Yes it is. I have a case that I keep in my trunk.
So you're saying that by disconnecting your amps, crossover, and RCA signal lines... you were able to kill the interference in your truck?
I got a little confused with your post, in reference to the PC being in your van.
Very well could be a ground loop if I'm understanding correctly
So I had to figure out why they wouldn't co-exist in my truck. I'd already disconnected EVERYTHING from the PC, but I still had the audio system installed and functioning. Last step was to disconnect and power down all of that, too.
I've been reading a lot about ground loops the last few days and although the main complaint there is hum in the speakers, there are a few mentions of radio interference. So now I'm going to start going through some troubleshooting for ground loops and try and get everything put back together. I'm sure there will be some ground loop isolators involved.
So What do you suggest if I don't have an amp?
I just have the carPC with a car2PC that goes into my factory HU. I unplugged the speaker line from my pc while it was on and still got interference. I do have a mic ext cord plugged in. But there is no input on it. I ordered a ground loop iso. But it hasn't gotten here yet. I do get alternator whine sometimes so I figure I'm gonna need it anyway.
How do you suggest I start narrowing down my problem?
Hey, bandaids are good with me. It should be here in a few days.
In the mean time. What else can anyone suggest to possibly help with this issue?
Avoid ground loops (use a ground distribution block to ground multiple components to the same spot), seal your computer in a grounded metal case, keep the PC as far away as possible from your radio, keep any cords leaving your PC to a minimum length and away from your antenna cable, and use ferrite beads and/or cable shielding where possible. Place ferrite beads as close to the source of interference as possible (so in most cases, snap them onto the wires just outside your PC case)
You can also try upgrading the ground cables in your engine compartment (alternator to chassis, block to chassis, battery negative to chassis, etc). Some people swear it makes a difference..... I have no experience in trying that
I don't know what a car2pc is, but I suggest you do what I did, which is to turn off EVERYTHING in your system except the PC and the Visteon. Then disconnect ALL of the audio cables that interconnect them, including inbetween the PC and the Visteon. I also do not have Mitch's cable connected between the PC and Visteon. And from all of my previous troubleshooting, I have the monitor turned off and disconnected as well as my USB hub, CD-DVD, and GPS mouse. In other words, the ONLY two things running are the PC and the Visteon. You'll have to use the Visteon supplied controller and either a pair of headphones or maybe a battery powered boom-box to hear the Visteon. That's how far down I had to strip my system to eliminate the interference.
Now I start powering things back up one at a time, AFTER which I start re-connecting the audio cables.
What are ferrite beads?
and a car2PC is an adapter which allows a 3.5mm input into this little box, which converts the sound into different wires and whatnot that the factory HU (Mazda in my case) and allows you to play the audio through the HU, essentially it's adding an aux jack.
Remember, I don't have an aftermarket amp or anything like that. The interference only comes when the pc itself if powered on. The screen has no audible effect.