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Thread: Power supply... 24 pin motherboard with p4 connector in M350 case.

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    Power supply... 24 pin motherboard with p4 connector in M350 case.

    I am curious what people might suggest using.

    I purchased a Gigabyte Z-77N-WiFi motherboard with a low profile fan and an i3 55watt CPU. This has a p4 connector and a 24 pin power connector.

    This is going into a M350 Mini-box case.

    i will be using an SSD as my HD.

    Problem I am having now is what power supply to use.

    I could use a Pico -160XT PSU but then I need a regulated supply. This has a 24 pin power connector and p4 connector.

    the M2-ATX has a p4 connector but only has a 20 pin connector and won't fit in my case because it is too long. If I install a spare HD bracket I will have basically 6" by 2.5" of usable area due to the motherboard layout.

    I ordered an M3-ATX supply but this only has a 20 pin connector and no P4 connector. I have seen 20-24 pin connectors and I have seen or could make my own P4 to 4pin Molex connector. But I wonder if these adapters are a smart idea.

    It looks like I could actually use one of the Pico supplies along with a DSX12VD regulated supply. This option looks like the most viable in my case since the DSX12VD looks like it could be mounted to a second HD bracket and mounted inside the case with the Pico supply. The Pico supply would only need the P4 connector, a Sata connector and the power connectors to the DSX supply.

    This is a powerful little computer..

    Just trying to figure out how to power it. (I can also upgrade to a 65 watt i7 if I ever wanted)

    Rodney

  2. #2
    Maximum Bitrate tft_lcd_org's Avatar
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    Use the wide input Pico PSU.

    Search "PicoPSU-120-WI-25" on fleabay.

    Add your own p4 connector.

  3. #3
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    Just clarifying that a 20 Pin PSU works fine with this MB.
    Surface Pro 2 128GB portrait mode, Win8.1, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE. Previous Car-PC Project

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickz View Post
    Just clarifying that a 20 Pin PSU works fine with this MB.
    20 works on pretty much all mainboards, unless youre planning to put in a super high end CPU on it.
    Important is only the P4 connector, but its easily done via an adapter cable on PSUs that dont have a P4 cable.

  5. #5
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gullimonster View Post
    20 works on pretty much all mainboards, unless youre planning to put in a super high end CPU on it.
    Important is only the P4 connector, but its easily done via an adapter cable on PSUs that dont have a P4 cable.
    Yes that was given. Mainly clarifying for this new release chipset/UEFI Motherboard in case the OP was wondering if something had changed from Previous models. Something like an overclocked i5-3570k is of course no problems with just a 20pin connector, I doubt most users would need more than that in a car PC?.

    EDIT: Not suggesting in any way that an i5 is a high end CPU that warrants a 24 pin connection.
    Last edited by Mickz; 02-21-2013 at 08:10 PM.
    Surface Pro 2 128GB portrait mode, Win8.1, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE. Previous Car-PC Project

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    I have seen that the 24 pin connectors really give a few more watts and obviously on a Car PC I don't want high wattage. I am waiting for a molex to p4 connector to get here. I did buy a 20-24 conversion cable but don't believe I need it. I am using a dual core i3 at this point that is 55 watt. I have seen 65 watt i7's and that is probably about as far as I will go if I need it. This has onboard Intel 4000 graphics so it looks to be a decent match. I am running it with a cheap 350 watt supply in house until I get a solution figured out. In my car I may have already mentioned I have no reason to believe I will tax this computer at all but in my truck I will be doing a lot more with it and I would rather have too much power than not enough.

    I am actually probably going to put the computer together and make a conversion cable so I can use this power supply to power the box for testing outside my car. In those cases I will end up having a power supply powering a power supply but I only paid $15 for this used supply that was pulled from a computer and it isn't a standard power supply. But of course since it cost me less than $10 for a cable I can build a 12 volt supply that also supplies 5 volts for far less than any regular 12 volt supply.

    I am thinking that it shouldn't be too hard to setup the AC power supply so that all I need to do is hold a button down to start up the computer and when the computer shuts down to send a signal back to the power supply to turn it off when it shuts its self off. I purchased this M350 case from MoCoSo with their wire plugs already installed. One plug feeds Ground, +12 and ignition to the internal power supply and the other has 3 wires available. This M3-ATX uses one of those wires for an amp remote turn on leaving me two wires. I am thinking I need to keep one a ground and the other could be used as a connection to keep the external supply running when hooked up.

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    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    BTW the i5 I mentioned also has Intel 4000 Graphics, using one with the same MB and a 330W supply in the work shop.
    Surface Pro 2 128GB portrait mode, Win8.1, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE. Previous Car-PC Project

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    Mickz, what can you tell me about this board? So far it rocks. I have an Ivy Bridge i3 processor and it seems to be alot faster than I expected it to be.

    Have you had any issues with yours? Chris at MoSoCo told me he figured the M3-ATX would run this board fine with this processor and my setup. I am guessing I won't have a lot of "head room" but he seemed to think I would be in under 100 watts with my setup. I see you are using an M4-ATX.

    I will have to pay attention to your build since you are using some of the same equipment. I did buy 16 gigs of ram for this board because it was cheap and never know if I might find a use for it all.

    A slight off topic question for you about the dual antennae. I am ordering one of the roof mounted 4 in 1 units and want to hook the wifi to this. I am guessing I want to hook the roof to the "Main" antennae feed and hide one of the included ones inside the vehicle as a backup. (Or when it is in my car use both of the included units in separate parts of my car. )

    Going to have to check out your build now

  9. #9
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    To save you time, I have only just transferred this new PC to the Vehicle after weeks of bench testing with windows 8 and all my existing hardware.

    The normal running current is the same for the i3, low power i5 and the i5-3570K. This is around 3.3 to 3.8 amperes at 12V - measured at the Power supply (+12v input to the M4) with all USB devices running and DAB radio playing.

    Where the current varies is when you start to do thing like HI-DEF web cam recording. CPU usage runs at about 5% or less with the i5 doing everything but goes to around 40% when the two hi-def 30fps Web cameras are running and recording at once. (Also depends on the encoding Codec)

    The i3 will hit around 80% to 90% in the same situation. If you really push the i5 past what an i3 at 100% CPU can do then of course you draw higher current.

    These are not pie in the sky figures, I have measured them and this is what I'm seeing in the real world.

    I haven't done anything with the WIFI or BT aerials as yet, I don't really use them that much at the moment as I don't have to pair a Phone or Player as both are built into the Car PC ..


    EDIT: The most I have ever seen is 6 amperes @ 12v and this is at boot time when all 4 cores run full tilt to get the OS loaded AFAP. For the most part it runs at around 38 to 45 Watts and hits around 75W at boot (also changes with the MB).
    Last edited by Mickz; 02-21-2013 at 10:48 PM.
    Surface Pro 2 128GB portrait mode, Win8.1, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE. Previous Car-PC Project

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    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    A slight off topic question for you about the dual antennae. I am ordering one of the roof mounted 4 in 1 units and want to hook the wifi to this. I am guessing I want to hook the roof to the "Main" antennae feed and hide one of the included ones inside the vehicle as a backup. (Or when it is in my car use both of the included units in separate parts of my car. )


    Just to clarify your question about the antennae.

    AFAIKT one MB connector is for BT and one is for WIFI. I would think a 4 in one Roof mount would bring out individual connections.
    Surface Pro 2 128GB portrait mode, Win8.1, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE. Previous Car-PC Project

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