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Thread: 120 Watt DC-DC now Available ->

  1. #1
    Newbie
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    120 Watt DC-DC now Available ->

    Go to ebay.com and use this search:

    "VIA Mini ITX DC DC 120 WATT ATX Converter PSU"

    PW-120

    120 Watt DC-DC power converter for the VIA Mini-ITX form factor motherboards. Allows you to run your car-pc from your car's electrical system with no inverter and no AC whatsoever. Now you can run your fat 7200 rpm hard-drives, fast DVD/CD drives and LANS without having to use notebook parts. No fans required makes for silent DC power for your car-pc with no added RF. Factory made and completely guaranteed against defects. All converters are shipped in anti-stat packages insured. Complete details on Ebay now.

    Search: VIA Mini ITX DC DC 120 WATT ATX Converter PSU
    Thank you, Brian (audioforge)

  2. #2
    Self proclaimed spoon feeder TruckinMP3's Avatar
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    Jun 2002
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    Right, welcome to the forum

    Please see this thread.

    Try this feature before posting questions and "new" information.

    Thanks
    TruckinMP3
    D201GLY2, DC-DC power, 3.5 inch SATA

    Yes, you should search... and Yes, It has been covered before!

    Read the FAQ!

  3. #3
    FLAC
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Portland OR
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    Originally posted by TruckinMP3
    Right, welcome to the forum

    Please see this thread.

    Thanks
    Only do this mod if you want to fry your 12 volt equipment or put a big 12-12volt conveter to handle the 8-15 volt range of the cars system.
    All it does is give more 12 volt current by replacing a tiny transistor with a bigger one. It is the same as hooking a relay from your 12 volt hard drive to your cars battery.

    -Jeff
    MPEGBOX - Plexiglass Computer
    www.mpegbox.com

  4. #4
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
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    Anyone with personal experience with this?

    I just bought one and dont want to fry my 12v equipment (LCD TS, and HD!!)

    The ad says 12v +_15% so I figure roughly (10-14 volt input range). Base on what I read on here, even while cranking, a good battery will fall to only 11v so I figured that the 10-14 was safe?

    Anyone used these before?

  5. #5
    Maximum Bitrate
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    Ontario, Canada
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    845
    Normal 12V rail tolerances are +/- 10%, so 10.8V to 13.2V.

    The car will drop to around 8V for a few milliseconds, and lowest I can get on a voltmeter is about 10.5V (and I have a good battery) which is just a little under tolerance.

    However as was mentioned earlier, this is just a hack. It's a 60W PSU + an additional 5A on the 12V rail. You're still stuck with small 3.3V and 5.0V rails which can easily become a problem.

    If you care about your equipment, then spend some money and get a good PSU. The magicpower/arise 120W PSUs are pretty decent and give you more power on the 3.3V and 5.0V rails than this one does, and you can get it from arise for $98USD. Really not that much more expensive when all is said and done, considering what you get (including warranty).

    I have busted too many parts now by trying to hack things that I'm just getting to the point where I'd rather spend the money up front to avoid the hassle and problems down the road that waste a lot of my time. Having a crappy power supply can also easily lead to frying all of your components attached to the system, which can turn out to be really expensive in the long run.

    You can do it right the first time, or you can do it again.
    IN DEVELOPMENT -- '96 Mustang, lilliput with PII/450 laptop, custom DC-DC power supply, 60GB; Garmin GPS; 802.11g; compact keyboard, small graphical LCDs, OBDII.

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