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Thread: 200 Watt DC-DC PSU

  1. #31
    Constant Bitrate STI_FFY's Avatar
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    Missed it by... that much.

    USPS tried to deliver my supply today, but no one was home so in typical fashion they took it to the post office where I can pick it up tomorrow. What a pain. They should just leave it at the door or in the mailbox.

    Oh well, no review from me till tomorrow...
    SeeYa! -Jim-

  2. #32
    Maximum Bitrate TimmyM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dug1967
    It seems to me that the last great PSU AudioForge was hawking on eBay was the PW-120 which was nothing more than a restamped Mini-Box PW-70A and somehow they managed to get another 20 Watts out of it by restamping it....

    So maybe this PW-200 is just a restamped Mini-Box PW-80 and they really did some good stamping and added another 120 watts...... I just don't trust AudioForge... just always struck me as "not right" and shady....

    As dieselBenz pointed out, ever taking their numbers as fact, they are running at 104% effiecency.... their designer should be Billonaires here pretty soon and OPEC will be a distant memory

    But, please let us know how it works out for you.... prove me wrong... I will buy one...
    432 positive feedback. You don't get that by being shady.

  3. #33
    Maximum Bitrate Rundell's Avatar
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    I'm hoping to get mine as well tomorrow! And the Mobo for it on Friday. Hopefully it works out good. I'll let everyone know.

  4. #34
    Constant Bitrate StationRocket's Avatar
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    So by the look of the unit's size i'd say that 200W has got to be the peak power. Maybe not but i'd be shocked. I don't think this really matters though because you don't need anywhere near that kind of power for a typical car PC. I'm running an Epia 1gh, full size hard drive, a slim dvd/cdrw and a few fans off a power supply rated at 90W. Somewhere in the forums there's a link to a cool power calculator for PC components.

    There are so many ways that manufactures "lie" about ratings to make thier stuff look better than the conpetition that it's hard to know what's what. For example a 1hp electric motor from 1970 is very likley twice as strong as the stuff being soold as 3hp today.

    As far as the whole cap/second battery crank topic there are a lot of good posts that cover it already so search on "tank circuit" Caps are for miliseconds, batteries are for storage and tank circuits fill the gap. Some cars may stay within the opp limits of that unit while cranking but i think many will not. A cheap multimeter will tell you.

    Oh and one last note. I'm sure the connectors on that thing will be fine but i'm also sure you're gonna want to use a fan to move some air by it. Otherwise you're begging for the thing to fail and take the rest of your stuff with it. Remember that 200w rating is definatly with active cooling and likley a ton of it.

  5. #35
    Variable Bitrate stimps's Avatar
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    any fans in a CAR PC install should be running directly from the car's 12 electrics. and not thru a power supply. there is simply no need to regulate the 12 for an electric fan.
    Unless of course its the CPU fan and its on the hardware monitor.

  6. #36
    Low Bitrate Deadnick's Avatar
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    Got my PS today.

    Here is a pic I just took of the Ebay 200 watt power supply, it is very small but very heavy. I will try it out tomorrow if I get a minute and let you guys know how it goes.


  7. #37
    Low Bitrate Deadnick's Avatar
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    Might as well post the rest of the pictures to my CarPC sitting on a desk running It will be in the car in the next 2 weeks hopefully.

    Picture #1
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    Woot!

  8. #38
    Jesus Freak antimatter's Avatar
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    as StationRocket said a will yeild good results on tank/capacitor.

    I have an Opus and I still don't survive a crank. Although i do have a very weak electrical system coupled with a crap battery (all which i am rectifying)

    Keep us posted
    -Jesus- King of Kings Lord of Lords

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimmyM
    432 positive feedback. You don't get that by being shady.
    Timmy... I am not commenting on AudioForges ability to ship out product they sell, from all I have seen they are first rate when it comes to that, They offer a product at a decent price and meet there obligations of the sales....

    I only question their presentation of the ability of the products they sell.... If somebody can expalin how they get 20 more wats out of a PW-70A just by calling it a PW-120 maybe I will change my opinion....

  10. #40
    Constant Bitrate STI_FFY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dug1967
    I only question their presentation of the ability of the products they sell.... If somebody can expalin how they get 20 more wats out of a PW-70A just by calling it a PW-120 maybe I will change my opinion....
    Did you actually see a PW-70a that they stamped as PW-120 or did you guess from photos?

    I own both a PW-70a and now a PW-120 (this isn't a PW-200 like audioforge said it was in the EBAY listing).

    Mini-box makes a whole range of these things and the PW-120-M / PW-200-V are the latest. They are not actually to be "released" until June 15th.

    Here are links to the announcement of these new family members.

    Link1
    Link2

    Apparently audio forge is confused as to the nomenclature? PW-120-M is capable of 200 watts, and is designed for EPIA-M (there is no error in the silkscreened model number as was indicated in the EBAY listing). PW-200-V is also 200 watts, but is designed for EPIA-V.

    I'll still need my ITPS for sequencing, and I plan to use it's regulated 12 Volt output to activate a relay that feeds the PW-120-M from the car's DC supply directly. This way the total power available to the EPIA will not be restricted by the smaller ITPS' current limitation. I will also use the ITPS 12 volt out to power my Lilliput, and maybe the fans (to offload the PW-120 further).
    SeeYa! -Jim-

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