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Thread: Fuse Panel Question

  1. #11
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    I've heard the term used when describing how to survive "the crank". I've gotten the impression that its a battery, which is why it sounds funny to call it a circuit.

  2. #12
    Constant Bitrate P4_2.66GHz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by King_Aero
    I've heard the term used when describing how to survive "the crank". I've gotten the impression that its a battery, which is why it sounds funny to call it a circuit.
    So, we both don't know what we're talking about.

  3. #13
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    naw i tank circuit is not a battery. It is a large capacitor that has some diodes in it. The goal is to charge the cap with enough juice so your inverter can survive the crack of your car.. Ie when you start the car. If you have an inverter hooked up to your batter and start the car the voltage drops because your car needs all the amps the battery can give to start up the car. So most inverters have a low voltage shutoff.. so thats why inverters do not survive a crank
    '98 Explorer Sport
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  4. #14
    Constant Bitrate P4_2.66GHz's Avatar
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    What I would do is add a 5V relay that would trigger power to a DC-DC converter when your PC turns on. Use the stabilized power to feed your 12V cameras.
    That's a simple solution without going into too much into the details of your setup.

    How do you plan to turn on/off your system? Power from the on/off controller may be used to run the DC-DC converter.

  5. #15
    Constant Bitrate P4_2.66GHz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hijinks21
    naw i tank circuit is not a battery. It is a large capacitor that has some diodes in it. The goal is to charge the cap with enough juice so your inverter can survive the crack of your car.. Ie when you start the car. If you have an inverter hooked up to your batter and start the car the voltage drops because your car needs all the amps the battery can give to start up the car. So most inverters have a low voltage shutoff.. so thats why inverters do not survive a crank
    Some serious diodes are needed to make it work. I tired it once, but with a battery, and the diodes were heating up.

    I have found that using a 12V relay and a UPS battery does a similar trick. Since the voltage drops, relay releases the circuit and the alternative power is routed. My UPS battery is used to power my system when the car is off.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by P4_2.66GHz
    What I would do is add a 5V relay that would trigger power to a DC-DC converter when your PC turns on. Use the stabilized power to feed your 12V cameras.
    That's a simple solution without going into too much into the details of your setup.

    How do you plan to turn on/off your system? Power from the on/off controller may be used to run the DC-DC converter.
    I would love to have online whiteboard to draw this out. I'm alittle confused with this design. I thought it would be something like this:

    +12V fuse block ----- DC-DC Conv ----- Clean 12V ----- DC/DC 5V --- PC
    .........................|........................ .......................|
    .........................+-- On/Off Switch .......................+----- LCD
    .................................................. ........................|
    .................................................. ........................+----- Camera 1
    .................................................. ........................|
    .................................................. ........................+----- Camera 2

    (Ignore the dots, the board parses out the dead space)

    Where does the relay fit in?

    I don't plan on starting the system with the car because I don't see myself needing it everytime I go somewhere. Plus, its not a system built for solely entertainment purposes nor is it replacing my head unit. In the above diagram, when I start my vehicle I would have the switch in the off position and if I'm using the system I'd flip the switch. Its not elegant but the purpose of my project is to improve offroad ability through technology versus big wheels, lift kits, etc. Since I'm not always going offroad the system does not need to be enabled everytime I go somewhere.

    Aero

  7. #17
    Constant Bitrate P4_2.66GHz's Avatar
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    A quick suggestion, use unregulated 12V for your 5V conversion as well as the monitor.

    Use a nice 10+ amp switch with 14 gauge wires and you should be OK running without a relay.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by P4_2.66GHz
    A quick suggestion, use unregulated 12V for your 5V conversion as well as the monitor.

    Use a nice 10+ amp switch with 14 gauge wires and you should be OK running without a relay.
    Okay, that sounds good. I just wanted to make sure if I did that it would be okay and that I didn't need anything more.

  9. #19
    Maximum Bitrate none's Avatar
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    A friendly warning: there are plenty of people around here these days, answering questions and acting authoritatively, who don't have a clue what they are talking about. Take any advice you get here with a grain of salt and follow it up with a healthy dose of searching previous posts.

    If you take offense at what I have said, you already know you are doing something wrong.

  10. #20
    Constant Bitrate P4_2.66GHz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by none
    A friendly warning: there are plenty of people around here these days, answering questions and acting authoritatively, who don't have a clue what they are talking about. Take any advice you get here with a grain of salt and follow it up with a healthy dose of searching previous posts.

    If you take offense at what I have said, you already know you are doing something wrong.
    If I am wrong somewhere, please correct me or post your opinion on the subject.
    I know quite a bit but not quite enough.

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