Thread: Opus = Best, but will ITPS suffice for low end?

Cool, i was contemplating which setup to go with.. Option 2 seems to be the best choice for me Thanks confused!

I'd like to throw in option #3, a mix of option #1 and option #2.
Make a switch to either send constant 12V or ACC to the Opus PS ACC input. You will need 2 diodes and a switch to do this. Diodes may be avoided if using a 2-way switch.
This way you have an option of having your PC on regardless of ignition key input, or on/off based on it. One may even choose to go with a 3-way switch to have the ACC wire input cut completely.

That's how mine is setup.

Originally Posted by Confused

Opus will work with the car off. ITPS + whatever won't.

There is a 1.3V dropout on the regulator in the ITPS, so to give out 12V, you need to input at least 13.3V, which you don't get when a car is switched off.


Garry

the 1.3V dropout... that i hadn't read about... the ITPS wired to the ACC and 12V lines won't run w/o alternator?

with the latter post regarding switching the ACC circuit... i was going to do this myself w/ITPS. be nice to override auto-on and keep it off for short trips. i was thinking along the lines of just throwing a simple rocker switch (similar to a fog light switch, is that a 2-way?) on there.

but an ITPS really won't run w/car off? i figured it might not get past cranking voltage drop... but OK running off battery (usually runs about 11.5V or so don't they?)

Is it just me? or do others feel like we've been down this path before.

The ITPS will drop the input by about 1.3V. If you only feed it 12V, then it will generate 10.7V. If your setup on the other end of the ITPS can tolerate this, then YES, you can run with the car off. Mine couldn't. Either the motherboard (m10000) or the powersupply (PW70A) was shutting down as a result.

I'm currently running with a second battery (tank) and no ITPS. I have no 12V components. I turn everything on and off via the front panel switch, and have the BIOS configured to hibernate after 30 minutes. I run the Lilliput off of the battery, using the 'egg shaped' regulator. This setup works for me, and survives a crank.

I've also got a switch between the battery and the powersupply to remove power entirely from the whole setup.

Originally Posted by P4_2.66GHz

I'd like to throw in option #3, a mix of option #1 and option #2.
Make a switch to either send constant 12V or ACC to the Opus PS ACC input. You will need 2 diodes and a switch to do this. Diodes may be avoided if using a 2-way switch.
This way you have an option of having your PC on regardless of ignition key input, or on/off based on it. One may even choose to go with a 3-way switch to have the ACC wire input cut completely.

That's how mine is setup.

I agree with option three entirely. Just set up a three position switch to Off->On->ACC and you'll be Set!

I like the mix of the dual switch idea. I wish I could set it up though the ACC/ignition actually sent the computer in hibernate.

[QUOTE=
The ITPS will drop the input by about 1.3V. If you only feed it 12V, then it will generate 10.7V. If your setup on the other end of the ITPS can tolerate this, then YES, you can run with the car off. Mine couldn't. Either the motherboard (m10000) or the powersupply (PW70A) was shutting down as a result.
QUOTE]

WTF? if the thing is gonna shut down w/o alternator, then how does it stay running to initiate shutdown sequence? eh? ie i turn off my car... ITPS initiates shutdown and stays on til off.

The PW-70A and ITPS is so much cheaper than an OPUS... and smaller.

Yeah, but it sounds like it's cheaper because it offers you less... I'm sure the supply/demand on the OPUS helps keep it's price high too.