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Thread: Can i just connect direct 12V power to these PSU units?

  1. #1
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Can i just connect direct 12V power to these PSU units?

    The motherboards are VIA VT133 EVEM chipset based boards. They all have 512mb of RAM, and 512mb CF cards with XPe and 800mhz processors. The units have power supplies in them. The model number is MaxSpeed Corp. PCA0019-20. Now from what i can tell, these use a AC-DC power brick. That means the PSU must be DC-DC.

    Here is my question:

    Can I simply connect 12V source and the PSU steps down the amps that it needs, or will I have to have some type of regulation in place to give it only the required amps it needs? How should i go about installing these in my car? I have 6 of them. Currently the PC system is on its own battery in the rear. It is charged by the HO alternator, but only when the car is on. What else would I add to get these six units safely installed.

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  2. #2
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    They most likely will need regulated 12v. The brick should say the output voltage and those ps boards in those boxes are to make the 3.3v 5v and 12v not like automotive ones. but they are dc/dc

  3. #3
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOtwistR View Post
    They most likely will need regulated 12v. The brick should say the output voltage and those ps boards in those boxes are to make the 3.3v 5v and 12v not like automotive ones. but they are dc/dc
    The seller did not give any bricks, but said it should be 12V @ 3 amps. He said if i decide to swap out the CF readers with HDD, I would have to raise it up to 12V @ 4 amps.

    So what are my options? Is there something i can do to send regulated power into the units?
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  4. #4
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    you could use 1 of your other power supplies from your build didn't you buy a couple of big ones not too long ago, its hard to remember your builds lol just tap on the 12v rail and really i doubt those boxes run a full 3amp draw. Or you could use the mini-box dc-dc usb PS i think it output 10-12 amps you could power 3 or 4 on 1 unit. SNO

  5. #5
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOtwistR View Post
    you could use 1 of your other power supplies from your build didn't you buy a couple of big ones not too long ago, its hard to remember your builds lol just tap on the 12v rail and really i doubt those boxes run a full 3amp draw. Or you could use the mini-box dc-dc usb PS i think it output 10-12 amps you could power 3 or 4 on 1 unit. SNO
    HEHE, well I had went with a inverter and the main pc setup had a Opus 320. There isnt like a way to make it regulated via adding something to the current ones?
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  6. #6
    Variable Bitrate
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    If you tap the 12v rail of a power supply (comp power supply, or auto 12v->12v supply), they provide regulated 12v. Not sure of the opus though. He is right, your builds are impossible to follow lol... You still using the opus on the main pc? If not, I'm sure the opus would supply enough, if not all, the power you need for the thin clients. You're talking about a max of 18 amps, 6 clients x 3 max each. Might be more concerned about the wattage 6 thin clients would max together...
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  7. #7
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    Most likely the DC-DC power supplies in there are not going to be designed to run on the big voltage swings of a car environment. If they were on a straight 12v battery, they'd be fine, but during crank and dropping down to 6v, they're going to drop out probably. And if the voltage spikes really high, they'll likely fry.

    BTW, amps don't work in the way that you're suggesting they do. You could hook up a 12v 100amp power supply to something that only needs 12v @ 1amp, and everything will run fine. The amperage on the power supply is a maximum rating of the amps that it can supply.

  8. #8
    Raw Wave
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    I too reckon you'd need a regulated supply. Not only does it have to prevent HV spikes (typically up to 200V), but also handle typical "12V automotive" supply variations between 8 or 9V to 16V.


    Have a look at Current Logic converters, IMO they seem good and cheap.

    I'd suggest inputs from 8V upwards (ie, to at least 16V) with 12V output. (Most of those seem to be user-adjustable or programmable outputs.)
    And I'd suggest multiple small units rather than one large, but that depends on your design requirements and economic considerations etc.

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