M1-ATX and how I did it...

**Meta** · 02-19-2005, 01:53 PM

I just got my Morex 3688 case with M1-ATX power supply the other day and had to figure out how I was going to make all this work. For those just starting out and looking for ideas (or those experts who see immediate problems), this is what I did/am doing:

First, I'm keeping the factory Bose amplifier and speakers in the car (for now) and luckily they make a wiring harness so I can feed whatever I need into the factory setup without destroying anything (and I can put the head-unit back if I ever decide to sell the car).

Here's a picture for illustration purposes

I decided Molex connectors would make life easier. My M1-ATX power supply came with 3 input leads (12v battery, 12v switched/ignition , and ground). I just crimped these and made the Molex plug on the PC side and a corresponding plug on the "harness" side. I also modified the included 12v A/C adapter with a corresponding Molex plug so I could bring the PC in the house when/if I need to. (In the pic, the A/C adapter is powering the PC.)

Next, I knew that I wanted to power my Xenarc and USB DVD-ROM drive from the M1-ATX (instead of a direct 12v to the battery). I used a hard-drive Y-splitter from Radio Shack so I could plug 1 end into my internal hard drive. The other end of the Y-splitter, I cut off the hard-drive connector, fed the wires through an available hole in the case, and again used a Molex connector to give me both a 12v and 5v feed outside the case. (This is the "empty" Molex connector you see in the pic coming out of the case.) I then cut the "cigarette lighter adapter" part off the cable that came with my Xenarc and made a Molex plug so the Xenarc would feed power off the 12v output from the M1-ATX.

So far so good.

Next, I will cut the 5v input into my CD/DVD-ROM USB encloser, attach it to the same Molex plug as the Xenarc (using the 5v leads), and have both 12v and 5v power available to the dash area (with the PC in the trunk).

After that, using a stereo channel splitter that has the stereo "phone plug" on one end (plugs into the speaker-out on the PC) and right/left RCA connections on the other, again build a Molex connector to run audio leads (L+/-, R+/-) from the PC to the amplifier via the car harness.

Obviously the current wire runs are quite short. I'll need to make "extension cords" with the right Molex connectors on each end so I can actually attach things where they need to go.

Anyone run into problems or severe audio degradation using Molex connectors for the speaker connections?

**knubile** · 02-19-2005, 02:48 PM

Just a warning. I tried molex connector for my carnetix setup. They don't seem to hold a very good connection with the vibrations(from my car at least). My power kept cutting in and out.
I ended up using butt connectors. More pluggin and un plugging, but they stick like mad.
Keep updating with your results though.
I'm curious to see if it works out well, proving I'm just an idiot.

**rando** · 02-19-2005, 03:41 PM

I can't tell from the picture but I assume the Molex connector you have for your unregulated input power is a different shape/size that the one you're using for the regulated output? You woulnd't want to accidently get those two mixed up. Also, you may want to consider a rubber grommet or wire mesh where your wires pass through the case. You should consider some sort of cable management / wire protection at any spot that your wire insulation comes into contact with metal. The vibrations in your car can, over time, cause the insulation to wear off and produce a short.

**WebDog** · 02-19-2005, 05:41 PM

i just set up my M1-ATX and instead of using 2 molex connectors i used one bigger 9 pin molex so i got power going in / out and arent risking connecting it wrong. it also makes it neater under the dash/ where ever your mounting it.

**Meta** · 02-20-2005, 11:41 AM

Originally Posted by rando

I can't tell from the picture but I assume the Molex connector you have for your unregulated input power is a different shape/size that the one you're using for the regulated output? You woulnd't want to accidently get those two mixed up. Also, you may want to consider a rubber grommet or wire mesh where your wires pass through the case. You should consider some sort of cable management / wire protection at any spot that your wire insulation comes into contact with metal. The vibrations in your car can, over time, cause the insulation to wear off and produce a short.

Good idea on the rubber grommet or some other means to protect the wires coming out of the case. I hadn't considered the vibration possibly causing it to wear through. Thanks!!

As for the Molex connectors, I did plan for that. :-) I used the opposite gender connectors for power input/output to make it virtually impossible to plug it in the wrong way.

**rando** · 02-20-2005, 01:32 PM

You can get many good wiring ideas just by studying how the OEM wiring in your car is done.

1) Locking connectors (not friction based) at harness-harness and harness-device junctions.
2) Loom, mesh or grommets where wires pass through panels.
3) Wire bundles taped to wire guides to route wires and turn corners
4) Wires cut to correct length
5) Consistent (usually) color coding of wires
6) Circuits fused according to the wire size used.
7) All devices securely attached to vehicle.

**togaf** · 02-20-2005, 06:31 PM

Originally Posted by Meta

My M1-ATX power supply came with 3 input leads (12v battery, 12v switched/ignition , and ground). I just crimped these and made the Molex plug on the PC side and a corresponding plug on the "harness" side. I also modified the included 12v A/C adapter with a corresponding Molex plug so I could bring the PC in the house when/if I need to. (In the pic, the A/C adapter is powering the PC.)

I'm interested in a similar set up to bring my PC into the house. I take it you simply connected the +12V coming out of the A/C adaptor to both the 12v battery & 12v switched/ignition inputs on the M1-ATX?

Sam.

**Meta** · 02-20-2005, 08:27 PM

Originally Posted by togaf

I'm interested in a similar set up to bring my PC into the house. I take it you simply connected the +12V coming out of the A/C adaptor to both the 12v battery & 12v switched/ignition inputs on the M1-ATX?

Sam.

Almost. I wasn't brave enough to plug anything into the switched input on the M1-ATX because I didn't know what damage, if any, I might cause. (I'm pretty new to this stuff.) I just connected the 12v and ground from the A/C adapter, leaving the switched input disconnected. When I bring it into the house, I pull all the jumpers on the M1-ATX making it a dumb PSU.

I like your idea, as not having to pull the jumpers all the time would be one less step. I just don't know if it will work or not.

**Altimat** · 02-20-2005, 08:58 PM

Best plugs get these at a hobby shop.

**togaf** · 02-21-2005, 06:17 AM

Originally Posted by Meta

Almost. I wasn't brave enough to plug anything into the switched input on the M1-ATX because I didn't know what damage, if any, I might cause. (I'm pretty new to this stuff.) I just connected the 12v and ground from the A/C adapter, leaving the switched input disconnected. When I bring it into the house, I pull all the jumpers on the M1-ATX making it a dumb PSU.

I like your idea, as not having to pull the jumpers all the time would be one less step. I just don't know if it will work or not.

Can anyone else comment on this working???

I just got my 3688 case (MII-12K) and plan to purchase the M1-ATX soon. Are the jumpers easily got at by just taking the case lid off or is there more work involved? I recall the PSU is pritty tightly surronded with little finger room