Stop screwing with the M4 right now - it is not your problem. Plug it into a standard computer PSU and it will do the same thing.
Windows 7 hibernation control is being circumvented by one of your USB devices (probably your kb/mouse.) This happens with LOTS of USB devices.
See this link: http://superuser.com/questions/78227...oard-and-mouse
Your M4 is operating as it should - trying to power off the PC multiple times. Eventually your 1 min timer runs out, and the M4 gives up, cutting power to the mobo and keeping it off.
You said that your settings haven't changed since you upgraded from M2 - what USB devices have changed since you upgraded?
OK - but I don't see how I am screwing with the M4 by setting one DIP switch and trying both polarity settings on the on/off switch.
Anyhow, there is only one USB device connected; the touch USB for the screen. For sure, I am not disconnecting that to get the PS to work. No keyboard. No mouse.
Since the M2 I have removed all the USB devices (CANBUS, Radio, GPS, Mic, Bluetooth & FusionBrain) except for the touchscreen.
Huh. That is weird. Again, try it with a standard PSU and let us know if the behaviour continues. try that powercfg lastwake command to see what woke it up last time. some touch USB screens are detected as mice, so I wouldn't put it past it.
I just tried the command powercfg -lastwake when it did the wake after first minute. The feature that caused the wake was the powerbutton (not the non-existent keyboard or mouse).
Sorry, I take back what I said was the problem. The M4 is clearly sending the button press on you for some reason. What motherboard are you using? Are you using S1 or S3 standby mode in BIOS? Have you tried hibernation mode instead of sleep?
No problem. I'm not hating on this M4. I just want to configure it so that it works.
I'm in S3 mode and using the Quanmax KEEX-2030 board. I have not tried hibernation yet as that's usually not a good option. I'm starting to focus more on the hard connection of the green/black wire to indicate if the board is there. The power supplies using the 4-pin ATX do not boot without that connection but it may be causing a problem. Other than that, a software change of settings on the M4 may cure it. I'm grateful for all suggestions of what to try.
M4-ATX 250W and PSU EnergYzer for an Xbox 360
I am installing an Xbox 360 into my Ford F250. I purchased an M4-ATX 250W and a PSU EnergYzer. Got those in last week and purchsed a brand new Xbox 360 S. The good news is the newest Xbox only needs 9.6A on the 12V rail and 1A on the 5V rail. I found an adaptor for the old PSU EnergYser and the new Xbox 360 S.
Got everything hooked up (in the house) and running off an Optima car battery. The Xbox runs fine on the M4-ATX 250W but I am having issues with the auto startup and shutdown features of the M4-ATX. The M4-ATX is set to P1 (Dip Switch 1 on and 2 through 4 are off). After 5 seconds the M4-ATX's led truns on solid and the Xbox is ready to go but does not turn on. The fan did come on though (because I previously had it on awhile). The Xbox starts up every time manually with the power button. The unit does shutdown on its own but not until after 4 minutes and 10 seconds. On "P1" the M4-ATX is suppose to shutdown after 1 minute.
Anyone out there working on a similar setup? Do I have to find a way to wire up the (J8) motherboard ON/OFF header (pins 6 & 7)? I hope not as I thought the PSU EnergYser was supose to make this "plug and play" and a clean install. Maybe the newer slim 360 S model and the needed adaptor throws a rench into things? Any help would be much appreciated.
I bought a M3 120 Watt power supply and I assume its not enough power, I have a Core2 7500 with a Intel DQ45EK, will the M4 work with this?
Will the M4-ATX fit inside a M350 Case?
hey guys. i have resently bought one of those. it seems pretty good. but io have a problem. i have only connected + and ground ( no ignition).
The deep discharge pevention dosent seem to work... battery went down to 6volt, but the PSU didint shut down (funny, the pc was still working, even though the car couldent start.)
does it have to do with the PC working, at the time the voltage droped? or with there is no ignition? Also, what is the message you have to send, in the software , to set, the voltage cut off for deep discharge? any help would be much appriciated!!