Problems with battery draining is usually due to improper wiring and/or use of standby mode for extended periods of time.
All, I have been reading through various threads and searching a bit. I can't seem to get my arms around the best way to power the carputer. For my setup, I want the carputer to respond as quick as possible and be under 30 seconds at anytime. I understand the need for an occasional reboot...
I have seen some of the threads on the power supplies draining batteries while looking for the ignition source. My issue is that my car will often sit at the airport in covered parking for a week without being started. It can also sit the weekend in the garage.
Because of my demand for a quick start up, I don't think shutting down the carputer is an option. I think hibernation or hybrid sleep would be the way to go. How are you handling the quick start up without draining the battery? I am looking at using an Intel DG45FC board if that matters.
Thanks. So when it comes to the M4-ATX, I thought this continually consumes power when in standby mode. Is this not correct?
What other solutions are folks using?
All PCs consume power during standby mode, regardless of power supply (DC-DC or AC-DC).
IF you don't want to draw power, use hibernation or a full shut down, then set your M4 to cut all power off after a certain period of time.
my computer takes about 45 to 50 seconds to boot and have music playing from a cold turn on. I use Ride Runner.
i have one of these PSU's, it has a timer function so after you shut you computer down, 45 ses later it disconnects itself from the power, and then uses no power.
genius-pc GP83 160W
i have a small switch on the power line which i just turn off then back on and then it starts up again..
Thanks for the link to the PSU. I am just about through with the planning stage of PSU based on all the input here and reading the many threads. Now, I am on to audio planning and how many amps I need for my exisintg OEM speaker FL, FR, RL, RR and Center with a planned sub install.
does your center channel have its own amp channel, or does it combine the fl, and fr signals?
I don't know for sure as I have yet to tear into it. It is still the OEM Bose Audiopilot system in there now. If I want the 5.1 then the center channel would need its own and not tied to the FR/FL. I have actually been bouncing back and forth between tieing it in and a true 5.1.
The hurdle I have in my mind is how to power the speakers. Right now, the factory consists of:
Location Size Depth
Front 9" 3"
Front Tweeters 2" 1"
Center 1 3.25" 2"
Rear 6X9" 2.5"
Rear Tweeters 2" 2"
With these speakers and matching the proper power rating with crossovers will get expensive fast. My thought to do it all the way would be to:
Amp 4chnl - Front & Rear
Amp 4chnl - Front & Rear Tweeters
Amp 2chnl bridge - Center
Amp mono or 2chnl bridge - Sub
Four amps is just crazy, so I was thinking that I would just run the tweeters in parallel off each channel.
i doubt you will be able to find a center channel speaker that can handle a bridged amp.
you will probably need to use a 4channel for the front, and rear, with passive crossovers for the tweets, a 2 channel-- using 1 of the channels for the center, and leaving the other open, and then the sub amp..
Thanks for the feedback. Yes on the center channel. My thought was that if I could find a smaller amp and bridge, I could save space and cost.
The whole audio portion has been the one area that has me concerned about the whole carputer.