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Thread: benchtest automotive PSU with desktop PSU?

  1. #1
    Constant Bitrate chronoglass's Avatar
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    benchtest automotive PSU with desktop PSU?

    So the usual obligitory background. computers.. love em, build em, break em, hate em... want one in my car.. fin.

    So i order my parts.. and of course realize I probably got a bad package deal but im not too worried about it if I did.

    Motherboard: zotac ionitx-d-e
    PSU: m1-atx 90w <-here's my worry

    So i've been doing the install and such on the desk with a 300 watt desktop PSU i had lieing around.. and thought to myself.. I bet I could use this desktop psu to test if the m1 had the juice for the motherboard

    So i shorted the MB pins and ran the 12v connectors over to the m1.. and nothing, fan on the 300w spins for a second then cuts out.

    I'm hoping someone has some insight as to why a desktop psu couldn't be used to "bench test" the automotive psu's (I figure there MUST be some reason, otherwise there would be a step by step faq hangin out here somewhere)

    So yeah, thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    Sonicxtacy02's Avatar
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    i do it all the time. Take your 12v and acc wires from the m1 and connect them to a yellow line off the bench psu. Black goes to ground of course. Then you'll need to take the green wire from the bench psu and touch it to ground to turn the PSU on. You should then see the power led on your m1 light up and your ready to go.
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  3. #3
    Maximum Bitrate Crinos's Avatar
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    As Sonic said... Just connect it to a regular PSU.

    A quick Google, and your sett to go:
    http://club.myce.com/f7/splicing-sta...rboard-170182/

    http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Com...b-Power-Supply

  4. #4
    Constant Bitrate chronoglass's Avatar
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    i'll be giving it a shot tonight. at the very least I have some new vocabulary to use for google searches! thanks

  5. #5
    Constant Bitrate chronoglass's Avatar
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    so tonight meant a few weeks later.. as is usually the case.

    I tried to get as close as I could to the instructions (and other instructions like them i've found) without actually cutting any wires. Because i'd sorta rather not need to canabalize another computer for it's atx power supply. but I keep getting the same result no matter how I wire the thing up.

    I've jumped the power on pins so it will power without a problem and stay on, but then if I try to draw from any +12v line.. the psu shuts off along with the carputer. im guessing there is another safety in there somewhere, perhaps the grey "power ok" line? I can't find too much more info on that anywhere, other than it turns into 5.5v after a bit.

    maybe i just need to move on to another power supply that might not have this weird constraint?

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