Best way to power my...
...monitor and usb hub. I am seriously considering getting the ToughBox 16- Zotac & Intel-Based Wi-Fi Mobile Car Computer System when it is back in stock. My original plan was to get the ULTIMATE Micro Intel Vehicle & Home Media Computer and power my screen off of the P2140 PSU that is included. Considering the Tough Box 16 does not come with a P2140 PSU what are my options. Currently I am considering getting two DCL11 Automotive Point-Of-Load DC-DC 15W Power Supplies but not sure if that is the best option. Help me out guys. What should I do here?
if you're getting the toughbox i'd say just splice into the 12v (yellow) on the molex connector inside the case and use that for power to the monitor and hub. If you're really worried about exceeding the 5v rail then yea get the Point-Of-Load and use that. I have a few of them and have never had an issue with them.
Thanks. So if my monitor and usb hub both use 5v but one is at 1A and the other is at 2A would I have to use two POL's to not exceed the 15w max? Sorry if this is a stupid question. I am truly a newbie when it comes to wiring. I really hate feeling like this to lol. But thanks again for your help.
Thanks. So if I decided to use a POL and both of my devices are running off of 5v but one is pulling 1A and the other is pulling 2A would I need to get two different POL? I know the max is 15w but I am not sure if having two different amps is possible. I am a real newbie when it comes to wiring so please forget me if this is a stupid question but I am trying to learn. Thanks again.
Here's what I came up with. Ebay item# 220755391224 DC/DC Converter Auto Boost Buck 80W Power Supply CC CV 8-30V Input, 2-16V dual adjustable output(voltage and current), at $28 I don't see the downside.
i worry that it is too cheap, though i really don't see a reason other then that...
I'm not familiar with the equipment you describe, nor your power requirements. But, if you're concerned with it being "too cheap", try this one. Ebay item# 260739052558 DC/DC Stabilizer I/P 8-40V Regulate to 12V-10A 120W Go to their store, they have several power converters.
I tend to agree with soundman. (So what else is new?)
(1) Shipping seems expensive (ie, post is cross-subsidising the real product "cost")
(2) $Cheap does not mean cheap quality nor crap. I often come across the CHeap stuff which is $cheap but far from poor quality (design & construction).
[ Caveat: Uppercase spelling errors and any uppercase association with any country codes is an interesting coincidence. ]
FYI - if not for the shipping co$t, I'd suck it 'n see - it's cheap enough for the gambol.
If I could guarantee a "base" value, I might order a few units if it lowers the average unit shipping cost - eg, for $8, would I buy that box and connectors - is it ok value if the rest is garbage? But in this case I suspect the shipping price will not decrease much...
My last eGay buys involved zapper fly swatters and LED voltmeters.
The 2 different voltmeters I bought 3 each of for a good unit price and have no regrets.
The zapper I got 6 units being (6@$6 each plus $10 postage ($46) versus $20 each or $10 elsewhere "in person" which would have been $50 for the 5 I intended getting ($50); but only got the FU quantity (zero) for @ $20! (Ok, the zapper needs padding behind its +ve battery contact, but I can live with that. I use one end of a broken toothpick; a 10-second job.)
Oh, come on! Everybody knows exactly why it's priced that way. It's so he doesn't have to pay Ebay half his profits, nothing more. For $28, I'm ordering one. If you want to wait, it'll be about a month before it arrives and I can install and get back to you. Until then, put yourself at ease and buy something more expensive.:drama::nutz::rofl:
And I thought it was to suck people in - like those car-badge keyrings for $0.01 each. :lol: