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Thread: Anyone Try one of these? (ROEM-X OEM Keyless Entry Input Circuit)

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curiosity View Post
    Do you have a DMM? I've been looking at different manuals, but some look like translations with very little explanations. The ones on compustar just say 1/2 second button press,but also say they are for window rollup modules and such which take a negative pulse.
    No I don't have one but just ordered one on ebay for 10 bucks. I'll do some research into this and will buy the module if it is compatible. Thanks

  2. #22
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    Good. Everyone needs a DMM. They are very useful and can save a lot on electronics and fire extinguishers. Well, google says the compustar AUX outputs are negative with a 5 second pulse on quite a few models. That's what I expected. The way those work is they are open when off, and grounded when on. The ROEM-N can take that directly because it has an internal pullup. The P model is triggered by power changes. It assumes 12V is going to be on the wire or will be when the button is pressed.

  3. #23
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    Here is my wiring layout (Neon SRT-4) does this mean I can only use 1 wire mode? or can I connect both to the lock and unlock to the same LIGHT GREEN wire and have it some how know the difference?

    AllDoorTrigger RED/BLACK (-) DRIVERS A PILLAR
    PowerUnLock LIGHT GREEN (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVERS KICKPANEL
    PowerLock LIGHT GREEN (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVERS KICKPANEL

    I have everything else wired in and working, the button works and timers seem to work based on button presses.

    Thanks,
    Dave

  4. #24
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    Oh great. Dodge uses a 1-wire system. I was looking at this one, but the others are similar with different values.
    http://www.modifiedlife.com/1999-dod...-wire-diagram/

    It looks like everything in the alarm system goes through that 1 wire. I'm sorry. It's not going to work. I'd have to redesign it with an A/D input and I'm not sure what the different values would be without testing. If you could find the lock/unlock output wires it would still work though. Those are the wires going to the solenoids in the doors.

  5. #25
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    i got the ROEM-X hooked up correctly today , but its not turning on the PSU. When i hit the lock button the led blinks, but my pc wont come on when i press unlock OR when i start the car (override) what gives?
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  6. #26
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    Great to hear! Well, sort of. It sounds like the input is setup right, but the PC ACC isn't. What's the green wire connected to? It should go to the PSU ACC/IGN input.

  7. #27
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    it is.. and the blue wire is connected to the red (switched 12v) from the wiring harness where the radio was installed. And looking into it further.. it seems the light starts blinking as soon as the key is removed from the ignition, not when the lock button is pressed. Unlocking after the light has stopped blinking makes the light blink again.
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  8. #28
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    I think you pressed the button or hit unlock then turned the key off? That's the stay-on feature which starts the timer. When it's blinking, the timer is active. But when that's on, the PC should be on.

  9. #29
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    i'm gonna do some multimeter testing and see where the ACC line fails. I'll let you know in a few minutes.
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  10. #30
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    Good. The green wire should read 12V when the key is on, 0 when off. Tap the button and it will go on and off (timer blinks when on). Lock and unlock should do the same (timer blinks when on). See if those are reversed?

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