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Thread: Keep computer on while powering car

  1. #11
    Stank Cheese n8scstm's Avatar
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    Careful plugging in any rechargeable device such as a shaver. Most rechargeable batteries will be fried by the modified sine wave inverter output. To bench test your system youll need a car battery or a battery charger that you can plug into the wall and output 12 volts. What I did with my system to survive cranking was install an aux battery with a battery isolator. Its expensive but very good.
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  2. #12
    Maximum Bitrate Vchat20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phatchink
    oops my bad, k so will it keep recharging the "little battery" as time passes?

    and wats the point of the diode? why shouldnt current travel from little battery to car battery?
    yes, it will keep rechargin the little battery. reason why the diode is needed is because without one, when cranking, the little battery will be using its juice to help start the car which scraps the whole tank circuit idea.
    Your everyday carpc geek and tech guru at your service. *bow*

  3. #13
    Variable Bitrate
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    About that diode, it should be a high current schottky with a big heatsink on it. To make it easier, you could just buy it all done for you. See the Tank EZ v1.0 on our website.

    KyferEz
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  4. #14
    Low Bitrate Bigassbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phatchink
    so my carputer works as follows

    Battery-->inverter-->computer. I control the computer's on and off through a extended switch over the side. The computer can be turned on without the car being on.

    Sometimes I want to make quick stops where i have to turn off my car, when I do that, the comptuer would still be on ( thats how I want it )
    but when i get back into the car and start it, the computer has to be restarted because of the startup voltage draw which takes away from my inverter causing it to turn off momentary and the computer would be off.

    Is there a device that can keep a little bit of power so my computer can survive the crank?
    I use the dual battery inverter setup, and it works great. I have a remote switch to the inverter and when I power it, my computer turns on. My next computer will have an opus type PS - I just can't use one with my current setup. Also if you do a search for tank circuit and surviving crank, you will find a lot of information.

    Hope this helps.

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  5. #15
    Variable Bitrate aguila's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KyferEz
    About that diode, it should be a high current schottky with a big heatsink on it. To make it easier, you could just buy it all done for you. See the Tank EZ v1.0 on our website.

    KyferEz
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  6. #16
    Variable Bitrate
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    We ship worldwide.

    As far as I know, we are the only manufacturer of any tank circuits.

    KyferEz
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigassbike
    I use the dual battery inverter setup, and it works great. I have a remote switch to the inverter and when I power it, my computer turns on. My next computer will have an opus type PS - I just can't use one with my current setup. Also if you do a search for tank circuit and surviving crank, you will find a lot of information.

    Hope this helps.

    YES that helps, and the romote switch is a really nice idea on the remote switch! I'm reading up on tank circuits as I type this !

    Quote Originally Posted by Vchat20
    yes, it will keep rechargin the little battery. reason why the diode is needed is because without one, when cranking, the little battery will be using its juice to help start the car which scraps the whole tank circuit idea.
    I just wished I paid more attention to Electronic Class in HS. Thanks for the info

    Quote Originally Posted by n8scstm
    Careful plugging in any rechargeable device such as a shaver. Most rechargeable batteries will be fried by the modified sine wave inverter output. To bench test your system youll need a car battery or a battery charger that you can plug into the wall and output 12 volts. What I did with my system to survive cranking was install an aux battery with a battery isolator. Its expensive but very good.
    really? but why?
    I'm actually planning to plug a small fridge in the trunk when I'm going on long trips, dont scare me now! (maybe even upgrade my battery to deep cycle from the money I saved from Opus!!! BAM!)

    Quote Originally Posted by Red GTi VR6
    pfft...that's not camping!

    that's staying at the hilton!
    bet you can make toasted marshmallow in there

    thanks guys, you all helped a lot, this really seems to be the best setup for me
    doing a quick ebay search I found this pocket bike battery what do you guys think? its $15 shipped
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...138862893&rd=1

    But the EZ 1.0 is really tempting too, since its around $20 also, is anyone currently using that setup? I'm leaning towerds the EZ 1.0 because they're about the same price anyways. What do you guys think?

  8. #18
    Stank Cheese n8scstm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phatchink
    really? but why?
    I'm actually planning to plug a small fridge in the trunk when I'm going on long trips, dont scare me now! (maybe even upgrade my battery to deep cycle from the money I saved from Opus!!! BAM!)
    The fridge will be fine, but takes a lot of power. But if your familiar with a sine waveform you'll know what I mean. Most inverters have a modified sine wave which is an approximation of a sine wave. There actually consists of small steps rather than a smooth curve. The corners of the steps are what causes the damage. Its basically dirty power. I have a gyration mouse and I wont charge it in my truck.
    2.4 celeron
    150 watt OPUS
    micro atx
    xp pro
    tv/radio tuner card
    audigy
    Dual monitor Radeon
    802.11G Mimo
    xm pcr
    dvd
    gps
    8" Lilliput touch screen
    IGuidance
    dual optimas
    battery isolator
    15" screen
    My Truck

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