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Reply With QuoteI've had an M2-ATX in my first install that I transferred over to my second install (for a total of 3 years)..
I also just bought another M2 for my wife's new vehicle.. So yea, I like the M2's and I think they are worth the money..
So explain how a standalone inverter can automatically start and stop a pc. And since they cant, how much would it cost you for a startup/shutdown controller for them? Is it still that cheap of an option?Originally Posted by sergatiuk
I don't think anyones flaming-just expressing opinions
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I've had an M2-ATX in my first install that I transferred over to my second install (for a total of 3 years)..
I also just bought another M2 for my wife's new vehicle.. So yea, I like the M2's and I think they are worth the money..
Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro
Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger
Im going to be ordering a handful of M2ATX power supplies for a few carputers I am building... hope I dont have any issues. Ive never used one of them longterm on a daily basis...
i made this controller about a year or 2 ago, its a simple relay,capacitor circuit, you can find the schematics here on the forum, i dont remmeber the exact thread. the total cost of it was $5-$10, in my setup i used a laptop, so its the perfect combination, because it has an internal battery that is more then enough to put the lappy into hibernate after the power is cut out.So explain how a standalone inverter can automatically start and stop a pc. And since they cant, how much would it cost you for a startup/shutdown controller for them? Is it still that cheap of an option?
I don't think anyones flaming-just expressing opinions
now in a case of a standalone mobo, the easiest way to achieve this is with 2 raly modules, one to start it on ignition and the other to cut the power to the inverter after the mobo goes to hibernate, this cab be achieved in a few ways, put a relay on any mobo output - a 5V relay on a USB port, a 12V relay on a firewire port, or 4 pin connector from PSU or any other connector. and once power to the port is cut the relay cuts the power to the inverter, so you dont drain the battery...then again on IGN/ACC the relay powers up the inverter and the relay module with the capacitor sends on signal...
basicaly, in short its a total of no more then $15 at the shack...
noise problem is solved by grounding the pc case and mobo to chasis.
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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab SR5
>"Say what you mean and mean what you say"<
the ONLY drawback of this setup is efficiency...
but simplicity, durability and reliability is the end result of this setup.
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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab SR5
>"Say what you mean and mean what you say"<
So explain how a standalone inverter can automatically start and stop a pc. And since they cant, how much would it cost you for a startup/shutdown controller for them? Is it still that cheap of an option?
I don't think anyones flaming-just expressing opinions
I'm not taking up for this guy....But I use a 200w $10 cheap *** inverter from fry's on my amd3000 for a yr1 or 2.
As for your Q(So explain how a standalone inverter can automatically start and stop a pc. And since they cant, how much would it cost you for a startup/shutdown controller)
It's call use two of these ELK-960 Delay Timer that I got for $10 each. This was 2yrs ago.
Thats exactly what I was going to say-except for the last three....i think simple would be a single board you have in your case that handles everything -> not an inverter two relays and a transformer. Same comments about durability and reliability for a single component solider state board verse the inverter based setup.
soloxp:
there about $20 these days:
http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...-960&scoring=p
Two of those (make that three if you want amp control)...plus the price of the inverter, plus the hackjob wiring solution, huge potential for noise (inverters generate noise in both directions) and complete lack of fail safes....is it really worth the $20 savings? For me it wasn't, but then again my carpc is in hybrid suspend most of the time. Again thats my opinion, obviously others may disagree.
openMobile - An open source C# Front End (why choose openMobile?)
- Always Recruiting Developers -
Like what you see? Donations are always welcome
lol you are right, but that isnt the simplicity i was refering to. yes you have more wires and devices, but by simplicity i ment that the devices in use are simple, there is no programmable PSUs, no timings, and no complex circuit boards that as we already discussed cannot be made for $10 lol. inverter, transformer, a couple of relays and a couple of capacitors.
one of the reasons why cars are built of many small parts and not one solid piece is because things do "go wrong". in which case you would replace the broken part and not the car. this applies to my setup. if something go wrong i replace a $3 relay,or a $0.5 capacitor or a $20 inverter, not a $90 power supply. personnaaly i prefer to rely on a few simple and cheap components then one "overpriced" one.
also, as i said, noise is eliminated by grounding the pc case and the mobo to chassis. you would be surprised how many threads and posts ive seen here of people having noise issues with the DC-DC PSUs
the bottom line, a PSU is a matter of preferance, one might choose to go the easy route and grab a DC-DC PSU while another might find it better to go with a cheaper inverter option.
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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab SR5
>"Say what you mean and mean what you say"<
you see a lot of complaints because a lot of people have them. $70 for an m2 is a fair price, they are well designed and very reliable when used properly.
Never had a probelm with my M2-ATX, probably the only part of the install I can say this about.
Wired it in and forgot about it.
No chance I would swap it for an inverter and all the work that's involved there, not to mention the size difference.
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