Thread: M1-ATX Wiring Questions

Originally Posted by Maegnas

Ok so I'm down to wiring up my M1. The power supply includes the Negative, Positive, and Ignition Wires (J11, J12, J13). These are short and need extensions obviously to reach the battery, ignition, and ground. My question is what gauge wire (approximately) would be adequate for these wires? I have 14 gauge running my to my speakers.

Also, the connection for the ON/OFF on the motherboard... is it safe to use the connectors from an old computer motherboard, then just solder the end that doesn't have a connector directly to the pins? Or is there a better way of doing it?

Also, the wire running from the Power Supply to the battery... do I need a fuse (besides the one on the power supply) between the battery and the power supply? (Like the in-line used for the Amp-Battery wiring?)

Finally, I'm pretty sure that I get that the remote leads off of my amps come into the power supply, then go out from there so that the amps turn on after the computer. My question is where do they go from the power supply, do I just hook in to the old ignition wire coming into my dash from my old head unit? That's what I've gotten through searches, but am still a little unsure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Add a fused connector to the battery, or wherever you tap into hot power. Otherwise, you could get a short in the wire passing through the firewall or if the lead comes off the PS you would create a serious fire issue
The wire should be 8GA to be safe. You COULD use 12GA but why, when the cost of the extra thickness really isn't too much different. The negative pigtail can be attached to a ring terminal and fixed to whatever bolt is nearby, make sure it's a good grounded position. You could use the amp power supply line, and tap into that if your amp and PC will live closeby each other and prevents the need for running an extra cable.

You can use the remote lead on your head unit to power it all up at the same time if you choose. This makes the PC shut down when you kill the radio as well. Or you could be wierd and connect the power supply of the PC to the ignition switched lead for the stereo.......

OH YEAH! and the PC header cable.... go to a PC repair place (ma and pa store, you know... some hole-in-the-wall) and get a header cable from them. Or, solder two of the header cables together from an old PC.

Originally Posted by Maegnas

Ok so I'm down to wiring up my M1. The power supply includes the Negative, Positive, and Ignition Wires (J11, J12, J13). These are short and need extensions obviously to reach the battery, ignition, and ground. My question is what gauge wire (approximately) would be adequate for these wires? I have 14 gauge running my to my speakers.

12awg should be sufficient for a short run.
I'd use 10awg to be save.

Also, the connection for the ON/OFF on the motherboard... is it safe to use the connectors from an old computer motherboard, then just solder the end that doesn't have a connector directly to the pins? Or is there a better way of doing it?

If you're going to solder anyway, solder two jumper leads together, so you have a two-pin jumper on each end.

Also, the wire running from the Power Supply to the battery... do I need a fuse (besides the one on the power supply) between the battery and the power supply? (Like the in-line used for the Amp-Battery wiring?)

YES! YES! A thousand times YES!
Put a fuse within a foot of the battery terminal. This is to protect the wire in case of overload. If it shorts out, the wire will be overloaded and heat up, making a fire hazard.

Finally, I'm pretty sure that I get that the remote leads off of my amps come into the power supply, then go out from there so that the amps turn on after the computer. My question is where do they go from the power supply, do I just hook in to the old ignition wire coming into my dash from my old head unit? That's what I've gotten through searches, but am still a little unsure.

You can use the IGN line for the PC. The M1 has an amp turn-on circuit that you can wire into, as well.
This will turn on the amps a bit later in the chain to help reduce the "thump" from the audio source turning on while the amps are already on & sending signal to the speakers.

no, the remote wire doesn't have to be 10awg. it's a low-current line just used as a 'trigger'.

if the onboard fuse is rated at 10A then that will also be fine for your main fuse.