do a search for tank circuit.....if my mind serves me correctly most people are using a 22000uf cap and a diode for this purpose
Would'nt it be possible to fit a relatively large cap between the battery and the dc-dc psu to prevent powerloss while cranking?
(If this has been asked before then please forgive my utterly useless and rude no-search-before-posting behaviour)
Christian...
Currently missing ATX DCDC power & LCD stuff =)
do a search for tank circuit.....if my mind serves me correctly most people are using a 22000uf cap and a diode for this purpose
DigitalDub
1200 mhz duron/ 384m pc133/ 6.4 gig for OS / 75 gig storage/ 32 meg Nvidia Geforce2 wit TV out / onboard sound / GPRS / 7" digitallww flip out / X10 Mouseremote / 255w inverter (temp)
Audio
Nakamichi CD-45Z HU / Monsoon amp and 8 speakers
couldn't you run some kind a relay so when the HU (if you have one) turns on the amps, it would also swich on the PC
TANK is the word run a search with it, its your best solution
A "proper" DC-DC should not have problems during cranking. If it does, there is either a problem with the electrical system in your car or the DC-DC unit.
I've said it before, and I'll say it again: tank circuits do not fix the problem, they only mask the symptoms.
Make sure you have a new, high quality battery (ie. Optima), that the grounds are all in good shape (maybe run an extra one to the engine block and frame) and that the battery terminals are clean and tight. Connect the DC-DC as directly to the battery as possible.
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