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Thread: Is this ok?

  1. #1
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    Is this ok?

    Hi guys,

    I need some advise please. I am wanting to put my sub and amp in my car and want a sub box that look fitted but I can remove when needed.

    No I have never done anything like this before and I am cr*p at all DIY, but I will have a go and see how I do. I am wanting to use an Anderson connector for the power/earth as the amp will be in the sub box aswell, then the power can be easily disconnected. Somebody at work said that it would not be suitable for the job, is that the case? also will 4AWG cable fit in to a 50amp Anderson connector for crimping?

    Does this sound ok:
    Battery -> 30amp fuse -> Anderson connector -> 1 Farad cap -> Rockford Fosgate P4002 (2x30amp fuses in-built)
    Its not going to set me car on fire or something is it?


    Cheers

    Guy

  2. #2
    Maximum Bitrate FusionFanatic's Avatar
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    first off, your question(s) have nothing to do with PC power supplies, you should have posted this in the car audio section. but to answer your questions; the short answers are:
    1. no, that connector is not suitable for the job you wish to use it for.
    2. no, 4awg wire will not fit into the SB50 connector.

    the long answers are:

    1. your amplifier has two 30A fuses, that means that it can draw up to ~60A at full load. you wiring, connectors, and main power fuse should be capable of handling at least 60A. the SB50 connector does not meet this 60A requirement.

    however... if you never turn it up loud then it won't draw as much current so you could get away with using wire and connectors rated for less current as long as the main power fuse is rated for no more current than the weakest component can handle (example, if your wire can handle 120A but the SB50 connector can only handle 50A, then that is the weakest link. this mean that your entire system is only good for up to 50A, so your main power fuse should be no more than 50A. this will be safe, but if your amp draws more than 50A, then you'll be replacing alot of fuses )

    2. the 50A anderson SB50 connector is designed for up to 6awg wire, if you're going to use 4awg wire then you should use the 175A anderson SB175 connector. if you insist on using a connector for your power/ground wires then this would be a better option. this way you don't have to worry about using a connector that cannot handle the current that your amplifier may require.

    also, I would not recommend putting an amplifier inside a subwoofer box. amplifiers get hot, they need air to circulate around them to carry the heat away. if you leave it inside a sealed box then there is no place for the heat to go.

    good luck

  3. #3
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    really appreciate the write up FusionFanatic, makes alot more sense to me now. You should do a tutorial or something so others can learn aswell, you explained it really well.

    anyway thanks for the advice mate. I have ordered a pair of these 12v 175amp Anderson plugs, look just the ticket to me.
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...308%26_fvi%3D1





    You are right about the heat ventilation issue, which I have been thinking about. So far I have been thinking about two 40/80mm 5v fans on the top of the box, acting as like an exhaust as heat rises. And maybe the same at front of the box at the bottom as an intake. But not sure how I would power these? hook up to remote cable???

    thanks for wishing me luck.... think i'm gona need it! lol

  4. #4
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    I found the spec for my amp

    Rockford Fosgate P4002 (2 Channel Amp)


  5. #5
    Self proclaimed spoon feeder TruckinMP3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GKRAMER View Post

    You are right about the heat ventilation issue, which I have been thinking about. So far I have been thinking about two 40/80mm 5v fans on the top of the box, acting as like an exhaust as heat rises. And maybe the same at front of the box at the bottom as an intake. But not sure how I would power these? hook up to remote cable???

    thanks for wishing me luck.... think i'm gona need it! lol
    Are you saying you want to build a sub box with holes in it to vent the hot air from the amps?

    For your own good, learn about making speaker enclosures before you start cutting. I suspect the sub box should either have no holes or have a very specific hole for it to sound right.

    I am not a speaker tech but know that you should learn more before building the box.

    Here are a few links from a quick Google that might help:
    http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm
    http://www.fatmat.com/new%20temp/software/index.htm
    http://www.ajdesigner.com/speaker/index.php
    http://www.importtuner.com/features/...gns/index.html

    Cheers
    TruckinMP3
    D201GLY2, DC-DC power, 3.5 inch SATA

    Yes, you should search... and Yes, It has been covered before!

    Read the FAQ!

  6. #6
    Maximum Bitrate FusionFanatic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GKRAMER View Post
    You are right about the heat ventilation issue, which I have been thinking about. So far I have been thinking about two 40/80mm 5v fans on the top of the box, acting as like an exhaust as heat rises. And maybe the same at front of the box at the bottom as an intake. But not sure how I would power these? hook up to remote cable??
    1. cooling fans should work fine, but you will need to make your sub/amp box a two compartment enclosure (one compartment for the sub, and another/separate compartment for the amp) because the subwoofer needs its own sealed (or properly ported) enclosure.

    2. you don't need both intake and exhaust fans, just choose one or the other and drill holes in the other end of the amp compartment to act as intake or exhaust vents.

    3. if you're going to use cooling fans, then it would be easier to use12v fans (not 5v) so you can power them from the amplifier's power line.

    4. the REM line cannot provide enough current to directly power the fans, but you can use it as a trigger line to control a relay. if you go this route, then I would use the REM line only as the relay trigger, and use the relay switched output to power the fans and the amplifier's REM input. here is a quick schematic of how to wire it all up:
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the inputs guys.

    Fusion that is great, diagram is excellent as well thank you. Think i'll use fans for intake and just have some holes on the top as vents for when the heat rises.

    Cheers

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