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Thread: Power wiring.

  1. #1
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    Power wiring.

    Originally posted in mewbie section but i think its better off here to get a reply

    At the moment i have a 400W amp and a 1600W amp powering component speakers and a sub. The sub has a power cap and is all in the boot. I want to put my computer in the boot aswell and was wondering the best place to take power from the battery. Could I use the same power cable as the sub? And if so should I take it off before or after the capacitor? I was planning on using something like this power supply:
    http://linitx.com/viewproduct.php?prodid=11664
    And was wondering wheter that would be sufficent or would I need more equipment?

    Basic diagram:


    Thanks in advance

    Alarr

  2. #2
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    If you tap the power line from the sub, use a distribution block.
    Otherwise run a dedicated, fused line to the battery.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  3. #3
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    Awesome im thinking before the cap as the volatage between cap and sub will be haywire whereas the batt to cap should be pretty stable?

  4. #4
    North of the land of Hey Huns
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alarr View Post
    Awesome im thinking before the cap as the volatage between cap and sub will be haywire whereas the batt to cap should be pretty stable?


    Caps smooth out ripples from the battery and charging system. Power is either cleaner after the cap, or dirty on both sides (if your system is inadequite)
    "stop with the REINSTALLS, what do you think we got some lame-o installer!!!" - mitchjs
    RevFE
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  5. #5
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    Yeah but would it be dirtier on the sub side because I have a 1600W sub blasting out?

  6. #6
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    I would instal the distribution block, and put the cap between it and the sub amp.

    Given the low price of power caps I doubt it really matters. But Ideally you would isolate the sub amp from the rest of the system. The computer PS can take care of voltage regulation for the car pc.
    The wire to the trunk should be big. Sorry, the "boot".

  7. #7
    Raw Wave
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    The cap smooths out the power on both sides. Only the cable resistance (ie distance) from the cap effects that. (Please people - basic electronic circuit theory - all points on the same "wire" are at the same voltage.)

    But since the cap is there due to amp thumping (and probably a great sales pitch**), run a dedicated line from the battery, otherwise your PC will be subject to the same line dips as the sub.

    (** replacing the cap with a small AGM battery will probably have superior effect.)

  8. #8
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    The cap was only bought cause when i had my music on and was driving my lights went off and engine started to cut out... :P

    Kk Probs best to give it its own line for the price of the cable.

  9. #9
    Raw Wave
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alarr View Post
    The cap was only bought cause when i had my music on and was driving my lights went off and engine started to cut out...
    Exactly!

    I'm just saying that a small AGM battery would have been more effective. And probably cheaper.
    (Although a 1.2AH battery will do, most use a 7AH because they are under $40, and you can usually use it to jump-start your car if needed - try doing that with a cap.)

  10. #10
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    If your system is draining your storage capacity that bad then you have a bigger issue. A spare battery or cap does not generate anything. Only the alternator provides what you really need: more power.

    Your first order of business should be an HO alternator, (you can get one aftermarket if the OEM does not offer one), then do what what is known in the car audio world as "the big three". Constant low voltage in your vehicle due to overload can cause lots of weird problems.

    You can google "The big three" for many results or just go here:

    http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~73496~PN~1
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

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