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Thread: ITPS Regulation

  1. #41
    Raw Wave
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    Honestly, how many times in a day do you need to restart your car?

    Depend what you do. I (used to) and a friend who work as a field engineer and use the GPS alot...he probably start/stop 15-20 times a day it is sure more than enough to be a problem.

  2. #42
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    The thing I don't get, and correct me if you've experienced something different, how can it be a shutdown controller if you have anything that requires 12 volts (like a 3.5" drive).

    Here's what happens in my setup. I turn off the engine, the battery supplies 12.8 volts, the ITPS drops this to 10.2 for the power supply, and that 10.2 is passed to the 12 volt rail via the 120A PSU, meaning my hard drive suddenly stops functioning the instant I turn off the engine, the computer then because unusable/unstable and certainly can't shut down properly.

    So, as a shutdown controller, it doesn't work at all for me, not even a tiny bit. If you use laptop harddrives then ok, you're probably fine, but it seems a pretty critical thing to not mention that this thing can't reliably or reasonably operate as a shutdown controller if you have anything that needs 12 volts, like a 3.5" drive.

    I have heard of a couple of people using it with 3.5" drives, and I suppose those drives were just better able to handle serious undervoltages. Maybe other people are experiencing something different?

    Quincy

  3. #43
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    Ok, maybe I should change my wording a little to better state my position. Given the fault of using 3.5" harddrives is understandable. Mini-box should probably put an advisory about this issue. I won't aruge against that.

    I went with laptop harddrives because I read pdf files from mini-box and a few posts on here and determined that a 3.5" drive wouldn't be the best because of the issues you guys are statying here. I also went with a laptop harddrive because it is smaller and built for a mobile environment.

    Reread my post, I clearly stated what (in my case) the PW-70+ITPS is good for. Cheap, small, and effective for 99.9% of what I need. If it doesn't work for you then it doesn't work for you. All's I'm saying is you need to do research before you buy and you need to be realistic about what you are buying. If you want a bullet proof system then GO with this Opus. Heck I would have done so myself if it didn't cost so much. If on the otherhand you can live with the limitations of the ITPS then it's your ticket.

    Research, research, research....

  4. #44
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    Adamis, I don't know if you were directing your talk at me or not.

    Wasn't sure what you meant by "fault of using 3.5 inch drives". Maybe you just meant the word without much significant meaning. I read all about the 2.5" versus 3.5" drive discussions, and while I do realize that laptop drives are more suited to mobile environments, that doesn't mean they're the best choice, or that they are required. I do realize 3.5" drives aren't as rugged, but I've also heard of dozens of people using them in vehicles without any problems. I'll be sure to keep a backup current, so recovering from loss (if it should happen) won't be a big deal. The main reason I went with a 3.5" drive is because I've got 200+ GB of mp3s that I would like to keep synced from my house to the car, and I don't think you'll find any 2.5" drives that'll do that, and certainly not for anything like a reasonable price. So, we'll see. The odds are on my side for the drive working just fine for years to come.

    I think you misunderstand what I was saying. I'm certainly not saying anything against the PW-70+ITPS for situations where you DON'T need 12 volts. I have no reason to believe it's not absolutely perfect for that situation. This site and this subject is clearly all about finding and using whatever works, and whether it's a laptop power supply or a power supply from a decomissioned cruise missile, "it's all good". I don't recall if you started this thread, I was just adding my posts to this thread because I saw posts related to the undisclosed problems I was having.

    And as to your suggestion of "research", absolutely, and I did it, and I suspect many others here did it. But often you may see lots of positive posts from people and then only when you experience a specific problem find lots of others who are experiencing that same problem. The problem may be widespread but lost in the noise of those who don't have that problem. You don't know to look for it. And even so, this doesn't mean you don't still end up with something that fails to do what it says it does, fails to do what a reasonable person would reasonably expect. The motherboard power supply connector expects 12, 5, and 3.3 volts (or whatever it is). The PS + ITPS fails to deliver the 12 volt on battery power, meaning that on shutdown (and the ITPS _is_ a shutdown controller) it will utterly fail to deliver those 12 volts. That seems to me to be totally unreasonable, given the stated purpose of the product (a shutdown controller, meaning it must allow the machine to shut down).

    I spent two days or more exchanging e-mails with a guy selling the PS/ITPS, explaining what the problems were I was experiencing, and he was totally unaware of any of these issues, I ended up having to do all the research to prove the nature of the problem. And he's sold a lot of them.

    So, again, I've got nothing at all against this PS+ITPS for systems where it works, what could I have against that? It's cheap, it's small, super! I wish to god it would work for me! I'm just saying those selling it should/must warn people in big bold words that it is totally unsuitable for any system which has any devices requiring 12 volts (since people would very reasonably expect it to work). I'm sure I'm not the first person to have lost a good many hours having to figure this out the hard way (not to mention the hassle of having to find an alternate solution).

    Quincy

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricky327
    You are correct to say ITPS shoudnt have been released. The regulator it uses is just not suitable for car use...full stop.
    Finally we agree on something. I do respect your knowledge, I hope you realize that, I just think you are misguided on some things.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ricky327
    As been said before the PW70 should survive the crank even without the backup battery as long as you dont use the 12V rail from it.
    It seems, however, that the PW60/70/120 has some sort of low voltage cutoff that prevents it from working properly with the ITPS when the voltage drops, like when cranking, or in some instances, when the engine is off. Even with a backup battery.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ricky327
    I guess its only good for a shutdown controller but of course these guys are trying to get it to work as how it should perform...but unfortunately its not straight forward.
    It works perfectly as a startup/shutdown controller only, with the voltage regulator bypassed, I use it that way myself. It is really the best solution available for this.

  6. #46
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    Hello,

    I was looking at the mini-box site at there info about the ITPS, basically as i underdstandn it, it is possible to bypass the voltage regulation by shorting 2 contacts on the board with a bit of solder. So in order to use the computer with the engine off you need the regulation bypassed, and to use it whilst the engine is running you clearly dont want it shorted out otherwise you could fry your psu or mobo. is this correct?

    If so, could a solution to this problem be found using a switch connecting the two contacts on the ITPS so that when pressed the regulation is bypassed and comp can be used without engine running, then un-pressed whilst driving?

    Cheers

  7. #47
    Newbie BigRedBee's Avatar
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    It's not a problem unless your setup expects a clean 12V line. See my previous posts -- I've shorted the bumps and everything's working just fine. Your idea of switching sounds like it might work!
    VIA EPIA M10000 | 7" Lilliput Touch VGA | PW70 | 256 Meg RAM | 20 Gig 2.5" drive
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  8. #48
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    Finally we agree on something. I do respect your knowledge, I hope you realize that, I just think you are misguided on some things.

    Nonon...I think we have always agreed on this one, you just havent realised or must have forgoten

    My post #7 :

    Now tell something...what the heck is the LM1084 doing in that ITPS when the whole setup cannot work as soon as you put a 12V device, when the supposed to be 12V is well below this during normal operations?

    The LM1084 regulator was there for a reason...but for what reason when it cant be used with any 12V device unless your car is supplying 13.8V atleast. The ITPS designer must be somehow wishing the 12V supply will work in the car. But as you and others already proved and said it just simply wont work properly.

    Also look at post #4 my comment is already negative about the ITPS regulations, searching the thread would reveal more

    I think its me and adamis that dont agree this time, but we agreed on the battery tank though

    Now can we shake hand for the ITPS please

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by lummox
    Hello,

    I was looking at the mini-box site at there info about the ITPS, basically as i underdstandn it, it is possible to bypass the voltage regulation by shorting 2 contacts on the board with a bit of solder. So in order to use the computer with the engine off you need the regulation bypassed, and to use it whilst the engine is running you clearly dont want it shorted out otherwise you could fry your psu or mobo. is this correct?

    If so, could a solution to this problem be found using a switch connecting the two contacts on the ITPS so that when pressed the regulation is bypassed and comp can be used without engine running, then un-pressed whilst driving?

    Cheers
    yes if you short the vin and vout lines on the regualtor you will 'bypass' the regulator. I'm pretty sure it's the outter pins you need to short. If i remember corredtly from when i was builting my reg circuit using the 1084 the center pin was ground.

    and from what i understand, if you don't have any unregulated 12v devices there isn't a problem letting the 12v rail go unregulated. The PW-70 just passes this rail straight through. So it shouldn't damage the PS ... and I don't think the M10000 needs 12v anywhere so you shouldn't hurt that either. None says he's doing it ... so I guess it works ... and I'm going to do it in a few weeks here ... so I hope it works

    This brings something to mind tho ... i wonder how accurately the pw-70 steps down the voltage to the 5v and 3.3v lines. Meaning i wonder if the 5v line is truely 5v only when the input is 12v. So if you feed it 14v unregulated from the alternator i wonder if you'll get 5v on the 5v rail? ... hmmm... i'll have to test that.


    anyway, i've been staying out of this one cause i'm kinda tired of talking about the limitations of the ITPS ... considering it's been covered many times before. and the other guys seem to have this thread covered

    the bottom line is ... the limitations of the ITPS are well known. the heart of the device is a LDO linear regulator. By nature these guys need a good bit of voltage above the desired regulated output to provide a constant vout. It only makes sense that you probably won't get a steady 12v out.

    Honestly this is all you'll get for $40. You will not get a more efficient 12v regulator with shutdown controller for $40 anywhere else.

    But you can't expect a $40 device (ITPS) to work as well as a $200 device (opus).

    I myself have decided to bypass the regulator to break through the 60W cieling and just use the ITPS as a shutdown controller.
    My JeepPC Install

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  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by shakes
    None says he's doing it ... so I guess it works ... and I'm going to do it in a few weeks here ... so I hope it works
    Not exactly. I do use the ITPS with the regulator bypassed, but not with a pw70 passing along unregulated 12v. I use it with a Sproggy, which is fully regulated.

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