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Thread: Are the M#-ATX PSUs supposed to be avoided like the plague?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by justchat_1 View Post
    Then you weren't hibernating...you were most likely doing a hybrid suspend. Hibernation and shutdown are the same thing hardware wise-the only difference is the data stored on the disk.
    Other users on this forum have had the same problem using hibernation on the m-2, I am positive that I was not using suspend as that would have drained the battery much faster and my resume speed would have also been faster but I cannot now tell you what jumper settings I was using since I have been doing a full reboot for the past year.

  2. #12
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    if you ask yourself the question...do not buy it.....

  3. #13
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    I bought an M4 a couple months ago and have had absolutely no problems with it. From what I understand the first few batches of M4's sold had firmware issues that have since been fixed.

  4. #14
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    well... i expected that most of you guys are not going to like my post.
    and yes the inverter route is "longer", less efficient, noise issue is the simplest thing to eliminate with an inverter, and it WORKS ! ALWAYS !
    i agree that these PSUs have more functions, bbut they are still overpriced, yes the same way as LCD, and yes it is because of the demand on them.
    still most of our projects are a bit pricey to start with, but that doesnt mean we will pay ANY price for these devices, some of you might.
    and regarding china, its an excelent point, i have a list of manufacturers in china and taiwan, im going to email them the requirments and see what kind of pricing they can quote me...
    and guys, stop flaming me, i clearly said "personal opinion"...(;
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergatiuk View Post
    well... i expected that most of you guys are not going to like my post.
    and yes the inverter route is "longer", less efficient, noise issue is the simplest thing to eliminate with an inverter, and it WORKS ! ALWAYS !
    i agree that these PSUs have more functions, bbut they are still overpriced, yes the same way as LCD, and yes it is because of the demand on them.
    still most of our projects are a bit pricey to start with, but that doesnt mean we will pay ANY price for these devices, some of you might.
    and regarding china, its an excelent point, i have a list of manufacturers in china and taiwan, im going to email them the requirments and see what kind of pricing they can quote me...
    and guys, stop flaming me, i clearly said "personal opinion"...(;
    The reason I use the DC-DC power supplies is because I want my computer to turn on/off automatically. Prices for goods in a niche market like this will always be high because the demand is too low for the companies to make a decent profit without raising the prices. Since the amount of units sold by the company is low they do not have the financial resources to buy huge amounts of parts in bulk so they do not get nearly as good discounts on components as other big name companies do. You also have to consider the time and effort of the people who build these items, most of them are made by small groups of people that make these items because they enjoy the hobby. When these people are making prototype boards they get charged a ton of money since they aren't making orders in bulk.

    You will definitely find that most Chinese made components are cheaper but that is because they are of inferior quality compared to the rest of the world. Cheap components bought from china will have a higher chance of failure and lower reliability due to the quality. Check out a site like mouser.com and you will see that the individual component costs really start to add up.

    This is true for any hobby, I also made a arcade machine that ran MAME and required some circuit boards to interface the arcade buttons to the computer. This board cost me $40 and it is just a keyboard encoder. These hobbies aren't cheap

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergatiuk View Post
    yada yada yada...(;
    Just FYI, my original install used an inverter, in fact I went through two of them.

    I now use a DC-Dc and must say I am a lot happier for it.

  7. #17
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    WOW! Talk about an active forum!...

    See, I'm teetering between full PC install vs. my beloved Eclipse headunit/PC hybrid....

    One thing (being a mobile electronics nut) I've learned is that ground is critical...I mean it is what will make or break your equipment. I remember seeing some cars with long...and I mean 8+ foot long, grounds, which in car audio is so far beyond unacceptable it's not even funny. I think I'll give it a shot.

    People complain about problems far more then they brag about things that work.
    Kind of how it's easier to create doubt, but harder than hell to instill confidence...

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by RavenII View Post
    WOW! Talk about an active forum!...

    See, I'm teetering between full PC install vs. my beloved Eclipse headunit/PC hybrid....

    One thing (being a mobile electronics nut) I've learned is that ground is critical...I mean it is what will make or break your equipment. I remember seeing some cars with long...and I mean 8+ foot long, grounds, which in car audio is so far beyond unacceptable it's not even funny. I think I'll give it a shot.



    Kind of how it's easier to create doubt, but harder than hell to instill confidence...
    I had the same question you did when I bought my 2nd power supply. Check out my post.
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/powe...4-atx-yet.html
    I was surprised at the amount of attention the thread got, it has a lot of useful information.

    This is another thread regarding the M4.
    What's Your M4 Look Like?

    Oh and a couple of things I think you should know if you buy a M4.
    I think this problem is fixed but make sure you use insulated stand offs when mounting the board.
    Buy the board from the manufacturers website.http://www.mini-box.com/M4-ATX
    And Finally make sure you read the entire manual and make sure you know what you are doing 100%. On my first carpc setup I did not understand completely what I was doing and this caused me a lot of problems. I scrapped my first setup because of the pc limitations(stupid dell) and bought the M4 and thoroughly read the manual and I had no problems.
    Good luck.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by RavenII View Post
    WOW! Talk about an active forum!...

    See, I'm teetering between full PC install vs. my beloved Eclipse headunit/PC hybrid....

    One thing (being a mobile electronics nut) I've learned is that ground is critical...I mean it is what will make or break your equipment. I remember seeing some cars with long...and I mean 8+ foot long, grounds, which in car audio is so far beyond unacceptable it's not even funny. I think I'll give it a shot.

    actually, it is generally acceptable to have the shortest ground wire possible, but i am starting to plan running my ground directly from the trunk to the battery, nothing wrong with it, just against the norm--- because of my cars unibody contruction--thin, spot welded, sheet metal--i get noise problems that no amount of grounding, or moving cables seem to help (i have drastically changed my setup 3 times now--and have always had noise, even with all audio equipment relocated to the trunk w/ common ground).

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
    actually, it is generally acceptable to have the shortest ground wire possible, but i am starting to plan running my ground directly from the trunk to the battery, nothing wrong with it, just against the norm--- because of my cars unibody contruction--thin, spot welded, sheet metal--i get noise problems that no amount of grounding, or moving cables seem to help (i have drastically changed my setup 3 times now--and have always had noise, even with all audio equipment relocated to the trunk w/ common ground).
    Just twist the two cables around each other when you do the run and it shouldn't be too bad.

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