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Thread: Opus wont power up, wtf?! Help please!

  1. #31
    Constant Bitrate KaiTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pyros
    Hrmm well i'll triple check it. I sincerely doubt its a bad ground especialy considering I'm using the ground off the wiring harness that any other stereo would normally use :S

    Thanks,
    Chris
    Don't. Get ground from the chasis maximum a foot away from your power supply, short thick wire. (12AWG or less)
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  2. #32
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    Hey Pyros, have you made any headway with your problem? I have almost the exact same setup as you and have been recently having the same problem with my opus not powering up. I've checked everything on my system and all connections seem fine. My system just wouldn't boot up, I would just un-hook the plug to the PSU and then try it later, that would usually work. I've never had to remove the fuse but I'll try that today. The past tow days though it hasn't really worked out. The only thing I can think of as another variable is that it's been getting colder out. My Batt should be fine too so I'm pretty sure it's not that.

    BTW, my ground is less than a foot away and I also have the computer case grounded at the same point with 12g wire so I don't think my ground is bad.

    Any other ideas or just a faulty PSU?

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanozic
    Hey Pyros, have you made any headway with your problem? I have almost the exact same setup as you and have been recently having the same problem with my opus not powering up. I've checked everything on my system and all connections seem fine. My system just wouldn't boot up, I would just un-hook the plug to the PSU and then try it later, that would usually work. I've never had to remove the fuse but I'll try that today. The past tow days though it hasn't really worked out. The only thing I can think of as another variable is that it's been getting colder out. My Batt should be fine too so I'm pretty sure it's not that.

    BTW, my ground is less than a foot away and I also have the computer case grounded at the same point with 12g wire so I don't think my ground is bad.

    Any other ideas or just a faulty PSU?
    I've noticed that if the PSU loses power completely for a split second, then it often has to be taken out and plugged back in. Perhaps bad connections or something your car is doing is causing this. Are you hard wired to the battery ??

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew230
    I've noticed that if the PSU loses power completely for a split second, then it often has to be taken out and plugged back in. Perhaps bad connections or something your car is doing is causing this. Are you hard wired to the battery ??
    Yeah, it's hardwired to the Batt with a 20amp fuse. The ground is less than a foot from the PSU.

    Update on behavoir: I went to my car today after work and saw that the unit was getting power. Status light on the OPUS was normal and my GPS mouse led light was flashing (it does this, i forget why exactly but it is normal). So when I go to start the car, car starts just like usuall but now the opus light is off and the gps light is off. System doesn't turn on. I unplug the opus, drive home (about 25 min drive) and plug the OPUS back in while the car is on. Status light is ok and system starts up normally. Turn car off and it shuts down. I just can't figure it out. It's almost like it just starts when it wants too. I'm going to get my batt tested and see if that is the culprit.

  5. #35
    Maximum Bitrate pyros's Avatar
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    I'm not 100% sure yet but I think the problem is with the fuse from the battery. I had the multimeter to it last week and noticed a voltage drop out of the blue. I replaced the fuse and haven't had any problems yet but I'll keep you updated. I really doubt that was the problem but if the fuse wasn't 100% (it was a cheap one that came with an amp wiring kit) and somehow managed to dip the voltage, the opus could be going into protection mode like we're seeing. I was using a 60 amp fuse and I dont think I'm pulling more then 30 amps tops. I've replaced it with a 40amp fuse (which hasn't blown with my 2 amps and comp running full) and I've been doing ok since. Really doesn't make much sense to me, but seems to work so far.

    Also, an alternative to removing the fuse on the opus is to remove the fuse from the battery, does the same thing. For me, taking out the fuse on the opus is a total ***** because my computer is mounted in-dash in a 1.5 din sized case I built. Its attached to a rail and screwed into a bracket designed for the OEM stereo. So to get to the fuse i have to take off my shifter bezel to get to the radio bezel, remove the radio bezel and disconnect my defogger/traction control/fog lights, then unscrew the case from the bracket, then pull it out. Such a pain in the arse.
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  6. #36
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    Hey guys,

    I've been having the exact same problems with the OPUS, and it's only been acting up during the colder nights here in Toronto... During the summer, no problems at all, so I suspect that it's the cold weather that is affecting the battery strength, making it dip lower than usual, which in turn will cause the OPUS to shut down... When you start the car and run it for 5 minutes, I took out the battery fuse and put it in again... works.... so it's obviously the battery that is dipping low... and I think it's because of the cold weather...
    One thing I'm gonna do to stop this is wire up a switch for the positive (+) wire to the OPUS... that way, when I turn the car off, I switch off the power to the OPUS completely that way it will not drain any power from the battery whatsoever.... also a good idea to "reset" the opus....

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaddSkillz
    I've been having the exact same problems with the OPUS, and it's only been acting up during the colder nights here in Toronto... During the summer, no problems at all, so I suspect that it's the cold weather that is affecting the battery strength, making it dip lower than usual, which in turn will cause the OPUS to shut down...
    Ah-ha, thats what I was thinking too. My problem also began when the weather started getting cold. I wish there was another way other than adding an external switch to remedy this problem, if infact the cold is whats causing it. Time to check opus manual...
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  8. #38
    Variable Bitrate The Grinch's Avatar
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    I've also been fighting with this for a while and it seems that the colder it gets, the more frequently it occurs. I'm at my witts end here. My battery is brand new and fully charged. The car always starts without a hitch. What I've noticed is that it has power, as in the green LED is flashing. But as soon as the PC tries to boot it dies. It happens in a split second, enough to make the CPU fan spin a little before it shuts off.

    I've taken my setup apart and I'm trying to trouble shoot, but so far I can't find a problem with any of my wiring.
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  9. #39
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    I wonder if the OPUS itself has issues dealing with the cold when trying to start. Like I've said before, my problem began when the weather started getting cold. The last two days have actually been pretty nice and I've had no issues with it starting up.

    Also, as a test, one really cold night I took my PC into the house instead of leaving it hooked up in the car. In the morning I brought it out to the car, hooked it back up and started the car. It booted up fine.

    Then on another cold night I left the PC in the car but unplugged the OPUS. The next moring I went out to the car, plugged it back up and started the car. I got nothing, system failed to start up so I unplug it again. About 15-20mins later, during my drive to work, I plug it in and it starts up. By this time the interior is much warmer and so is the PC case.

    Does this seem to make any sense?
    99 VW GTI VR6 SC
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  10. #40
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    It's not only the Opus but the mobo and h/d that you have to consider. The cold effects everything.
    P4 2.4GHz, Intel mobo w/onboard sound & video, 128MB memory, 100GB Seagate Momentus laptop drive, Xenarc 700TSV 7" touchscreen, IRman using Girder, 150W Opus dc/dc psu, Alpine CDA-9835 h/u, MBQuart speakers, Infinity 15" sub, MTX amps.

  11. #41
    Variable Bitrate The Grinch's Avatar
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    Trust me when I say that this is not an HD or MOBO problem.

    I'm on vacation this week and I decided to see why I could not get the PC to boot up for the past week. I monitored the voltage at the OPUS power connector and it was a solid 12volts while the car was not running. While running it was near 14volts. I next began disconnecting my devices one by one (USB devices for example) to see if there was too much current draw. After reconnecting the power connector I still got no response from the Green status LED. Finally I disconnect the ATX power connector from the PC, then plugged the power connector back into the OPUS. Like magic the Green LED began to flash like it's supposed to. Great... at least I can power it up for now. Why I needed to disconnect the ATX connector is beyond me, but I'm not complaining.

    Now read this:

    I ran the PC for about an 1 1/2 hours with music playing. My voltage slowly dropped to about 11.5 volts. I powered it down and back up a few times to make sure everything was ok. Then called it a night. This afternoon I went to my car to see if I could get it to boot up. The first thing I did was check my voltages. It was a touch lower than yesterday, just a tad shy of 11 volts (heck I ran it for 1 1/2 hours the night before without recharging). The next thing I noticed was that the status LED was blinking very slowly, about 3 seconds apart. It was flash about 3-4 times, and then stop flashing. Very odd. Then I heard something odd. A HISSING sound. The hiss lasted about 4 or 5 seconds, then would stop. Shortly after the status LED would start to flash again. It would flash 3 or 4 times (long pauses in between), then stop flashing, preceeded by a hissing sound. This hiss is very smooth and faint, and it's not something burning. It sounds like it's coming from near the power connector (but it's not the power connector itself). Very odd. I disconnected the ATX power connector in case that had something to do with it...but it still hissed. I tried to boot up the PC and it did boot up ok. My voltage dipped slightly to about 10.5 volts. So then I powered it down and then tried to boot up a second time. This time it did not boot, but the status light was blinking (with long pauses) and I still heard that hissing sound. Finally I started the car. My voltage dipped below 10 volts but the car did start. Once the car was running and the voltage increased the PC did boot. After that the OPUS no longer made that hissing sound. I guess that's a good thing.

    Anyhow, there are a few questions to be answered here. Why does the power supply tend to lock up after it's been sitting 4-10 hours? Why is it that I recently could not power up the PC for a week, even after disconnecting and reconnecting the power? Why is it that when my battery voltage dropped to around 10.5 volts it did not want to boot the PC? Isn't the OPUS is supposed to operate with voltages as low as 7.5 volts?
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  12. #42
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    If we had the answers, this thread wouldn't be as long as it is. I'm going to keep tracking it's behavior and see if I notice any patterns.
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  13. #43
    Variable Bitrate The Grinch's Avatar
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    The post I made above was pretty much the same contents of an email I sent to OPUS today. I also emailed my specs as well. Then replied and asked me to phone them back, so I did and talked to Chris.

    One of their comments was that I might be pushing the 12volts a little too much. Even though I only have a single 3.5" DVD Rom and a Lilliput 7" screen, it was suggested that the LCD might be too much. I explained that it's only 8 watts, but Chris commented that when the temperatures get cold these devices tend to draw more power. I can't see that being a big issue, but who knows. I'll try that option at a later time.

    The next suggestion was to pull the jumper from the opus. Basically this will disable the Stand-by capabilities and save on unnecessary power drains. This isn't a big deal for me since I only use hibernate. All I care is that it powers down after 10 seconds.

    The next suggestion was to ground the mother board (or computer case if it applies). So I agreed and connected a ground to one of the mounting screws on the motherboard.

    I was also asked to compair my voltage from my power connector and the battery terminals. If I see any variances in power (like .5 volts or more), that could point to a poor connection or insufficient guage wire for the application. Unfortunately my volt meter broke right before I spoke to Chris, so I could not check. Just my luck.

    In the end I've made two changes. I disabled the stand-by feature on the power supply and I grounded the motherboard to the car. I'll monitor this over the next couple of days and give my feedback.

    Future checklist items if the problem persists:
    - power the Lilliput from the egg instead of the OPUS.
    - beef up the power wire
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  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Grinch
    One of their comments was that I might be pushing the 12volts a little too much. Even though I only have a single 3.5" DVD Rom and a Lilliput 7" screen, it was suggested that the LCD might be too much. I explained that it's only 8 watts, but Chris commented that when the temperatures get cold these devices tend to draw more power. I can't see that being a big issue, but who knows. I'll try that option at a later time.
    My system also has the LCD hooked up to it, but I don't have DVD drive. I do however have a pcmcia NIC.
    Quote Originally Posted by The Grinch
    The next suggestion was to pull the jumper from the opus. Basically this will disable the Stand-by capabilities and save on unnecessary power drains. This isn't a big deal for me since I only use hibernate. All I care is that it powers down after 10 seconds.
    I also only use hibernate so I will try changing the jumper as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by The Grinch
    The next suggestion was to ground the mother board (or computer case if it applies). So I agreed and connected a ground to one of the mounting screws on the motherboard.
    I Actually already have my case grounded. The OPUS and the case ground at the same spot.
    Quote Originally Posted by The Grinch
    I was also asked to compair my voltage from my power connector and the battery terminals. If I see any variances in power (like .5 volts or more), that could point to a poor connection or insufficient guage wire for the application. Unfortunately my volt meter broke right before I spoke to Chris, so I could not check. Just my luck.
    Will also try checking the numbers, but my guage wire is pretty thick I think it's either 10 or 12.

    Today I had no problems, but I'm not convinced I've seen that last of this problem.

    Thanks btw, for sending your email and posting some suggested fixes. hopefully we'll figure this out.
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  15. #45
    Constant Bitrate leemik's Avatar
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    The battery theory might have some merit..

    My OPUS (90W) has always started fine but as the weather got colder, I also noticed some weird things.. As everyone is aware, there is a jumper that allows standby power to the system.. This means my USB devices stay on even though the system is "off".. well, I was noticing that lately the devices are totally off even in this mode..

    Then, last week, right after the 1st snow storm, my battery dies..

    So I went and bought a nice Optima yellow top and so far this week, nothing weird.. The car idles better and is more responsive to throttle, my headlights are BRIGHT now, the lilliput appears a little brighter, and my stereo sounds better too.. Best mod ever LOL

    I have a voltage guage in my car and sometimes the old stock battery dipped pretty low.. near 12V and fluctuated a lot.. I also have an xbox with a power inverter and the low voltage alarm would occasionally go off on the inverter..

    The new battery has yet to dip below 14V.. staying right around 14.4V most of the time.. I hope it holds up over time..

    --mike

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