Thread: Opus PSU for Casetronic C134

Hey aethernaut,
I also own a C134 and just bought a Opus 150W last week. I should have it sometime next week. I was wondering how you are going to mount yours?
I am thinking about going out of the side behind the keyboard and PS/2 sockets by cutting a grove about 1.5" in length 0.75" in height or going out the back above the video where there are 9 small holes. I would enlarge the center hole (of the 9), disconnect the wires from the ATX plug, feed the through the enlarged hole and reconnect them. I am not sure how I am going to mount the PSU to the case, either on top or on the side. I will let you know how i make out.

What would you pay for such a power supply? Would you be interested if I built one in that formfactor?

-Jeff

Originally Posted by entr0py

Hey aethernaut,
I also own a C134 and just bought a Opus 150W last week. I should have it sometime next week. I was wondering how you are going to mount yours?
I am thinking about going out of the side behind the keyboard and PS/2 sockets by cutting a grove about 1.5" in length 0.75" in height or going out the back above the video where there are 9 small holes. I would enlarge the center hole (of the 9), disconnect the wires from the ATX plug, feed the through the enlarged hole and reconnect them. I am not sure how I am going to mount the PSU to the case, either on top or on the side. I will let you know how i make out.

Another idea I thought of would be to replace the existing power connector with a bulkhead PC power connector. Can't find one of these connectors for dimensions to see if one fits or to buy. Sounds like you're going to have a pigtail out the back going through the space of the 9 holes. What if you put a grommet in the existing power jack hole, and run the pigtail through there? That or your spot are the only two places, not much room. I just hate damaging a nice cabinet.

Also, do you think it needs all four wires? Couple of people here have said unless you have a full size HD or CD, you don't need the 12 volts. I'm putting mine in a pickup truck (with plenty of sound gear taking up space already), and I want the computer on or near the dash somehow. I guess that means the PSU will have to go under the seat.

Originally Posted by zootjeff

What would you pay for such a power supply? Would you be interested if I built one in that formfactor?

-Jeff

Hey Jeff-

We're paying $200 with shipping for the 150 watt Opus unit. If it did everything that that unit does; boost/buck and regulate the supply, ignition sense and settable off delay timer, I'm sure it'd be worth that much.

Originally Posted by aethernaut

Another idea I thought of would be to replace the existing power connector with a bulkhead PC power connector. Can't find one of these connectors for dimensions to see if one fits or to buy. Sounds like you're going to have a pigtail out the back going through the space of the 9 holes. What if you put a grommet in the existing power jack hole, and run the pigtail through there? That or your spot are the only two places, not much room. I just hate damaging a nice cabinet.

Also, do you think it needs all four wires? Couple of people here have said unless you have a full size HD or CD, you don't need the 12 volts. I'm putting mine in a pickup truck (with plenty of sound gear taking up space already), and I want the computer on or near the dash somehow. I guess that means the PSU will have to go under the seat.

hmm, i am not familiar with a bulkhead connector, i will have to do a search. If you find one, I would appreciate it if you let me know how it works out for you. The cables to the ATX connector are too big to fit through the existing power jack hole. What four wires are you referring to? There are 16 wires that connect from the PSU to the mother board, are talking about not using them all? if so which ones are expendable?
I hear you about damaging the cabinet, I hate to as well. If you are running it under the seat you must be planning on extending the wires. I dont know if this would cause any problems or not. I will let you know how it turns out.

Originally Posted by aethernaut

Hey Jeff-

We're paying $200 with shipping for the 150 watt Opus unit. If it did everything that that unit does; boost/buck and regulate the supply, ignition sense and settable off delay timer, I'm sure it'd be worth that much.

agreed. Let us know if you are seriously considering this.

Originally Posted by entr0py

agreed. Let us know if you are seriously considering this.

I actually have a version of the MPBS1 that I put into the casetronic case. It doesn't have a shutdown controller built in but the 12 volts is regulated and the total output power is 70 watts just like the MPBS1..

What would a good price for it be?

Wait a sec, my thinking might be all screwed up here. I was going to leave the casetronic supply in the case (that way I don’t have to deal with the 16wire ATX connector), extend the 12v wires from the Opus supply, and use that 12v to power the whole thing. But this may not work at all. The 12v on the Opus might not be rated high enough to do this, plus, I might loose the ignition sense and off delay features. I guess I won’t really know ‘til I get the Opus unit and see how it works.

Does this sound feasible to you, Jeff? See what a pain this is not having the supply INSIDE the cabinet? I would be in a better position to tell you how much yours would be worth, after I get the Opus and see what it does. What I’m after is a smooth power-up of the computer when I turn on the ignition. When I shut off the ignition, I want the computer minus the display to stay powered up for about an hour, and then a smooth, automatic shutdown. The thinking is that this will do two things, I hope: Allow me to transfer files over the wireless net without having run back out and shut everything off afterward, and prevent a boot cycle from just having to run into a store for something.

A bulkhead connector is same a regular connector, but usually with little tabbies to hold it in a slot in the case.

-Jon

yes it does but the easier way and cost effective way is to build a 12 volt regulator circuit whihc can be as low as 20 usd.