Thread: Problems using Ituner when vehicle is running..HELP!!!!!!

If you are getting a little more voltage than is acceptable (My brother's gets 14.4v no problem) then you could try having a diode in place to provide a .7v drop. Or 2 for 1.4v drop. Of course this affects running the pc with the engine off too... If you need it working fast, this may work tho until you figure out just how you want to proceed.

It may be that you get a 12v regulator, or a diff. psu like the opus.

ColdPhreze

Originally Posted by ColdPhreze

If you are getting a little more voltage than is acceptable (My brother's gets 14.4v no problem) then you could try having a diode in place to provide a .7v drop. Or 2 for 1.4v drop. Of course this affects running the pc with the engine off too... If you need it working fast, this may work tho until you figure out just how you want to proceed.

It may be that you get a 12v regulator, or a diff. psu like the opus.

ColdPhreze

Hi ColdPhreze...

I did think about this...and I have diodes lying here.

I want to get this system working for the weekend...I'm on a road trip....and want to try Destanator with the speed cam POI.

I am sure that the Ituner has the option of cutting a track on the PCB...to allow for a higher voltage input...I'm just damned if I can find that info now!

I'm hoping someone else with an Ituner comes back to me...

I've heard the Opus has it's problems as well...long threads on the forum about the probs

Thanks so much for the reply!

vintageb3

Not sure if this will help, and if it doesn't feel free to call me an idiot, but my system would not power up once because of a bad usb port. The fan would move a little the the whole thing would stop booting.(actually it would't even start). The usb port was allowing stupid ol me to plug in a usb cable upside down, and I'm guessing I was shorting the whole thing out.

Lucky for me I didn't fry it. Also maybe try to ground your motherboard, I know sometimes amps just won't start because of a bad ground.

Found that link about cutting the track on the pcb!

Don't know if it is good option for me....I'm using a 3.5" hardrive at present.

Here's the link

http://www.mini-itx.com/store/information/car_mod.pdf

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

vintageb3

Directly from the app note:

DO NOT USE 3.5” and regular size CDROMs with this design! Full size drives use the 12V rail for motor spinup and require a stable 12V feed. Using 2.5” laptop drives will eliminate this problem, since they use only 5V. 2.5” drives have better shock ratings, we highly recommend using such drives for vehicle designs.

This mod will most likely fry your HDD.

Originally Posted by vintageb3

It looks like the fan actually moves a fraction….but the system won’t power up…

I have a gut feeling that it may be the fact that the board is looking for 12VDC…as is getting more voltage….after the engine is started.

I think I read something somewhere about cutting a track on the PCB…to allow for up to 16DC…but I can’t now lay my hands on this.

Anyone have a similar problem…and could point me in the right direction?

I had a similar problem, where the PW200M wouldn't stay powered on until the engine had warmed up. I wound up frying the psu trying to resolve the issue and getting the Opus 150 as a replacement, which works perfectly.

See if after 10-15 minutes of running the car, you can power up.

Here's my original thread Power issues in 03 Mustang

Originally Posted by MikeH

Directly from the app note:This mod will most likely fry your HDD.

Yup...I guessed that...so I'm not going to do this...going to try diodes tomorrow...

Thanks for pointing this ou though

vintageb3

[QUOTE=tj!2k4]I had a similar problem, where the PW200M wouldn't stay powered on until the engine had warmed up. I wound up frying the psu trying to resolve the issue and getting the Opus 150 as a replacement, which works perfectly.

See if after 10-15 minutes of running the car, you can power up.

---------

Actually...it seems to be working to a degree today...

I can power up the PC…and crank…and it survive the crank…most times…

Or if I play about long enough…I can power up after the van has been cranked…

Once it’s started…it hasn’t died yet…

Still gonna try the diodes though.

I have the PW-120-M now….going to see if I can get it to work first...before I spend anymore money…

I now have GPS problems..maybe related…but I don’t think so…

Thanks for the advice!

vintageb3

pw-200 is not a car PSU, even if it states "12V operation".
Look at M1-ATX (cheaper) http://www.mp3car.com/store/product_...products_id=67 or the Opus Solution PSUs. They both survive engine cranks and they can go up as 24V!

-A

[QUOTE=vintageb3]

Originally Posted by tj!2k4

I had a similar problem, where the PW200M wouldn't stay powered on until the engine had warmed up. I wound up frying the psu trying to resolve the issue and getting the Opus 150 as a replacement, which works perfectly.

See if after 10-15 minutes of running the car, you can power up.

---------

Actually...it seems to be working to a degree today...

I can power up the PC…and crank…and it survive the crank…most times…

Or if I play about long enough…I can power up after the van has been cranked…

Once it’s started…it hasn’t died yet…

Still gonna try the diodes though.

I have the PW-120-M now….going to see if I can get it to work first...before I spend anymore money…

I now have GPS problems..maybe related…but I don’t think so…

Thanks for the advice!

vintageb3