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Thread: Best DC/DC Power Supply For A Diesel

  1. #1
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    Best DC/DC Power Supply For A Diesel

    Hello,

    I am looking for the best power supply to power my CarPC but the catch is, it is going in a diesel.

    The whole wait to start thing is throwing me for a loop. The voltage will drop dramatically during the cold season while the ignition is turned on (before starting). I may need to run a battery isolator and a 3rd battery just for the PC.

    I am looking for a high reliability power supply that can power a atom processor, intel ssd and a asus high end sound card. I am working on duramix'ing the liliput 10.4 hdmi I just purchased (this one has 12V input). I will also be running after market amps if that helps.

    What is the most reliable power supply on the market?

  2. #2
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    how far is "dramatic"? Less than 9v? If so it might be hard for any PSU to cope with.
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    North of the land of Hey Huns
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    The m2-atx is rated down to 6v, and on my vehicle has survived repeated hits to 7-8v
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  4. #4
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    I haven't tested it with a meter but it gets around 10v. I just mainly want a PS that will protect my MB from spikes.

  5. #5
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    I have had no issue with voltage drop on my diesel.

    edit: I have had an issue when in accessory position using running the pc though, I can't get back to ignition and start the truck fast enough to not cause the P/S to trigger shutdown. I need to add an always live switch to the accessory line to fix this.
    Last edited by PhilG; 03-17-2011 at 01:09 PM.
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  6. #6
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    for another solution, you can use a pulse timer:
    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...mpaign=froogle

    basically, you connect this so it interrupts the acc signal from starting the pc for the amount of time you expect it to take before the truck gets fully started..

  7. #7
    Low Bitrate IssaquahWA1979's Avatar
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    The voltage drop that he is referring to is from the Grid Heaters (Dodge Cummins Type) or glow plugs (Older Ford Type) These heaters can pull 100-300 amps from the batteries in cold weather plus add on top of that the tremendous amount of current that these Diesels require for cranking and well you get the idea... My M4-ATX has been fine on my Dodge although on rare occasion if the charge circuit does not come up fast enough during low idle and the grid heaters cycle fast enough it will drop long enough for the M$-to kick out.

    Your best solution is a Battery isolation solenoid that has a timer kick in delay of say a minute or so that way the charging system can come online and by then hopefully you are either in a high idle or driving as the heaters turn off once above 8mph on the Dodge.
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  8. #8
    Raw Wave
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    Ditto.
    Search the UIBI if you have a charge lamp; the UIBI is almost any old relay and is usually much better than other battery isolators.
    Then whatever battery you desire - probably something like a 7AH AGM or larger.

  9. #9
    Low Bitrate IssaquahWA1979's Avatar
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    just to be clear I am saying a charge isolating relay not a battery isolator two different things completely. An isolator will cause voltage drop the solenoid is a direct connect to the starting battery and alternator just that you get one with a delay so it has time to come up;
    Custom Built Intel D510MO, 2GB RAM, M4-ATX, Elios 15" TS on custom mount.
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  10. #10
    Raw Wave
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    They may be different to you, but not to most others.

    The only battery isolators that cause voltage drops are diode types. (And who the heck would want to use those anyhow?)

    Most battery isolators use relays - aka contactors or solenoids depending on your jargon. (A solenoid is relay the coil that actuates the relay contacts.)


    The UIBI is essentially a relay of your choice (eg, 30A to 500A) but it is merely its control signal that is (apparently) novel.
    It avoids the complications of voltage sensing and delay requirements - though those can be added if required.
    Only for stator systems would you use a voltage sensing isolator.

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