Building proper circuit board.

[Arathranar]

As my planned tank circuit evolves, it becomes clearer and clearer I will need to build a proper regulator circuit. How does one go about making the circuit board? It's not something I've ever done before.

[more mods]

How about something like this?
PC Board Kit

And this
Dry-Etch Transfers

[EBJUSTIN]

If you don't mind spending a few bucks you can try:
PCBexpress.com
expresspcb.com
pcb123.com

These sites usually provide the design software for free. The software will actually tell you how much the PCB's cost depending on how many layers/ how much copper etc...

[Rob Withey]

Etching Your Own Circuit Boards?

The Press and Peel link is dead, here's a new one: http://www.techniks.com/

[Arathranar]

How about something like this?
PC Board Kit

And this
Dry-Etch Transfers

That looks the ticket. Hw do the dry etch stickers work? Are they used instead of the pen in the kit?

[ColdPhreze]

Arathranar, here is a few things they didn't tell you about making your own board (when etching it yourself):

1) It is a headache.
2) etching a board properly is a science. I have done it using several methods, and none of them work well enough for high-density, but for through-hole, you can make it work if you are patient and willing to do a few runs to get it right (in other words, your first few boards probably won't work).
3) The biggest headache, for me at least, was drilling all those holes! First off, you need a tiny bit. The smallest you can get for a drill is sometimes ok, but sometimes you have to get the really small ones and use a dremel. Lets say you have about 30 parts, thats going to likely be over 70 holes.

That all said, I recommend using a free program called Eagle www.cadsoft.de. It is pretty easy to learn, will automatically route all the traces for you from your schematic after you place the parts on the pcb layout, and does error checking. Once you have all that done, you generate cam files using the same program. Then goto www.freedfm.com and upload the files to check if they are ok to send to a production house (fix what they say needs to be fixed and resubmit until no errors are returned). Finally, I recommend you use www.barebonespcb.com to produce your prototype. It's the cheapest prototyping house I've found.

ColdPhreze

[momanz]

I actually designed and etched a TI PT5071 voltage regulator board with a laser printer, overhead transparency and a program called PCB (free on linux). I laid out the artwork in the program, printed it out on an overhead transperancy and then used a hot iron to transfer the pattern to the board. When you're done with the transfer you need to go over the pattern with a black permanent marker to make sure there aren't any gaps or holes in any of the lines. When you are happy with the pattern etch the board. I'd recommend a couple of simple trials before you commit your big board to the etchant...

good luck,

-momanz

[MatrixPC]

Iron transfer method . That is what I used. It works verywell and can make very fine trace. Basically from that article the real material that make it work is the paper. I bought the Staple paper UPC barcode is: 7 18103 02238 5 30 sheet for 10 bucks and it worth every penies.
I also use the cheap photo paper that Fry's electronic has 30 sheet for 1 buck (on sale regular 2.99) to make the top component layout.

- Draw the circuit using ExpressPCB. It's free but you can't print it straight out of the probram because there is black dot. I have to do printscreen of the layout and paste into graphic program to do touch up and print to size.
- Print or Xerox the layout to Staple paper.
- Use cloth iron and star ironing to copper clad board. The longer you do, the better and use a little force/press when ironing.
- Wait till the copper to cool then flush in warm running water.
- The paper will start to pell off. It's easier to soak in water for a long time (prefer overnight) and all the paper will pell off with little rub of the finger.
- Use EMK (found in homedepot paint section) to clean off the toner.
- Start drilling and

[ColdPhreze]

Yeah, I've done that too. I even bought special transfer paper that releases the toner easily in water and a laminator to properly and evenly melt the toner to the PCB. It works, but I prefer to stick to using the professionals - It's worth it I think, especially when you have 131 holes (not counting vias) in a 4 square inch board (2"x2"), two layer.

Like I said, I have done it before, but there are so many things to worry about, such as the temperature of the etchant, undercutting, trace integrity, copper oxidation (which happens pretty quickly and makes it difficult to solder to the board), and registration (lining up the top and bottom traces, holes, vias, etc.). Approximatly $50 to be rid of all those problems and have it done for you isn't so bad, especially if you have prototyped the schematic properly (you know your circuit works) and verified pin numbering on the parts to those used in the schematic (so that pin 1 on the pcb layout is pin 1 on the part). You are almost certain not to have any problems.

That's all my opinion anyway. Take it with a grain of salt

ColdPhreze

[kiltjim]

Finally, I recommend you use www.barebonespcb.com to produce your prototype. It's the cheapest prototyping house I've found.

First thats an awesome find. And they have a student discount!! I won't have to do that whole ironing thing, I can get one for $33!! That may be worth it, since I don't have a laser printer.