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Thread: M1-atx??

  1. #41
    Raw Wave rando's Avatar
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    @rainmain: You'll have to buy/make the cable. The supplied cable doesn't have the 4 pin connector. Be aware that the supply is only rated at 2A max on the 12V rail. Typically a motherboard needs that extra connector because it wants more than 2A at 12V. There's no mention if the supply is has overload, short circuit, output overvoltage, or thermal protection ... tread cautiously.

    @Rundell: It's not the same as a valet switch. J8 is just a another copy of the motherboard on/off switch. The idea is that the PSU controls your motherboards power sequencing but with J8 you don't have to lose your case on/off switch. This could be useful in case your computer hangs during shutdown and you have the PSU configured with a long or infinite delay. You could hold down the power switch for 3-4 seconds (depending on your BIOS settings) and force it to turn off.

  2. #42
    Raw Wave rando's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grayscale
    i edited my post, but since i couldn't find it, maybe emailing them will get it for you

    edit: hah, now i have one more post than you!
    Yah, I found the stale ITPS links. Also, I sent them email this morning but so far, no response. I guess I could always pull the chip and check if the code protection is enabled or not ... I truly don't trust my home-made PIC burner enough to do this.

  3. #43
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    I'm not sure if code protection is turned on on mine or not. I would guess no because its an adavanced review moddle. I can email them and find out if it isgoing to be released or not. If I had a pic programer I could find out but my budget fors a programer right now would be about $25 and I don't know if I can get a decent one for that much or not.

  4. #44
    Raw Wave rando's Avatar
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    You can easily build one for less than $25. In any case, I did get a response from them and they're curious about the idea. Dunno what they'll decide yet.

    to be continued...

  5. #45
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    any links to where I might get one for that much? If so I will buy one and see if I can download the code from my chip.

  6. #46
    Clover Grayscale's Avatar
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    Yeah! I had no idea they are that cheap! Share the wealth of info my friend
    CarPC install is starting to come along again...

  7. #47
    Variable Bitrate drait's Avatar
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    @rando: Do you have any idea what the smaller 6-pin connector is for near the ATX connector on the M1? At first I thought of the 4-pin P4 connection, but after you mentioned the PSU isn't really designed for the high current draw of the P4s, it made me wonder if that's not for something else.

    Also, do you know how the anti-thump pins (J2) work? I tested both pins on that header and neither output any voltage. The docs just say to wire the J2 pins to the amp's remote turn-on, but that seems to do absolutely nothing. I'm currently switching the amps on via the ACC 12V line so they're only on with the key in.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by arise360
    Im using it right now with a 2400+m CPU, Biostar Nforce Mobo, 20 Gig Laptop HDD and it works great. Doesn't even get hot. my CPU uses 35W of power I dont know about the mobo. Hope this helps.

    your CPU is at normal clock?

  9. #49
    Raw Wave rando's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcker2000
    any links to where I might get one for that much? If so I will buy one and see if I can download the code from my chip.
    No, you'd have to build it. I can post a link to the schematic I used when i get home, if you want. IIRC, it was a simple Tait variant (search Google). You can easily get the parts you need at Radioshack. I wouldn't try to download the code from your chip though, especially not with a custom built PIC burner. There's a good chance you'll end up erasing your chip.

    Order a backup PIC to do your playing. iTuner sent me an 'older' version of the microcode. It appears to be documented well enough to be everything we need. I'm still waiting on my spare PICs to come before I play with it. Also, I wish I had the most recent code. I hate to reintroduce any bugs that might have been in the older firmware.

  10. #50
    Raw Wave rando's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drait
    @rando: Do you have any idea what the smaller 6-pin connector is for near the ATX connector on the M1? At first I thought of the 4-pin P4 connection, but after you mentioned the PSU isn't really designed for the high current draw of the P4s, it made me wonder if that's not for something else.

    Also, do you know how the anti-thump pins (J2) work? I tested both pins on that header and neither output any voltage. The docs just say to wire the J2 pins to the amp's remote turn-on, but that seems to do absolutely nothing. I'm currently switching the amps on via the ACC 12V line so they're only on with the key in.
    There isn't a 6-pin header. There is an 8-pin header. It provides 2 pins at +5V, 2 pins at +12V, and 4 GND pins. It's the same connector and wired the same as the Opus 8-pin accessory connector. I don't know where you can order the cable from -- I didn't see it listed at mini-box, or mp3car.

    I didn't test the amp turn-on wire and don't plan to use it. I'm fairly sure the intent is that you hook it strait to your AMP turn on wire (i.e. it provides a low current delayed 12V output).

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