J8? Could this possibly be a firmware issue? What firmware version were you using? It looks like some thump issues were addressed in version 1.3 according to the changelog.
Yep, these pins connect to the same ones a power button would.
I have not actually tried hooking up an amp remote to my M4, but I know my M2 wouldn't turn on my amps so I never bothered with it again. I just use a simple hard switch attached to the ignition that runs to my amp remote. Just turn them on manually after the PC is up. I know it's not for everyone but it's simple enough and it works for me.
Has anyone gotten the AMP anti-thump turn on to work? and where do I connect the single remote wire from my amp to on the M4?
For installation reference:
I studied the PC board quite a bit for installing this and noticed a design trait I really didn't like that much. Mounting pads on 2 of the holes are positive (+) flowing current from the primary input. You may notice they have an extra layer of clear insulation on them. I don't like this because if one was to use metal standoffs and tighten it down too much, the IC will short against ground. In my installation I used non conductive nylon standoff's just to be sure. Just though installers should know this since it's not marked anywhere in the manual.
I'm going crazy here... I tested my install a dozen times switching the motherboard on and off using a switch instead of the M4-ATX switch. I did this so I could test the computer on/off and function it when I wanted.
...anyhow, now I hooked everything up and when I start my car the M4 switches the motherboard on as it should, it stays powered for about 20-30 seconds and shuts down AHGHGHHGH... Ok, so I have tested this and I can start the car, M4 powers up fine and if I unplug the switch from J6 & J7 on the M4 the motherboard stays powered. What would be causing the M4 to shut off when the PC switch is plugged in? Again, if I just use a switch or a screwdriver to touch the on/off pins of the motherboard it works fine... so annoying!!!
Power stays at a solid 14.34v when car is running and the ACC stays on entire time. The M4 stays powered and just goes to a flashing state (powered) so if I manually start the PC everything works. It also did this when I just touch the IGN from the M4 to the 12 v constant so it can't be the ACC. The M4 has auto latch so it should stay on for 60 seconds either way. Only ran 10 gauge wire for battery, I wonder if it isn't pulling enough on initial start/test so the M4 shuts down - Running 4 gauge when I get home
I wired the monitor up to an empty hard drive power plug as I should have done to start with and problem solved