You need to use the P1 settings as explained in the manual...are you sure you have pin 1 correctly identified? Make sure your not jumpered on P8 by mistake.
Originally Posted by chibimateo
You should not be able to hook up a switch to the board instead of the M2 and switch the PC on/off.
Also, are you sure you have the power + and - and the ACC wired in correctly?? Sounds like you could be powering the PC off the ACC line instead of a dedicated power line...
Read the manual...then read it again, and then one more time to be sure :)
There is a thread somewhere describing your problems with a solution...check the M2 and M4 topics...
Also, I think the leads for the ATX switch on the M2 are polarized. Make sure you get the + with the +
Ive tried swapping the power-on leads, swapping the +12V and IGN, tie both +12V and IGN to +12V and all the behaviors lead me to belive that i have it wired correctly. Everything, minus the sound card, will work properly on my lab bench in my appartment, but when i put it in my car it doesnt work properly. i dont get it.
I'll check the Pin 1/Pin 8 as you mentioned when I get home (I'm at work now, and I don't have the manual in front of me, either), but from what I'd seen of the settings, the jumper settings have been relatively following what I would expect, minus the power being cut momentarily when ACC is turned off.
Originally Posted by WuNgUn
I'm not hooking a switch directly to the board (though that actually should work fine, since P9 is actually just wired in parallel to P8 according to the manual); I have the switch hooked to P9, as it is designed to do.
I checked the connections to POS, GND, and ACC several times before connecting it in the first place, and from what I'm experiencing, it doesn't sound possible that I could have any of those mixed up (it still has power to the board when ACC is turned off, aside from the moment it is turned off), but I'll check those again.
I've read and reread the manual probably close to 100 times, including times before I bought it when I was just researching the functionality, but I won't discount the idea that I could be missing something.
From what I've read about the polarization on the pins, I wouldn't be able to get the level of functionality I currently have if it wasn't polarized (and I've also read that the polarization is no longer an issue with current boards, which mine should be), but I can check that, too.
If you happen to know what thread talked about the solution you mention, please send it our way. I've looked all around at anything mentioning the M2 that I could find, but I hadn't seen any actual solutions.
@ Wungun: Thanks. I'll check those links out and see if they help. From the looks of the URLs, it looks like threads I've already read, but when I have more time this evening, I'll look through them and see if there is anything I've missed or haven't tried.
As far as the manual, I've looked through the one hosted on mp3car.com, as well as the one on mini-box.com. They have a few differences (the one on mini-box.com is more updated with info about jumper settings on the D pins as well as the 1 minute latching of power after startup), but neither have any information that helps with this problem.
More and more, it looks like doing the RMA on the M2 is probably going to be necessary, but getting the Opus is NOT a solution. I've mentioned it before, but I don't have the space in my install for the Opus, and from everything I've seen, a properly functioning Opus (any model) won't give me anything better for my purposes than a properly functioning M2.
Where are you taking your 12v power from? Do you have a line directly from the battery or are you wiring to something off the acc line?
Good point...the + and - going into the M2 MUST be constant, not switched!
Originally Posted by elstev0
The M2 must always have the power available, whether the car is on or off.
I'm having a 'Duh!' moment right now...lol
That HAS to be the issue...
Good one elstev0!
12V constant power is like so:
Battery + --> fuse --> 4g wire --> distribution block --> 8g wire --> M2
Ground is similar:
Chassis ground --> 4g wire --> distribution block --> 8g wire --> M2
The switched line comes from the radio harness, but that's the only part that's switched.
Also, it would be impossible to have my problem if the full power was connected to a switched 12V source: (aside from the cranking problem, which is really not an issue to me) when the key is turned off, it loses power to the computer momentarily (but my multimeter doesn't show any drop in the battery voltage, so it's either too short for the multimeter to detect or it's only happening on the M2 output), but then has power, so the computer can stay on after the key is out (and therefore no switched power).
I read through those threads and I'd already tried everything that applies to my situation aside from 2 things:
Originally Posted by WuNgUn
Haven't tried a capacitor in parallel with the battery. Honestly it's a pretty awful idea in that place for the reasons explained in various threads here.
Haven't tried a tank circuit. I'm not altogether opposed to this, but it would be a pain to do more routing of wires for that and finding a place to store the battery, and it would be shelling out money for something I really shouldn't need. I may end up resorting to this, but I think RMA on the M2 is a higher priority than that, since the M2 SHOULD be doing everything that the tank circuit is trying to fix.