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Thread: automotive turbo timer for shut down

  1. #1
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    automotive turbo timer for shut down

    Anyone have the thought to use an automotive turbo timer to turn off the power to their power suply. Not a full start up/ shut down controller. But would allow pc to be turned on with the power button like normal. and the pc shut down like normal, leave the car while the pc shuts down. the turbo timer will run for a set time it takes the pc to shut down then turn off power to the dc-dc converter.
    Just a thought i had wanted to run it by anyone on mp3car

  2. #2
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    How much do they cost? Is it cheaper than a simple timed relay?
    Quote Originally Posted by ghettocruzer View Post
    I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
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    not sure about cheaper than a timed relay. im sure a timed relay is definately way cheaper. but the turbo timer is already configured and designed to interface with your ignition switch. also already has a relay built in. Also most have good wiring diagrams and hook up instructions.

    im interested about the timed relay. is it a schematic and a circuit that has to be made or is it a solid state device that can be purchased. And is the time delay adjustable?

  4. #4
    Raw Wave
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    Should be able to get them cheap since they are no longer required...

    There are kits like Jaycar's KC5383-IntelligentTurboTimer & KC5451-AdaptiveTurboTimer (both currently AUD$45), though they are overkill.


    But there are various off-delay circuits, and I thought plenty has been published... (not that I'll ever find them...).
    It depends on sophistication though.
    Up to a few minutes may be fine with an RC decaying FET else transistor.
    The 555 should also be usable up to tens of minutes (and its high 10mA current isn't a problem for automotive supplies).

    I did design one a while back. I think it was a 555 using a relay with the "latched feedback" method I use (ie, a normal SPST relay that latches - used for water-level pump systems; push to latch relays with manual off or low-voltage cutout for car accessories etc)... I was trying to recall how I did it a few months back (and yeah, I got confused - why is the real simple stuff the trickiest??).

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    it just seems there are soo many different ways that this has been done. Almost too many options to know what works and what doesn't.

    I already have a mini-box 200w dc-dc power supply. But I don't have a start up/ shut down controller. And with the bad reviews with the m4 and others I don't want to stray from my current power suply. Just wish there was a way to mount it other than the snap in connector.

    also the current start up/ shutdown controller offered in the store also didnt get much of a good review.
    Also wondering about when I turn the ignition on to say roll up power windows, the pc will start. Then when i turn the ignition off the pc will have to boot, then shut down again. any way to get away from this while still having the ignition switch turn the pc on and off.

    again there is soo much vast information on this site its hard to know what actually works.

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    your dc-dc psu-- is it a this one? if it is, return it. those only work on 12v, an are meant for home use.. cars output a wide range of voltages between 5-15volts.. so you will damage the power supply, and possibly the computer after you turn the car on.. also, car specific dc-dc psu's include a startup/shutdown controller, so it yours doesn't imo, it isn't worth it..

    there is always the dsatx, or the power supplies from opus, if you don't like the idea of the m-series..

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    yep it is the one you linked to. thing is with the horible reviews with the m4 and others I don't know which one to get. heck I wouldn't even know how to use the features they have with usb or serial connectivity or programing for other features. Seems every dc-dc power suply with a built in startup/ shutdown controller either gets horible reviews or just doesn't work. and not many of them have hardly any output. I don't have the bank account to mess around with trying things till i get it right. things like that make you just rip everything out and throw it out the window when it doesn't work and you spend more time tinkering and troubleshooting rather than using your car pc.

    im up for suggestions.

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    while i understand the budgeting problem, the one you have will not work by itself in a car environment-- you will need a dc regulator to input a regulated 12v into it-- and one with that amount of wattage is no cheaper then a auto specific dc-dc psu like the m4, dsatx, etc..


    what wattage are you needing? i use a dsatx with very little issues(just under max on the 5v rail though-- usb soundcard, dvd, gps puck, wifi, powered hub, and ssd--the ssd put it under max--w/ a 7.2krpm drive, the dvd drive wouldn't always work due to power draw)

    after checking your build log: while you didn't post the model c2d, if i remember right, most are the 64w tdp, so they draw about the same as my pentium dual core-- so a m4/dsatx would work best, with the opus 360 guaranteed to be enough

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    my motherboard requires or at least the manual states a power supply of 350w reccomended for syst5em stability. Ive goten away with the 200w supply so far. I don't mind buying a dc-dc regulator. actually like the components being seperate. that way if one thing fails then the whole thing isnt junk, just a seperate component.

    everyone keeps saying just get a m4 atx. but they have such bad reviews and no real definate answer if they work or not. and the software doesnt exist or isn't user friendly.
    anything that is out there that is simple, starts up and shuts down a pc and doesn't crash.

  10. #10
    Raw Wave
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    It does depend on what you want...

    PS... I forgot to say that I have found some simple delayed off circuits using relays and transistors or FETs.
    Also that IMO (but without the experience), the dc-dc products in the mp3car shop are VERY impressive.
    I concluded long ago that even with my cheap DIY kink, it was NOT worthwhile building or modifying other solutions. That assumes of course that they have the features I want.
    Such features include operation from 8V to 16V (my normal "basic" automotive design rule) - some of the dc-dc converters are from 6V to way above 16V - and that can be a difficult range to attain.
    From there it varies from super-low standby current requirements (in the uA's or uW's or less assuming solar else non-charging situations), or low voltage cutouts for battery protection, and probably typical UPS functionality (ie, handshaking). I can add these, but efficiently and with little power drain?
    Software bugs should be fixable (and rarely do not exist!).
    Related hardware problems should be modifiable - maybe the addition of input or signal filters etc.
    AFAICSee, many modes of operation have been well thought out and hence have appropriate interfacing.
    I'm certainly not one to plugg deficient or crap products. I do however recognise the complex development and manufacturing path - Leading-edge developers need feedback and understanding. So too those with great ideas and attitude despite a somewhat naive background. (Lazy arrogant ones have the right to die.) But there is some saying about poo happens.
    And to use domestic appliances in cars? Not when it's 12VDC as in 10V-15V DC or less. Like I said, IMO 8-16V minumum, and protection outside that range (ie - non destructive brown outs and short duration 200V-400V spikes etc). Then there is heat and vibration....
    I know return you to my original chant.... Hopefully in better context.



    It is not difficult to cobble together circuits that turn on with IGN or ACC or charging or a manual push-button (etc); and then (optionally) latch on until a low voltage battery or manual push-button off or lack of PC signal.
    The basic system consists of one relay and a few diodes and (say) 2 push buttons.
    Add about $20 for a low voltage cutout.
    Simple timers can also be added (usually ~ $3; a resistor & cap and MOSFET etc).
    And although all the above started for the addition of a second battery, it is not needed (though it is recommended unless good dip-resistance converters and a low-voltage else hard cut-off if used). (Ped: It actually all started with a simple and safe fuel-pump controller!)

    (You may have seen variants of those "building blocks" in my other posts, as well as discussions of UPS type handshaking and graceful shutdown.)

    The advantage is its DIY, common parts, and reconfigurability and scalability.
    Of course one day I will replace all that with a DIP switch or USB configurable uPC device with 100A MOSFETs etc, but until that day....

    Maybe I should look at those "buggy" PSUs? But if they are for 12V only (and not mobile 6-8V to 16-28V etc use), there isn't much point!


    WRT PC power, there is nothing like a real measurement.
    Many specify 350W etc because that is what their standard config may have with extra capacity for expansion.
    But adding RAM is very different to HDDs etc.
    And it seems that many newer muscle PCs are consuming significantly LESS power. (Maybe the 350W PSU upgrade to 850W gamers may now reverse?)

    And some devices should be splittable - eg, the HDD +12V could be separate (and probably even raw but protected +12V)


    FYI - it turns out I have a copy of the $45 Jaycar KC5451-AdaptiveTurboTimer's original Silicon Chip August 2007 article.
    It is a PIC based solution (16F88-I/P) which is cool in this case 'cos it is pre-programmed (albeit I assume proprietary software).

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