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Thread: Speakers using a modified sine wave inverter

  1. #31
    Newbie
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    18
    I understand the idea of everyone trying to help everyone out, and those were my intentions when I started this post
    Instead of people giving me the information I asked for, I get flamed for my ideas WITHOUT good REASON
    was he trying to help? he didn't give me any REASONS to go with a 4 chan amp; he only said, he "REALLY THINK[S]" I should go with a 4 chan amp
    Opinions are like assholes, everyone's got them and they all stink
    So if you want to help someone, try and give some information (reasons) instead of just mere opinion because, again, this is the internet
    As for you Q_gamelogic, I may have been a bit hasty in the moron comment, because you actually gave a reason (Long/short throw) and I saw that before, but I wasn't quite sure if that would affect the sound so much. I was planning on setting up the sub in the car to test how it would sound. Other than that, I don't see anything else that would affect the sound quality
    No one else who has posted on this thread has given a good reason to not go with the logitechs

  2. #32
    Low Bitrate
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Curacao, Netherlands Antilles
    Posts
    75
    *** quote was a bit too much too ...... not nice at all...


    some assholes smell worse then others you know



    by the way .. i have a 800watt (1600 peak) 7amps ... power inverter .... modified sine wave .... or whatever .... works well

  3. #33
    Newbie
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5
    a few things..

    1) Car audio and Home audio are two different worlds. PC audio maybe a third. many Speakers designed for PC/home use will not withstand the rigors of the auto environment. After time, the cones and surrounds will crack because they are just plain paper/foam. the subwoofer itself, in the car, isnt loaded properly for how the subwoofer and box is designed. The power requirements of car audio are vastly different than home because of road/engine noise and you are driving in an eletrical field loaded with noise.

    2) I have a set of the Z560s. they're amazing speakers with good midrange response and an awesome 8" ported sub box powered by a 200w amp. however I know that the speakers i have in my car are better (they better be they cost $350/pair) because they were designed for car. i wouldnt dream of putting these speakers into the car. The 8" sub though, is quite a peice. I have a broken set of Z560's (no control module) and took it apart. The amplifier in the unit is a true Class AB, 5-channel audio amp with amazing 87volt rails (that is +87v 0v -87v) for the power amp. it can definitly put its foot down.

    3) as many have said in the beginning of the thread to get a DC-DC converter, this is not possible with this system. they've also said to get a normal car audio amp claiming it would be cheaper and/or easier.

    Well both are false and to match the quaility of the Z560's what would you need ?

    http://www.hookedontronics.com/show_...s.jsp?cid=1026
    Alpine MRV-F450; 50 watts RMS x 4 + 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms ; $308

    http://www.hookedontronics.com/show_...s.jsp?cid=1299
    Alpine SPR-136A; 5 1/4" component; $138 if he wants 4 channel, thats >$260

    http://www.hookedontronics.com/show_...s.jsp?cid=1191
    Alpine SWR-1041D 12" sub, $98

    then he needs to hook it up, build a box for the sub (or buy one), so i'd estimate that to be ~ $100

    Total? 644 for the two channel, 782 for the 4 channel. and the prices at this website are awesome. this setup is 4x the price and you might very well get 4x the performance, but lets not also forget that you'll need to get a head unit if you dont already have one. decent head units run another $200. if the author is unable to perform the install himself, thats going to be a substantional price increase.

    buying stuff off of ebay you might get these for cheaper, but getting a $10 12" sub is just that, a $10 sub. This isnt to say that everything on ebay is cheap, i got my KX300.2 75x2 amp for $100 on ebay.

    4) the most important thing in car audio is how you, the owner, like the sound of your system. To me, It could sound like total crap and i'll probably say so, but the important opinion is your own.


    All that said, if i was forced to do something like that, i'd pick up the z560 for sub/amp, scrap the satalite speakers and get some car speakers from alpine, adire audio, kicker, polk, boston acoustic, mb quart, etc that fit in your factory locations. when wiring you should mount the inverter next to your sub box. keep the AC cable tied and neat to prevent any excess movement. get some better quaility speaker cable than what the Z560's come with for the car enviroment. when wiring the inverter itself, use wire rated for the inverters current draw (it should say on it) and for the length of wire. 20 feet of 10 gauge cable will let you pull something like 20 amps without issue, plenty of current for the inverter. connect the ground of the inverter like you would an amplifier. there are plenty of places around the web to find info bout that.

    and last, crutchfield carries some good, even high end, brands, but many high-end brands are not nor will never be in crutchfield. you dont see JL Audio, MB Quart, Apines F1 series (although those are very expensive) speakers in crutchfield.

    there are also almost never head of companies that make incredable speakers like Adire Audio.

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