Why would you need so many Amps on 3.3 an 5 volt rails?
I have been doing a lot of reading and researching the past few weeks and feel confident I can accomplish this somewhat lofty goal.
I am thinking the specs I am wanting to design for are:
3.3V @ ~20A
5V @ ~20A
12V @ ~10A
5V stby @ 2A
over a range of 8V-16V. I think for my first design I am going to go with just the power components and leave board space for shutdown control circuitry to be added later if the first phase turns out like I think it will.
What kind of interest would the rest of you have in a project like this?
I realize that Maestro has just added a new offering but it seems like some people have some seriously power hungry setups and I think as time goes on people will continue to add more and more power hungry devices.
Why would you need so many Amps on 3.3 an 5 volt rails?
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I am interested! I can offer you some ideas as I have done a lot of research into this with a friend. pm me and I can give you some more info.Originally Posted by MrPerfectionest
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5v hard drives run off of. what if i want 4 hard drives. come on i got 7 hard drives in my home box
Im also interested in the idea. I had a look at whats involved but didnt get very far due to lack of time
With the shutdown controller...I had done alot of research on it and Im almost ready to publish my complete design in here. If you need more infos just PM.
Hopefuly oneday we will have a complete selfbuild DC-DC PSU
I would also like to see a power supply that can operate down to 10 volts input. My Opus shuts down just below 12 Volts.
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Not to put you down, but...
Why would you want to run a 300W computing platform in your car? Please remember that your 300W output will require some 400W input if you can achieve 75% efficiency.
At 12V that's a whopping 33 Ampere of continuous current being drawn from your battery and/or alternator. You're in for a whole lot of dead batteries...
Unless you want to play high-end games in your car (you don't, really), why not concentrate on PC platforms with lower power consumption.
Well, I purchased one of the original Sproggy MK3 PCBs back when they were first offered and it powered a p100 based system for several years and 40,000 or so miles. At the time CoilCraft had stopped giving samples of their transformer so I had to get fairly intimate with the design to find a replacement. Along the way I built a dc-dc controller (more or less a copy of the MK3 with my substitutions) for an N64. I have done tons and tons of reading ever since then because the idea of dc-dc supplies has fascinated me. The only thing is I don't have too much 'real' experience with high high power applications, but the only things that are worrying me is taking the time to do a proper layout (which the datasheets give you good information on which lines to keep away from each other). So it isn't really whether if it is possible or not, its just a matter of time really. I have already done a lot of calculating and parts hunting for the 12V rail which is the most difficult rail and I am pretty sure I have everything nailed down for 10A at 8-16V.Im also interested in the idea. I had a look at whats involved but didnt get very far due to lack of time
I also have quite a bit of experience with Atmel microcontrollers so I am not too worried about this part either.With the shutdown controller...I had done alot of research on it and Im almost ready to publish my complete design in here. If you need more infos just PM.
Basically micros and dc-dc supplies are the two things over the past few years I have put a lot of effort into doing and learning so I am confident I can deliver on a good supply.
I agree 100%. But from looking around the boards here lately it really seems like people are wanting to go the cheaper route and opt for standard atx boards and standard hard drives and things rather than low power stuff, which tends to be more expensive. For people trying to do things on a budget, it is more attractive to go with standard components and an inverter + ATX PSU than mini-itx + Opus (easily 400 or so more). So if I can come through with a dc-dc supply that will be similar in cost to an inverter setup and cheaper than Opus it would be nice.Why would you want to run a 300W computing platform in your car? Please remember that your 300W output will require some 400W input if you can achieve 75% efficiency.
Ok, 300W is probably overkill, which is why I posted this thread. I am trying to get a feel for what kind of setups people are running. With my design as it is I am having to do some rather unfriendly trickier to acheive 10A on the 12V line, and even at this power level am starting to push the limits of MOSFET and capacitor technology. To go any higher and I am going to have to start either adding parallel components which is just a hastle or go with designs that are much more complex than the ones I am using.
i would love a 300+ watt PSU not for my car but my house.. every single one of my PSU's gets really load within 3 months. I HATE IT
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