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Thread: Main power from battery

  1. #1
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    Main power wire from battery

    I'm getting ready to install the power wiring in my car for my carputer. I want to be sure I get it right the first time so I have a few questions. I have also included a few pics so you can see what I'm talking about in my car. I did do a search on google but got conflicting info or none on these and wanted to ask peopel who have done it.
    • What do I need to connect to the battery? Can I just use a normal ring terminal under the bolt on the top of the battery clamp?
    • Is there anything I need to worry about or be careful of when I drill through the firewall?
    • What should I do make a grommet to protect the wire and prevent water from leaking in?
    • Should I cover the power wire with black protective tubing while under the hood like the other wires?
    • After I get to the trunk, what is the best way to ground every thing? Any way I can do this with out putting any holes through the body of the car to the outside?
    • Any thing else I should know?


    I think that I can take care of every thing after I get into the cabin except for the grounding. Here is some other stuff you might need to be aware of to answer the questions.

    I'm using 10awg wire fused at 30A at the battery and also after the power control circuit before the inverter. On the grounding I'm going to use two 30awg wires in parallel from the control circuit to the grounding point. This ground is handling not only the inverter's ground but also the ground for a 15A fused 12V outlet circuit and the two 10A/20hr 6V UPS batteries fused at 30A.

    Here are the pics:


    This is my battery clamp.



    Above are pics of both sides of the firewall were I plan to drill through.


    This is my palm Vx I plan on using to control my carputer. Just though I would throw it in. I got this pic with the other three before the battery died.
    Comp. Specs:Shuttle SS40G, Athlon XP 1700+, 256MB DDR, 40GB HD, Belkin Desktop 802.11b card (good range), SB 128 sound (onboard is a bit noisy), DVD ROM
    Toshiba 100CS laptop, P75 40mb ram, 550MB HD, Megahertz LAN/modem PC card, modified to run off 12VDC

    Other stuff:Generic USB hub & USB to serial adapters, BS2SX power control system w/battery buffer, Jazz 300W Inverter, FM Modulator, Palm Vx, & GPS

    Status: 80% complete (Almost done with the controle boxes)

  2. #2
    Newbie
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    - Yes just use a normal ring connector to connect your power wire for the invertor to your battery

    - I would check both inside the car up around where your gas and break are to locate the best spot to drill through the fire wall, pull back the carpet and make sure things are out of the way, then check the engine compartment in the corresponding place to make sure all is clear. And make the hole bigger than the wire.

    - Yes it is highly recommended that you use a grommet, i would go to your local hardware store and get one to fit the wire first, before you drill your hole so its the right size.

    - As long as the wire has insulation around it (which all but bear wire does) then its not nessesary, but of course it wouldn't hurt.

    - On my car i grounded everything at the wheel well, make sure you sand all the paint off so you see bear metal, otherwise the ground connection won't be good. I would check the inside of the trunk for a place thats connected to the frame to ground the wire, and wouldn't worry much about it being to the outside of the car.

    Also you want the gauge of your gound wire to match that of your power wire, bigger ground is better, and you were talking about the gound wire being smaller, which is something you shouldn't really do. Also with all the stuff your talking about grounding, i might recommended that you go with a 4 gauge ground wire to play it safe.

  3. #3
    FLAC
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    I second all above 100%

    usually you have a spare hole in the firewall, that may be covered up with a pop-out rubber plate.... I know that was the case with my swift.... but it doesn't have an Air Con, so it may have been there for that purpose...
    Project - GAME OVER :(

  4. #4
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    Thank you both very much! Sorry about the typo of two 30awg wires, it was suppose to be two 10awg wires. I actually wanted to have a 8awg wire for my main and something like a 6awg or 4awg grounding wire but I couldn't find any around here for a decent price.

    For the last month or more I thought that the round hole in the second picture went all the way through. But, I was stupid enough not to check until last week. Heck Toyota doesn’t even make a manual Avalon, that foam area I think is just the one form the Camry. The only area I could find to pass it trough the main wire port through the fire wall but I cant get to the inside part of it. I'm just going to run the wire next to the alarm system siren (pic 2 & 3) and if I sale the car I can just fill it with some black goo to match the other hole.
    Comp. Specs:Shuttle SS40G, Athlon XP 1700+, 256MB DDR, 40GB HD, Belkin Desktop 802.11b card (good range), SB 128 sound (onboard is a bit noisy), DVD ROM
    Toshiba 100CS laptop, P75 40mb ram, 550MB HD, Megahertz LAN/modem PC card, modified to run off 12VDC

    Other stuff:Generic USB hub & USB to serial adapters, BS2SX power control system w/battery buffer, Jazz 300W Inverter, FM Modulator, Palm Vx, & GPS

    Status: 80% complete (Almost done with the controle boxes)

  5. #5
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    Make sure if you do as magnetik said and run a wire through a rubber popout type thing in your firewall, that you fill in that area with some silicon, dynamat or something afterwards. I ran a battery wire in my car in that way, and for the longest time it never dawned on me why I suddenly had so much engine noise in the car.

  6. #6
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    Small problem: There are no rubber pop-outs in an Avalon's firewall! I would use it if there was one.

    Edit I just looked back over what you said and if you mean I need to use a rubber grommet I was already going to do that.
    Comp. Specs:Shuttle SS40G, Athlon XP 1700+, 256MB DDR, 40GB HD, Belkin Desktop 802.11b card (good range), SB 128 sound (onboard is a bit noisy), DVD ROM
    Toshiba 100CS laptop, P75 40mb ram, 550MB HD, Megahertz LAN/modem PC card, modified to run off 12VDC

    Other stuff:Generic USB hub & USB to serial adapters, BS2SX power control system w/battery buffer, Jazz 300W Inverter, FM Modulator, Palm Vx, & GPS

    Status: 80% complete (Almost done with the controle boxes)

  7. #7
    Retired Admin Aaron Cake's Avatar
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    Your battery clamp is dead. I would suggest replacing it. As far as holes through the firewall, just drill one and install a grommit.

    Also, thread moved to a more appropriate forum.
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