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Thread: Finding good ground to prevent Ground Loop

  1. #21
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    The statement I made "Granted, a spot weld can handle hugh amounts of current, but because it is a small juncture, it has a higher resistance" is correct in comparison to a solid piece of metal, or a a full length weld, which is what I was trying to state. Sure, it is a minute difference, but it is there. That also makes my other statement "the point being made is that due to spot welds, there is less electrical connection between body panels and chassis, therefore more resistance, therefore, higher chance for ground loop" correct, even though once again it is minute (extremely minute even).
    For the purposes of this discussion and the power levels we are talking the spot welding is a non-issue and is not the factor at play here.

    Futhermore,
    Say I'm wrong about the welds causing ground loop, fine. But don't mess with my point: using the frame is most likely better than the body.
    You do realize that just about all modern cars made today use a uni-body and as such don't have a 'frame'?

  2. #22
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    MrPerfectionest, if by uni-body, you mean the pressed steel piece of junk under most cars, I mentioned that in an earlier post. Please re-read. I stated the following:

    I also know newer vehicles (I meant stuff post classics) do not have a frame per say but actualy are pressed steel.

    I am, as most people do, using the word frame to generically refer to all chassis or support structure in a vehicle.

    So please stop nit picking. It does not negate that my point is still valid: mounting to the frame, whether it be real or a pressed steel uni-body or the chassis (whatever you want to call it) is a better option than the body.

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  3. #23
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    how do I do a voltage test?

  4. #24
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    Find 2 earth points, set your multimeter to mV (DC) and put one probe on one earth and the other probe on the other earth, chances are you will be able to read a voltage across the two earth points. This means they have different potentials, which can mean ground loop problems.

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  5. #25
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    okay.....when I do this do I have to disconnect the battery ? Or with the battery connected? In another words, if the reading is Zero volts then it's not as likely to have ground loop problems..right?
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  6. #26
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    Definately with the battery connected. You could also try with and without the engine running. It's not guaranteed to give no ground loop and I am not responsible in any way.......

    Prem
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  7. #27
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    MrPerfectionest, if by uni-body, you mean the pressed steel piece of junk under most cars, I mentioned that in an earlier post. Please re-read. I stated the following:
    It isn't under the car. IT IS THE CAR. You do understand what a uni-body is right? A uni-body replaces the frame from cars of yesteryear. There is no frame anymore. The body itself is the support structure for everything else.


    So please stop nit picking. It does not negate that my point is still valid: mounting to the frame, whether it be real or a pressed steel uni-body or the chassis (whatever you want to call it) is a better option than the body.
    It isn't nitpicking. You need to get your terminology right. There is no frame. There is nothing better you can affix a groud to in a modern car.

  8. #28
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    MrPerfectionest, I am compelled to point out something wrong with your last post, but I'm not going to. I'm not going to argue with you anymore, because that is all you seem to want to do. We both have said a few things that are slightly wrong. The difference is: this is my last post in this thread directed to you. This isn't worth wasting my time on anymore.

    ColdPhreze
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