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Thread: quick question

  1. #1
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    quick question

    I am new to all this, thought I would start bench testing my stuff.

    I hooked up everything to a 200w DC-DC that uses one of the ITPS to control it.
    I started using the supplyied molex 1 to 2 plug and hooked up a old DVD rom drive and 3.5" harddrive to the system. I also spliced off the +5 volt to feed a USB 2.0 hub.

    When I try to install the os, the harddrive flops on and off. I can hear it. I was under the impression that the 200w would be fine for 2 devices, the motherboard, and a usb hub. (I actually have a 2nd 200watt supply that I was going to hard wire the atx 14/15 pins to so that the motherboard would also bring the rails for the 2nd supply online to feed additional power supply devices, I have a 2nd ITPS for it as well). I was bench testing with a 12volt accessory car start device, I believe this is probally the problem, so I just ordered a 9-18volt regulated dc power supply, if it isnt the prob, I can always use one. My MB is a MII-10000 mini-itx. I've been reading here, listening to all talk about a huge heatsink on PSU, mine is a little PCB that snaps onto the motherboard, no heatsink, only the ITPS has a little heat sink, am I dealling with a joke for my PSU? I paid only 99.00 for each 200 DC-DC with the ITPS, good o'le ebay....

    I actually unhooked all the USB stuff so just MB, 3.5 7200 rpm, and 5.25 DVD/Rom and had the same problem so I just want someone to tell me that its my source rather than my PSU. I wish I had a car or car battery to test with, but car is at shop.

    Thanks guys..

  2. #2
    FLAC robiewp's Avatar
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    what motherboard are you using, or did I miss that somewhere in your post? I would expect 200 watts to be sufficient, however, i would not expect most little ac-dc adapaters to provide enough power - i think you were barking up the right tree.
    car computer rev 5: 8" lilliput and usual suspects

  3. #3
    Raw Wave Rob Withey's Avatar
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    Are you using the ITPS to pre-regulate the 12v before feeding into the power supply? The ITPS is only rated at 5A, ie, 60W.

    How are you feeding the whole thing, from the car battery or a 12v "brick"?

    I think those snap on type power supplies don't regulate the 12v line.

    I recommend you do it right, and get an Opus.
    Old Systems retired due to new car
    New system at design/prototype stage on BeagleBoard.

  4. #4
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    First question, its a MII-10000 Mini-Itx

    The power source I was using is one of those "emergency jump start a car things" You charge it slowly with an adapter, but when your car is dead, it will start your car with jumper cables (I figured it was pretty strong) because it can start a car?

    I am wiring the whole thing to the ITPS via +12 ign and +12constant wired together and to the Positive of the source, +12 ground to the ground. Then there is a output from the ITPS that is 12V +/- that connects to the 12V +/- on the 200watt supply snapped on the Mini-ITX, the psu had 1 molex +5v,gnd,gnd,+12v standard pc connector and the package included a y-cable to turn it into 2. I took one of the connectors straight to the harddrive (120gig 3.5" WD) and the second to a 5.25" tray load DVD -r/rw. Each drive is connected via 133 cables. The powersupply has a 5v +/- connector on the top that I tapped into and supplied power to a USB 2.0 hub to test the XMPCR, TV Tuner, FM Tuner, IR Remote Control, TV out box. I actually bought 2 of these power supply's because I was going to run 2 of them, wiring each on to its own ITPS and to my 3 battery (par) car system. My intent was to have the PSU on the motherboard control some of the load, and jumping ATX pins 14/15 over to the second PSU to force it to turn its rail power on, and load the 2nd powersupply with most of the USB load. I have 2 external USB2.0 to IDE aluminum cases that are going to house the IDE hard drives, and an external DVD+-R/RW drive that is also going to get added. The internal Drive/DVD I mention were just for bench testing. I was told that 1 (200w) supply would handle it all by users here, but I dont think my stuff is the OPUS type quality, as I stated above, I actually disconnected EVERYTHING except the MB, H.D.D, and DVD and got the same results.

    Both the PSU and ITPS are produced by mini-box.
    Thanks

  5. #5
    Variable Bitrate no1knows's Avatar
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    that PSU i've seen before, its 200W rating is ludicrous, the amount of extra cooling that thing needs to effectively output 200W is huge.

    Although saying that, it should handle your setup, an M10000 and a HD alone only consume about 50W max, so id have to say its your 12V source, the ITPS or the HD itself.
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  6. #6
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    thanks, I can only wait until I get the bench test Regulated DC or car battery, I have 2 120gig HDD, both did the same thing, so I ruled out the HDD. I replaced the PSU and ITPS since I had 2, same thing, so I'm thinking its the source as well. Thanks again..

  7. #7
    Variable Bitrate no1knows's Avatar
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    i suggest you try your whole setup inside with a normal ATX PSU to make sure all your components are working. Do this before even thinking about 12V power supply, thats wot i and most people do, set everything up (software e.t.c) insdie then chuck it in the car.
    Mods: 18" Boss rims,Twin custom stainless exhaust,cold air induction.
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  8. #8
    FLAC
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    I really hate to throw stones, but you guys may want to take a look at this.... . Sounds like this PSU fits in the Vendor B catagory.
    MikeH

  9. #9
    Raw Wave Rob Withey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeH
    I really hate to throw stones, but you guys may want to take a look at this.... . Sounds like this PSU fits in the Vendor B catagory.
    Well said. It's been said before, and I'm sure it'll be said again. And I'm sure some people still won't learn.

    PS: buy an Opus, most people seem happy with them (not speaking from experience, I built my own psu). They seem like a more than capable Vendor A category power supply.
    Old Systems retired due to new car
    New system at design/prototype stage on BeagleBoard.

  10. #10
    Banned Motorcity's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeH
    I really hate to throw stones, but you guys may want to take a look at this.... . Sounds like this PSU fits in the Vendor B catagory.
    thanks for the great eye opener.
    cost drives most people to purchase the vendor B product.
    I cannot stress enough the simple fact that you get what you pay for.
    It is amazing how many people end up buying a product twice while trying to save a buck.
    Opus or Arise should be considered the rule of thumb when purchasing a DC-DC power supply, unless of course one is capable of building their own PS.

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