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Thread: Opus 150 and System issues

  1. #1
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    Opus 150 and System issues

    Would someone be so kind as to possibly give me some direction.

    About 2 months ago I removed a Pioneer AVIC-N1 from my system because I just thought that the limits of a head unit were not as functional as a CarPC.

    My system consists of 2 Memphis MOJO 2400D amps (3000w@1ohm) and 2 Memphis 400x4 for the midbass/mids/highs.

    I have (2) Optima Yellow Top D-31T (Commercial Deep Cycle) wired parallel.
    All the wiring is done 0/1 guage, with the stock ford altenator and a 260 amp Ohio altenator waiting to be installed.

    I've tried all the cheap power supplyies and have had all the problems everyone else has had, so I went with the opus.

    While I built the system configuring the computer and all via usb keyboard and touchscreen monitor, I was really happy with the system surviing cold cranks and staying online as power drained from the system. It wasnt until today that I actually got the remote turn on wired in to power up all the amps, 17" monitor, 2 6" monitors, secondary DVD/Head unit, PS2, invertor, etc.

    With all the other accessories on, the opus started to reboot the pc, not power off, but instanious "reboot", like the reset was pushed. No down time, or power off/ then on, just "reboot". I turned everything off that kicks on via remote turn on via switch and the opus stays up. I have inline voltage monitors in place at multiple locations. Based on memory of old readings I think I have suffiecnt power, 11.98 volts off/13.8volts engine running.

    Any suggestions?

    BTW. Power layout is done this way.

    o/1 from engine optima +12v to rear optima +12volt (each battery is grounded 0/1 twice to two location <12" from each battery). Two 0/1 feeds from rear battery to 10 farad cap/power distribution system. from Cap/Distribution system> 0 guage +12 to amp1, 0guage +12v to amp2, 4 guage +12v to 4channel amp1, 4 guage +12v to 4channel amp2, 12guage +12v to 17" monitor, 14 guage +12volt leads to 6" monitor, 6" monitor, 400w invertor. 16guage +12volt to wireless headphone sender, opus power supply, alternate in dash DVD reciever.

    The opus +12volts is feeding a m10000, internal 2.5", Internal slot dvd-r, the +12 and +5 are spliced out to run usb a/v in device, external 5.1 processor, 4 port hub, XM tuner, GPS.

    Any help in unserstanding this would be great, need more info ask please.

    Thanks
    SD

  2. #2
    Constant Bitrate mikevsgeek's Avatar
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    how many amps are the remote devices drawing from the Opus? as i understand, the Opus is only capable of putting out .75A thru the remote-trigger LED so you might need to look into a relay to turn on all your devices...

  3. #3
    Constant Bitrate KaiTech's Avatar
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    Voltage is too low. The 150W PSU measures voltage at the end of the power supply, not at the input side. Either get a bigger battery or send your PSU in for the low voltage shutdown to be modified. (Default its at 10.6V)

    Also you should use 12G for the PSU.
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  4. #4
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    Huh?

    The devices are fired on by a switch via relay, the opus/carputer does not control power/power up of any of the regualr stero equipment, the opus feeds +5v off of the molex connector, not the aux +5v. This splice +5v feeds 1 5volt 4port 2.0 hub, and 1 Adaptec USB Tv Tuner/AV Input device.

    A bigger battery? Im running two Optima d31T's

    Specs:

    Volts Amp*Hours CCA@0F CA@ 32F J240 Life cycles Deep Cycles Reserve minutes
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    12 75 900 1125 10-12,000 ~350 155

    Come again? If 2 of these parallel wired cant power this, what the hell? These batteries are 2 months old. And ran a competition install for over 45 minutes with the car off.


    More comments please...

    Thanks

    : I'm in the process of cutting the the 16 guage +12volt to the opus from the distribution to a 12 guage +12v directly to the +12 of a battery with 40amp inline fuse. Not that I think this will fix it, but I just finished reading here how "this is the way" to do this. Right now the system is getting its power post 10farad capacitor/power distribution system.

    And, more info on modifiying the opus for low voltage shutdown modification, who, where, how, etc... Thanks again..

  5. #5
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    I've posted on some car audio forums as well. I re-tested the batteries with the car running, the voltage is like 11.90 now. Looks like I fried something in the original altenator or voltage regulator (I dont even know if a 98 Ford Expedition has the voltage regulation in the alt or not) but I have a 250amp Ohio altenator that I wont install into the truck until I know what killed the stock alternator? Could it have been too much required by the two batteries that just killed a stock alternator/voltage regualator?

    Any additional help here? Tomorrow I am going to charge the optima's with a 10/40/200 amp charger at 40amps. See if the batteries are fried as well.

    Thanks in advance...

  6. #6
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    I used to have this problem. Sort of. Random reboots. I was using an orbitmicor 250 dc-dc psu. I had the psu mounted outside the pc case. Once i mounted the psu inside a case all the problems disapeared. I think the main problem with me was ground. It could be the same with your system.

  7. #7
    Constant Bitrate KaiTech's Avatar
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    I was'nt saying your batteries are bad just that the voltage is too low... At 11.9 with all the amps and lcds on the opus probably sees under 10.6 and thats too low...
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  8. #8
    pip
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    Maximum Bitrate pip's Avatar
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    But wasn't that 11.9 with the engine OFF & 13.8 with it running. The Opus would be seeing 13.8V surely? However, 11.9v would explain a lot......
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  9. #9
    Constant Bitrate KaiTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pip
    But wasn't that 11.9 with the engine OFF & 13.8 with it running. The Opus would be seeing 13.8V surely? However, 11.9v would explain a lot......
    It all depends where you measure.
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  10. #10
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    I charged the batteries with a 40amp and successfully fired up everything today and maintained a stable battery. My draw is just about equal to my charging it seems. Yesturday, I built the pc off the battery and while trying to run everything after a hour or so of draw and it seems the altenator wasnt able to "charge" anything to the batteries, just substain it where it was. With fresh charge on the cells, and the engine cranked, I saw 14.25 across the front battery, 13.50 at the rear, with the engine running and everything on, engine running, it hit like 14.24 so It looks like the drain is higher then the charge going in, this will lead to a crappy experience I can see. Time to replace the stock 60amp with the 250 ohio, should help with some of this problem. I guess 8000watts of amps isn't easy on the battery, and then toss a carputer on top of that...

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