Thread: For those who tried the 1F tank!!!

Power suplie: 12v dc 250Wats 9v dc 18v dc

From post #9

PTCruiser >>> Vin range... Note that in car Vin can be 8...16V (> you'll have reboot)


And yes PTCruiser is one of the most knowledgeable member in here.

Originally Posted by Ricky327

How can the +5V get effected when the supply voltage is still well over 5V during crank?
)

If the input amperage the (inefficient) regulator needs is not available.

But whatever you guys wanna do, have fun. I feel that I've gotten some valuable tips from those that have come before me on this board (and who are all long gone and not able to offer the prized "proof" at this time - by the way must this "proof" be notarized?) I now have a well functioning system, working far better than I could have dreamed of before I found this place, and I have no further need for this forum. I doubt I will be back much, but I am thankful for those who came before.

Thanks to Aaron Cake, Sproggy, Jeff Mucha, Mastero, and many more who I cannot remember.

If the input amperage the (inefficient) regulator needs is not available.

Of course you have more than enough current. A starter motor is easily rated at 1KW, we are talking about 72A drain here. Your little car PC is rated at what 150W the most.

If your car battery dont have enough current to power the inefficient +5V regulator your starter motor wont even move. How is it able to survive a crank if your battery is dead???

Now tell me how inefficient an inefficient +5V regulator are when the main battery cant even supply enough current to power it as you said? And yet the main battery can still supply 1KW to the starter motor.

Anymore 1F capacitor suporter? please come forward

Umm, we're talking about while cranking here, with the starter sucking up the available amperage. What are you talking about?

Originally Posted by Ricky327

If the input amperage the (inefficient) regulator needs is not available.

Of course you have more than enough current. A starter motor is easily rated at 1KW, we are talking about 72A drain here. Your little car PC is rated at what 150W the most.

If your car battery dont have enough current to power the inefficient +5V regulator your starter motor wont even move. How is it able to survive a crank if your battery is dead???

Now tell me how inefficient an inefficient +5V regulator are when the main battery cant even supply enough current to power it as you said? And yet the main battery can still supply 1KW to the starter motor.

Anymore 1F capacitor suporter? please come forward

Originally Posted by Ricky327

Anymore 1F capacitor suporter? please come forward

That's it, ignore everything I've said and just have fun. Par for the course.

I've already explained that the 1F tank was never a suggestion by anyone knowledgable - it was a response from a newbie to a blanket dismissal of ALL cap based solutions to rebooting problems from a recently joining member who hadn't TRIED anything, or even ever heard of a Sproggy.

As such I find your obsession with it puzzling.

Umm, we're talking about while cranking here, with the starter sucking up the available amperage. What are you talking about?

Sure the starter drain so much current as I said it can easily be 72A or so. Thats why your battery voltage drop down to as low as 8V. But from what you are saying theres no more current left during cranking for the little inefficient +5V to operate at all and cause the PC to reboot. You are trying to imply that the other PSU are so inefficient that the battery cant even provide enough current to power it during cranking. Im asking you how inefficient is it? surely its not draining another 1KW out of your battery just to run your 150W max PC?


That's it, ignore everything I've said and just have fun. Par for the course.

No one is ignoring you, one person claiming it to be a working theory just isnt good enough. Pehaps you missed something, same as for me and other poeple who are opposite to what you say. A little debate is good



Aaron, jeff, mastero are still around...please come forward and explain

ricky: you need caps when starting you car. your alternator drains a lot of current, and also makes the current shoot up and down because it's a motor. the current and voltage aren't nearly constant, and you need caps to smooth this out.

If you have a crappy supply voltage and current, you'll stress your components in your PSU. This *might* cause the PSU to start producing out of spec voltages and currents (eg. it might drop out intermittantly), and cause the PC to reboot / shut down.

If you have a second battery, the second battery also acts as capacitor and keeps the voltage and current more stable while you're cranking.

ripple and noise are bad for switchmode power supplies...

ricky: you need caps when starting you car. your alternator drains a lot of current, and also makes the current shoot up and down because it's a motor. the current and voltage aren't nearly constant, and you need caps to smooth this out.

Yes, we know that and I agree.

The original post was about surviving a crank, A 1F cap simply wont hold the voltage at 12V for more than 3sec at 5A drain. From what I calculated its only good for less than half a second.

If you have a second battery, the second battery also acts as capacitor and keeps the voltage and current more stable while you're cranking.

Yes, again I agree, the big diffence is the battery can hold longer and have a flatter discharge rate while the capacitor discharge in an exponential way.

As I said...the original thread was to end the 1F vs battery tank circuit discussion. Seems many newbies go and ask time and time again if this 1F can survive the crank and no one gives any explanation why it will work, how it work. They then buy the 1F capacitor thinking that it will work for them, 1F is not exactly cheap.

The idea of this thread was to point the newbie to this thread and let them decide what will work for them.