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Thread: 200w Snap-On blah blah blah...

  1. #1
    And then I was mod. Tidder's Avatar
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    200w Snap-On blah blah blah...

    mp3car sells this: "200w Snap-On Miniature 12v DC Power Supply"

    Is this manufactured by mini-box? If so, is this one capable of supporting a P4 processor as it states on the mini-box website?

    Mini-box part: PW-120-M 12V, 200Watts ATX micro PSU
    Tidder

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  2. #2
    Clover Grayscale's Avatar
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    yep...and its a good psu however its vulnerable and open (just a circuit board) can be shorted easily. the pw-70a is less vulnerable cause there are no caps on the back. i've fried the 200w one on accident by shorting some caps when testing a voltage.
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  3. #3
    And then I was mod. Tidder's Avatar
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    Have you seen my setup? All my crap is out in the open (basically).
    Now, the pw-70a, it's P4 capable? See, the 200w one is supposed to have a place on it to solder a P412v connector.
    Tidder

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    Clover Grayscale's Avatar
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    yeah, it had one of those square four pin connectors. not the rectangular molex kind but the other. good stuff. i hope you aren't planning on using an ITPS cause you won't survive crank if you do.

    you probably won't anways, just use a 4.5Ah SLA battery for a tank circuit like i did. no probs now ^_^ and its only 20 bucks on batterystuff.com
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  5. #5
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grayscale
    yeah, it had one of those square four pin connectors. not the rectangular molex kind but the other. good stuff. i hope you aren't planning on using an ITPS cause you won't survive crank if you do.

    you probably won't anways, just use a 4.5Ah SLA battery for a tank circuit like i did. no probs now ^_^ and its only 20 bucks on batterystuff.com
    I'm going down this route. Care to share your tank circuit? I'm worried mine won't work due to the high current requirements 200*W implies and the effect of that on the tank battery.
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  6. #6
    Clover Grayscale's Avatar
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    positive battery terminal to diode -->|-- to positive SLA battery lead to positive computer lead.

    ground to negative battery lead to neg comp lead


    now. if the sla gets drained its gonna be getting a LOT of current forced in it to recharge. my circuit has no current limiting. just dont let the battery die because if you put more than the current rating of the battery it damages it. in my case its like 1.5 amps i think. or get a hawker brand battery. their plates can't get damaged with overcurrent but i'm sure they're more expensive.

    as long as you have at least a 2Ah battery i'm sure you'd be fine. just get like a 4.5Ah batt like mine
    CarPC install is starting to come along again...

  7. #7
    FLAC
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    Hmm, you're using an EPIA board. I thought you were using something more power hungry when you mentioned the 200W snap on.

    I'm estimating at least 12A current draw for my AMD mATX system. That will cause significant voltage drop on a 7.2Ah batter thay will be supplying it. The EPIA doesn't really use the 12V so that will probably have little effect on your setup (unless you use a 3.5" hdd). It will potentially wreak havoc with mine (amd + 3.5" hdd require good 12V).
    Progress: 80% - Permanent install left.
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  8. #8
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    Well I was all ready to buy the snap on 70w or 200w psu with an ITPS for my system (some places are selling them together as a package). Then you said:

    Quote Originally Posted by Grayscale
    i hope you aren't planning on using an ITPS cause you won't survive crank if you do.

    you probably won't anways, just use a 4.5Ah SLA battery for a tank circuit like i did. no probs now ^_^ and its only 20 bucks on batterystuff.com
    Did you mean only a P4 system will not survive the crank?
    Why won't this system work?

    I'm planning a PIII or VIA EPIA M10000 based system with a 3.5" HD, 512 MB RAM, FM tuner, GPS mouse, 5.1 Audigy, Laptop DVD drive, Wireless LAN card, a capable graphics card (to be determined), and XMDirect. Will this system work ok with the snap on and ITPS?

    Thanks alot for the info.

  9. #9
    Raw Wave Confused's Avatar
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    The ITPS only regulates 60W of power. If you bypass the regulator, then you will be sending anything from 8-15V into your PC, which isn't good.

    Even if you DID use the regulation on the ITPS, you will need the engine to be on in order to provide 13.3V into the ITPS so that it can give 12V out.

    My personal recommendation is to get an Opus. You WON'T be disappointed with it, but I know you probably will be disappointed if you get an ITPS.

    If you have a case with a 60W PSU already inside it (such as the Morex/Travla cases) and will only need 60W of power, then get a Carnetix CNX-P1260, which is similar to the ITPS, but actually does good regulation of the voltage


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  10. #10
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    Gary thanks alot for the explanation! Makes total sense. There are so many fine points on the electrical side of this installation that could be overlooked. I appreciate the explanation.

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