Thread: not enough power

The following assumes that you used sufficient gauge power wires (no less than 8 gauge for all that; 4gauge would be better), and scraped the paint off the metal until it was shiny whereever you connected to ground on the body.

Also, when you say the inverter is wired up to the ignition wire, do you mean that is where you are pulling your main +12 going into the inverter? If so that is a Bad idea. First, that wire is too small of a gauge, second, that circuit in the vehicle is not designed to carry that much current.

Options if it still does that and you have properly wired the inverter and amps:
1) you can add a second battery. But, is the power problem is really serious, do #2

2) upgrade your altenator.

However, DO NOT do either #1 or #2 unless FIRST you wire up that inverter directly to the battery using 8gauge wire. I am willing to bet that is your real problem...

KyferEz

Don't use stock wiring to run power to the comp! Especially if it's a low-amp circuit like the steering column!
However, if that's not the case, observe the following comments -

Does the "boof" happen while the car is running, or only when it's off? If while off, then you probably need a better battery (assuming the wires are up to snuff, as KyferEz suggested). If while on, well you may need a more powerful alternator, or (more likely) there is some other problem with your car... (ie: something is sucking a LOT of power)

What do you mean by "boof", exactly. Do fuses blow, or does the inverter just cut out ?

ok , im not entirely sure about the inverter's wiring, i paid an auto electrician to do it,i then removed the crappy guage wiring the sparky put there and replaced it with a 4 gauge wire, ran that to the boot (where the inverter is) and split it in two, one going to the amp, the other going to the inverter, but yes as you mentioned it is going from the steering column, i wasnt sure about getting everything to switch off when i took the key out so i asked the electrician to make sure it only came on when the key was in the ignition, from what you guys are saying, i think i might have to put a seporate switch and run another wire from the battery, or would a DA-DC PSU be whe way to go? or is that just a waste of money

oh, sorry, the "boof" is my over exagerated word for saying the PC suddenly turns off, like when you get a blackout at home, which i am guessing the inverter shuts down

the inverter's tech specs says it has a cut of switch or something that cuts power to the outlet after the input is less then 7.5 volts

#1 don't trust anyone other than yourself.

#2 don't use the same wire for the amp and comp. I don't think even a 4 guage would supply enough juice for two massively power-hungry components.
I personally run a 4 guage wire for the amp (dual 8" subs) and a 10 guage for the comp.

#3 the guy hooked it up so that it "only came on when the key was in the ignition". What did he do? Did he use a relay (small box which clicks when ignition is switched), or did he do something scary?

Originally Posted by PatO

#1 don't trust anyone other than yourself.

#2 don't use the same wire for the amp and comp. I don't think even a 4 guage would supply enough juice for two massively power-hungry components.
I personally run a 4 guage wire for the amp (dual 8" subs) and a 10 guage for the comp.

#3 the guy hooked it up so that it "only came on when the key was in the ignition". What did he do? Did he use a relay (small box which clicks when ignition is switched), or did he do something scary?

#1 gotcha

#2 done, 8 gauge for the amps is in and computer is direct off the battery with dash switch

#3 scary, thin, pathetic gauge wire off the ignition, theres not a relay, not even a wire joiner, just insulation tape!!! $#@%$#% is gonna have hell to pay when i get to his shop

Originally Posted by Phobos0001

#3 scary, thin, pathetic gauge wire off the ignition, theres not a relay, not even a wire joiner, just insulation tape!!! $#@%$#% is gonna have hell to pay when i get to his shop

Ermmm... Did he use that to power the comp, or did he use that to toggle the power on switch on the motherboard (via a relay or some other circuit). I'm not so much worried about the type of connection as what the connection was used for...

Edit: okay, no relay, but did that wire run to the + on the power supply? If yes, there's your problem - I'm not even sure how he got the sucker to power on in the first place!